fseva

I'm very disappointed in you, Bill... I thought of all the builders who would welcome a conversation with me, it would be you, because you seem to care about those who aren't "in the know", which I consider myself. And yet, you take the side of someone who had only done cruel things to me on this forum. Bill sent me a pm and we came to a better understanding. First of all, I appreciated the comments about the lack of accuracy in this kit so much that I have decided not to pursue the kit I saw on eBay. Secondly, somehow "locking" threads has gotten a bad rap, and I thought I was doing the forum a favor by closing down threads that I no longer wished to follow. Needless to say, I will not be doing that anymore.

Yes, it helps, but is there any other reason why to avoid this kit, other than it being inaccurate?

I would love to, but I found the 2+2 and need to decide whether to act on it or not...

Checked Google modelcarsmag.com, but could only find some stuff about a resin body. Any info regarding this kit would be welcome.

I read 2 reviews on Amazon, and they said that it takes closer to 15 minutes to set up, or that even after 10 minutes in clamps, the items being glued simply fell apart. Could you please add your experience as far as drying and clamping is concerned?

Wow - that hasn't happened to me yet... and I hope it never does!

Sorry, I didn't realize you had all that experience. Thanks for the clarification!

Steve, are you talking about Testors enamels? I have to ask because their current 2 lines of lacquers are so fast, they make my head swim!

Well, everything about "fisheyes" seems to be related to how the paint was applied or the condition of the surface. One time, I got fisheyes because I put too much clear on without letting it flash between coats.

That's true, and it was what I thought of first, but now, we have a responder who has stated that he has difficulty with their paint and other brands of lacquer thinner. Think I'll have to wait for a more rounded consensus of opinions on this one...

Actually, Jameston sells acrylic enamels. I would buy from MCW if ordering there was easier and more user-friendly. Painscratch.com has a very nice webstore, and you can look up model of cars, years and get a list of colors that were used for these. I like it and I don't like MCW's having to print out and order form and make out a check and send it in the mail. It discourages me from ordering when I really need something, because to make the process seem more worth the effort, I try to anticipate my needs and order for future projects. Well, that hasn't worked too well because of my changing favorite kits. Also, if you buy 1oz at Paintscratch.com, you add 1oz of thinner and you have enough material without having to worry about what you'd have to do if you ran out. And the cost is a lot more like MCW this way. Lastly, I like the Clearcoat Paintscratch.com sells. Have no idea what MCW sells and his price is way out of line.

I lock them myself, once I have enough info and don't want to keep track of them anymore...

I did a test yesterday, using all Duplicolor Exact Match products, to see if it would make a difference in the speed of curing. Exact Match Gray Primer, Exact Match Inferno Red, and finally Exact Match Clear. Today, I am really shocked to see how fast the product has dried, and while there is still a hint of odor, it feels fully cured to the touch. So, my problems with Duplicolor drying/curing (or in my case, NOT drying/curing as expected), may have come down to my choice of clear. The recommendation was made on this forum to use the clear that was manufactured to be used over the Exact Match paint line. I am very happy with the results and will be looking into using other colors from this product line.

I recently had a chance to paint a model using an acrylic lacquer custom mixed by Paintscratch.com. The thing that caught my attention about this product line was the fact that the mfr says you can NOT use thinner available at Home Depot, etc., that it has to be their Automotive Lacquer Thinner, or you could ruin the paint. Now, MCW has no such disclaimer, and neither does Bob's Paint, and both are acrylic lacquers. So, my question is, "Why the difference, and is Paintscratch.com pulling my leg, to get me to buy THEIR lacquer thinner? If not just a marketing method, what accounts for the difference in all of these acrylic lacquers to make one REQUIRE a special type of lacquer thinner? Also, how do I find and purchase the special lacquer thinner so that I don't need to buy 2 ounces at a time from Paintscratch.com?

"Gold" CA is manufactured by Bob Smith Industries, and he will take the name of the business he's selling to and imprint the product with the other parties' name. That's why it's so hard to identify - it could be available under dozens of names. Also, you want their Insta-Set accelerator, which is made to be used with the Gold CAs.

I'm going to have to try this! Thanks!

I have both, but do not like the Tamiya - for some reason, it does not seem to cut smoothly. I always wind up going back to the Trumpeter - it seems to give me less problems in the long run. As far as fineness of the groove, the heads are about the same thickness, so I would think that they are pretty close in this respect. This from the man who can't seem to do a panel line without a slip - take it for what it's worth...

There's no easy solution... you'll need to sand it down past the damage, and then bring back the shine through progressively finer grits.

I tried Plum Crazy recently, and was disappointed - seemed there was too much metal in it, and it lost some of that deep purple seen in Snake's photo...

Thanks for all the help, guys! My 70 Chevelle is now clad in Tamiya White Primer. Have no yellow on hand, so I will have to forego that for now. This project was an attempt to find out why I had so many problems with the rear bumper in my previous attempt. Sure enough, Revell placed small tabs behind where the front bumper was supposed to go, but did nothing on the rear. So, I added my own tabs and will have no problem with the rear bumper.

It's gorgeous! You're kidding? Why the yellow, and would it be a gloss or flat yellow... which yellow would you recommend?

Hey, I had completely forgotten that it can be shrunk to the size of the wire! Thanks for the reminder!

Thanks again, everybody! I'll be better prepared next time!

I really want this red to pop - would it make any difference which color of primer I use (white or gray)?

Does the sealer do as good a job in revealing areas that still need to be worked on? (as in invisible parting lines)