fseva

Yes, I hadn't thought of the molds...

Spaz Stix makes a Candy Blue in a 2oz bottle for airbrushing (I looked it up on Amazon, and they still have it. However, it looks like this company is in limbo - in the process of partnering with HRP - that may be why the "official webstore" has so few candys available right now).

What's a MY Lark? Is it related to a Skylark?

Except that Modelhaus has no real inventory - they make to order - which means that the only things being sold are the business-name and the instructions on how to make their parts and kits. That should not cost very much (comparatively). In fact, that could even be a reason why the business might not be put up for sale in the first place...

Charlie, if many more hobbyists do that, you may have to wait until 2017 to get the orders filled! And then, it might be too late for all of us! I wonder what their backlog is, since announcing their retirement???

And what did you think of the Lark kit? Was it a good, clean resin copy?

I would personally not use a clear as a primer - the color actually is helpful in seeing where you need more work sanding, etc. You could easily get a can of Model Master Lacquer Primer and not spend more than $5. If you already have the Krylon, I would suggest trying it on a plastic spoon before using it on your kit. If there is any crazing or any other damage, you'll know not to use it on your kit.

Well, we know that Modelhaus has announced that they will be retiring in 2017... What are the chances someone would buy the business and keep operating as usual?

Whoa - that makes more sense, and it's a load off my mind! Thanks! Thanks Richard!

Yes, it may be - tried Modelhaus and they don't have it...

Beautiful work, by the way! Your suggestion about using masking tape as a guide - that's great! I can see how that would help immensely! Thanks for your input!

I decided to check out MCW's selection of resin kits, and found what looks to be a rather rare Studebaker Lark! Now, chances are not good that anyone has built this specific model, but anyone who has built MCW, please give me your opinions... Thanks!

You had to trim the CHROME???

I was wondering about that - if a second run was released, it could have been somewhat worn, right? That could account for my difficulty with the kit...

Even though it changed scales in the process? Did it pick up the Baldwin license when the kit was rereleased in 2007 - not before?

I don't need a complete review, but I would like to know what kits of the same parentage came before this one. I've checked at eBay and the only one currently being offered is the Streetburner issue (this one). The reason I ask is that I just built this one a second time, and I had a hard time getting the bumpers to fit - the first time, which was several years ago, seemed to go much smoother and it's still in my display cabinet. Checked the bumpers and they looked like they dropped right into place. No excess glue or anything to indicate that the parts didn't fit well. I'm hoping that a previous release will be less of a problem with fitment.

I have just dumped my second Jimmy Flintstone body, and had a horrible time trying to get the corresponding kit's interior to work with it. Hacked it to death and it still wouldn't fit! So, now I'm starting to think that maybe an actual resin "kit" would be the thing to bring some new life to my modeling. What I really want to know is how good are they... really? Do they require a lot of preparation beyond normal flash removal to get them to work? Hope you can see where I'm going with this and that I've stated it clearly enough...

And this is the Coddington? Looks like the doors go all the way to the bottom, which is not the case with the other 32 fords mentioned here. I say it looks right on!

I looked again, and the first thing I noticed was that the door goes all the way to the bottom of the body (top of frame)...

Hey, Ace... just thought of something you probably would know about this particular "fix"... It looks to me as if the door is too short, and yet, it doesn't look as if he has attempted to rescribe the bottom line...

Excellent - that's exactly what I wanted to know! Thanks, Ace!

I just started my first top-chop, and I am having a hard time figuring out how to rescribe the doors since all of the lines were completely filled. The problem as I see it is trying to get a straight line using a metal ruler... I know it will not lay flat, but if I have to hold it in place while doing the scribe, I will surely lose hold and create a mess. Should I just draw a pencil line to start out, and follow that instead of a straight edge? (BTW, I have a Trumpeter scribing tool.)

Wow - since the copyrights would no doubt have expired by now, could you do some high-res scans and post the articles here? I'd be especially interested in the one on chopping tops...

I would start with a solvent that would normally not damage clear plastic - mineral spirits, I would think. Depending on what the tires were made of - if rubber, it should dissolve it, and just a bit of polishing should bring the piece up to snuff. If vinyl, I don't know...

Yes, I saw that one - it looks like it's been channeled. I'm really looking for info on whether or not I could use the BC body with my Revell 32 LE...