fseva

Here are two more kits I'd like to have a history on - I would like to determine if their tooling is old-school ('60s) or modern tech ('80s & up), so that I can start looking for them on ebay...

GTS Blue Pearl is a Model Master Lacquer in a rattle can - looks a lot like the photo someone posted here. I have used it and it really does look close...

Duplicolor Professional Lacquer

I had the same problem with Alclad Black - it did not give me a high gloss like I expected. However, I also tried SF Black gloss and flat, and I didn't like either of those because of poor coverage!

Apology accepted, and thanks!

I take it you didn't see that I was quoting "Steve L."? Not my technique - just offered it up because it seemed to be an appropriate time to do so...

I have a feeling that you don't know the difference between opinions and assumptions. Sorry I bothered...

I love your Creeper! Can you tell me what the colors are (seems to be 2 used on the hood)?

That is one very cool car!

ref: Little Motor Kar Co. Does anyone know their URL?

That Bonneville looks pretty good! Considering the fact that my Trumpeter kit was a disaster, I wonder if this kit would have been a better buy?

Here is an interesting alternative to applying Alclad that I found at the "other" magazine... Over time, I’ve spent money with ChromeTech and Little Motor Kar Company for chrome plating services, but there are often times when I want to use Alclad II to apply a chrome finish on some model car parts myself. In the past, because of a serious case of OCD, I have often been unhappy with the gloss or shine of my completed Alclad II chrome projects. Through trial and error and experimentation, I am now using an alternative process for applying an Alclad II chrome finish. I have long used automotive paint products for my model car projects and that is where I looked to try to improve my Alclad II results. I found that applying a three part base of Duplicolor automotive paints would give me the high gloss chrome finish I am looking for. I am sharing it with Y’All so you can also get better results with Alclad II chrome. I begin by ensuring that the items to be chromed are clean and ready for paint. The first step is to apply one medium coat of Duplicolor sandable black primer. After observing the dry time specified on the primer can, I apply one heavy wet coat of Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel Gloss Black, making sure that the paint is not so heavy as to cause a “paint run.” After allowing the gloss black to dry in accordance with the instructions on the can, I apply one heavy wet coat of Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel Gloss clear, also making sure that it, too, is not too heavy. Once the gloss has dried in line with the instructions on the can, I have created a very glossy base for the Alclad II chrome finish. I most often let the parts dry at least for a day or two before I apply the Alclad II chrome. I use a Paasche VL double action air brush with #3 tips and needle at 12 PSI. I apply a light coat or coats of Alclad II Chrome, in accordance with commonly accepted practices, making sure that I don’t apply too much of the Alclad II product. Try this and I think you’ll like it! (Note: Automotive paint products like Duplicolor are often more expensive than other paints I use. I frequently shop prices at the local automotive parts stores and most often buy at the places that provide the military discount I am eligible for. A few local automotive parts stores will sometimes run sales on the Duplicolor paints. I have not yet attempted to buy what I need online, but that may be a good alternative to get discounted prices. Another Note: Along the way, you will undoubtedly notice that the Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel clear provides a very high gloss shine. Yes, you CAN also use it on your model car paint jobs. Two mist coats and two wet coats of clear (applied in accordance with the can instructions), followed by careful polishing can provide a near-show quality finish for your model cars. Experiment with it and I think you’ll like it!) Written by Steve L.

Yes - alchemy - it turns gold paint into real chrome!

It's available at Amazon - just found it this am... BTW, it's not called Castrol Super Clean any more - just Super Clean. Purple Power came up in the same thread.

Hmmm... I have used Scalecoat, and their paint is kinda wierd. I would not be surprised if their remover doesn't work all that well on other paints...

I have a feeling that you're using a dish detergent that has something in it to protect your hands! Same thing they do in 70% alcohol - they put in something to take the edge off the alcohol when using it for rub-downs. If you look for a detergent that has no extra ingredients, you may find that it will do the job. However, I was reading a back issue yesterday and there was an article on resin kits and preparing them for paint. Granted, the article was from about 10 years ago, but I imagine the problems are still the same. Anywho... the writer said that you should clean with lacquer thinner, then with mineral spirits, then with detergent and warm water. I'm sure he was trying to cover all the bases!

Bob's Paint is advertising a chrome plating service called Kustom Khrome (I've never used them, though)... https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bobs-Paint-etc/335668269977149

This is just a question asked out of curiosity - it has nothing to do with the main topic - but I've been comparing the box cover art for the Street Rod and the Standard Coupe, and... doesn't the street rod's top look just a bit chopped?

Thanks for the info, Bill! I can see I'm going to have to start looking for this kit on eBay!

Believe it or not, I have that issue and I must have paid more attention to the channeling because I didn't even remember it was a '34 Ford! Thanks for the info!

I've had a problem with decals for about as long as I can remember - after using Micro-Sol (or some other solvent), there seem to be rather permanent "stains" on the decals! I've tried just a little water on a q-tip, but that did not permanently remove the stains. I have found the best solution is a coat of clear, but on my current project, I would have to do a whole lot of taping to protect areas that should not be covered with clear (windows, etc.). I would like to avoid this extra work and ask if there is any product I could apply with my fingers, and then remove with a dry cloth? 2 things I have at my disposal are Tamiya Wax and Carnauba Wax. Would either of these hide the stains? Anything else if these aren't recommended?

BTW, if you're going to vent this thing, you're NOT going to have it pointing at your face!

Boy, everyone just seems to be over the moon about this booth... Personally, it's significantly underpowered, and because it's all plastic, the maker does not recommend its use with lacquers, or any other paint that could melt plastic. I used it with lacquers and had no more problems than with acrylics, except perhaps that the paint seemed to just fuse to the plastic and became a horrible looking mess in very short order. Mine also had a retractable cord, but that wound up breaking quite early on, as well. I had a Badger booth, and was very happy with it, but got interested in the plastic one because it was "portable". I really hated having to collapse those plastic panels to close up the unit, especially when it had become caked with paint. When it was time to start considering a replacement for the Badger after many years of use, I decided on an Artograph 1520, and I've been very happy with it. Compared to the plastic portable... well, it's like comparing a hoover electric to a battery-powered vacuum cleaner. I'm proud to say that my new Artograph "Really sucks!"

Need to know some history of this kit... when was it originally kitted up... how did this version live up to previous releases (aka looks like it was made off a worn-out master)? (This kit is available at Model Roundup, and seems to be a nice alternative to all the 32s out there).

Well, that's exactly what mine look like, too! I suppose the difference between these and the "jumbos" is simply a matter of size - the larger lettering just looks brighter. Oh well, I can always go back to the Blue Streak slicks. Thanks for the info!