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Jantrix

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Everything posted by Jantrix

  1. Peking to Paris Rally CBP

    Looking good Brian.
  2. Peking to Paris Rally CBP

    Welcome to the Peking to Paris Model Car Rally Community Build. It will begin November 1, 2018 and conclude on July 7th, 2019, which is the last day of the actual rally. Unlike the Cannonball CBP’s there will be no poll, no winner, no losers. This is a race of gentlemen. We will use the same build rules that the actual racers use. I have outlined them below. Please read the rules in their entirety before you post your build as rules change depending on the choice of car. This is a smart man’s race. The person that plans well and drives well, wins. Torque will win over horsepower. Gas mileage will be a concern. Weight, the ability to handle rough roads, water, weather, mud will all be factors. It’s hard to imagine a race were a ’40 Ford with a flattie beats a ’70 Hemi Cuda, but this is the one, I assure you. Only cars of a model type in production prior to 1975 will be eligible. The Organizers may accept cars manufactured after 1975 provided they are a series evolution of the pre-1975 model and do not feature any performance advantage over the original model. Basically said- if a '76 is mechanically the same as a '75, it is good to go. They must be of a type designed to carry passengers with either a saloon or sports bodywork. Estate cars (station wagons) are not acceptable. Commercial or military vehicles such as light trucks, vans, ambulances, pick-ups and utility 4x4 vehicles are not eligible. Cars not capable of sustaining a constant speed of at least 80 kph (50 mph) on a level surface will not be eligible to enter. Entries will be accepted in the following Categories: the Vintageant Category - Cars of a model type in production from 1920 to 1941 the Classic Category - Cars of a model type in production prior to 1975 The following modifications to the cars are NOT permitted: - No conversion of live axle to independent suspension. - No coil springs replacing leaf springs. - No shock absorbers with separate reservoirs. - No changing of the engine make or configuration. Configuration means the engine must be set up just the way it could have been in 19XX but not necessarily stock. If aftermarket speed equipment A and B was available then, it should be good to go. Basically you are restricted to the technology of the year of the car you are driving. - No fuel injection, unless available as original equipment (a standard-showroom production item of the model entered). - No limited slip or torque biasing differential, unless available as original equipment. - No disc brakes on cars in the Vintageant Category. - No engine management systems or crank sensors. - No conversion to rack and pinion or power steering. With this in mind, a small steering wheel might look grand, but in practice would be detrimental to handling. - No body panels of alternative composite materials. No fiberglass or carbon fiber. -No wheel design (or material) that was unavailable when the car was in production. Roof racks are permitted provided they meet the following specification: - They must be of a design available at the time the car was in production - They must be made of metal - They must be no longer or wider than the roof panel - They must have sides no higher than 45 cm (18 inches) - the roof rack and spare wheels must not be covered Trunk racks - must appear period correct. All other modifications are permitted. Note: Not all cars were built to take the punishment this rally can dish out. So think about ways to strengthen the vehicle within the rules and without adding a ton of weight. Spliting wishbones, adding shocks, adding an x-frame if your chassis doesn't come with one, add a panhard bar, add gussets where appropriate, etc, etc. Spares There will no limit to the quantity or the range of spares that can be carried in the car but trailers are not permitted. Safety Equipment - Seat Belts: It is strongly recommended that all cars in the Vintageant Category have seat belts fitted and used at all times. Cars in the Classic Category must have full harness seat belts fitted and these must be used at all times. - Rollover Bars: It is strongly recommended that all cars have a roll bar fitted. the minimum requirement being a single hoop and two back stays. - Fire and liquid proof bulkheads separating the passenger compartment from the engine and fuel tank are strongly recommended. - A fire extinguisher of at least 1.75 liters must be securely fitted and within easy reach within the car. - All cars must have mud flaps fitted to all four wheel arches. - All cars must be fitted with a laminated windscreen or aero-screens Two metal rally plates must be fixed to the front and rear of the car in a clearly visible position, but not obscuring the car license plates. The rally plates are the image above. If we have a good decal printer among us, perhaps they would volunteer to do some decals for us. If not, I recommend printing them on good photo paper rather than a decal. In addition, racing numbers on the doors, for each side of the car must be visible. Numbers are first come first served. So when you announce your build, announce whatever number you want. 1 to 99 please. If you use decals like I do, remember a 43 decal can be a 34, a 3 or a 4. A 6 can be a 9. Be creative so that you don’t replicate someone else’s number. I realize that the actual 1:1 cars have magnetic numbers issued. A number in a light or dark circle depending on body color. If you have the ability to do generate a decal of that, rock on. If not, throwing the Intimidators number 3 on there is permissible. Other Items as outlined in section 9.2 of the P2P Regs, such as tents, sleeping bags, first aid kit, spare tires, tow ropes are not required because they could simply be in a closed trunk, but adding them to the build in some way (backseat?) would be very cool. Some useful links. http://www.endurorally.com/ http://peking2paris2013.com/car/ this will show you a lot of modifications that can be done and still be within the rules. Lastly, a Peking to Paris racer Google image search is highly recommended. This will show you what has been raced in the past. There is a team of guys that drive '37 - '39 Chevys and do well every year. As we get into June, I'm going to try to find media from the actual rally and incorporate it into this thread to get us re-motivated to finishing the models. There will be plenty of questions from prospective builders. Let'em fly, I'll answer as best I can. P2P 2016 Regs FINAL.pdf CAR Preparation Guide.Peking to Paris 2019.pdf
  3. Monogram 66 Malibu Street Rat

    Thanks very much.
  4. Monogram 66 Malibu Street Rat

    I'd love to get my hands on this old favorite from childhood. The red one if possible but I'll take either when it comes right down to it. I have kits to trade. I'd consider a build up thats not in bad shape.
  5. "SHINER" - Ford 1940 in Peking to Paris 2013

    I posted the Shiner to inspire everyone when we started the Peking to Paris community build. It is a terrific car. I like what you are doing here.
  6. Here we are again folks, at the start of a brand new year and of our 12th (!!!) Cannonball Run Community Build Project. I continue to be impressed by the dedication of our builders, year after year. Our theme this year is VANS! Your build must feature a vehicle that is a van or a panel truck. It must be built as a vehicle that could race from coast to coast. Please note: a sedan delivery is NOT the same thing as a panel truck. A sedan delivery is based on a passenger car body/chassis and a panel truck is based upon a pick-up truck body/chassis. Many kits that are not vans, call themselves vans on the box. That will not make them allowable. Please do your research on the kit you choose. Also, the cargo area and the cab are usually the same space in a van, though the partial bulkhead behind the seats of a step van doesn’t disqualify it as a van. The body is all one piece. A truck with a topper doesn’t qualify. However, if you were to seamlessly mold the topper to the cab and bed, and make them one space inside, you would have effectively created a phantom panel truck, which would be legal, assuming it is a full size truck. Please don’t try this with a little Chevy Luv, topper or not, no one would call that a van. Now his might seem like a very limited field of available kits. It is, until you factor in the aftermarket (resin) like Jimmy Flintstones ’66 Chevy panel truck, show rods like the Vandal (though the Vandal will need some tweaking to be legal) and the Baja Beast, and the myriad offerings from Aoshima, Fujimi, Hasegawa and Italeri. The rules: - Your build must feature a vehicle that is a van or a panel truck. It must be built as a vehicle that could race from coast to coast. - The build can be either a new or started kit up to 25% complete. A rebuilder or parts box special is okay too. 1/24 or 1/25. If you absolutely must do a 1/20 model we’ll likely bend the rules as we have before, but that’s the limit. - If you have a previously started racer from a previous running of the Cannonball (SA or MCM) 50% complete or less, they are eligible to run this year as long as they meet the theme requirement. All of our previous runs are still available on either of the two forums. If you are going to do this, please be certain it was involved in a previous run. - Before starting please post a photo of your kit(s) or pile o’ parts. No limitation on technology used. - Note: vans are not the best for displaying engine work. Unlike previous runs, a kit without an engine, like some Asian kits tend to be, is permissible. - The car must appear to be street legal. Headlights, tail lights, license plate etc. Optional - Just like we did for the Brock Yates Memorial Run, a couple years back, if you’d like to add some sort of detail to your build to honor the late Burt Reynolds that would be a cool idea. As always, have fun and watch out for two priests in a red Ferrari. That’s it for rules. The following is just FYI. - You may start a separate build thread for your build if you wish, but please keep the CBP thread updated. Your work will help inspire others. - The car can be as eye catching or non-descript as you wish. Bright colors and/or racing livery will make you more noticeable to local law enforcement, but that’s your problem. - Build time begins on January 1st, 2019, local time and ends at 11:59PM on December 1st, 2019, local time. That’s 11 months folks. - After the finish, we will create a poll and we’ll have the “race”, a public vote. - A few weeks prior I’ll start a completed builds thread, for posting up your work and we’ll work the poll from that thread. Take some GOOD PHOTOS! I cannot emphasize this enough, good photos are essential. No one has won this with crappy photos in poor lighting. - You may build as many models as you wish for this CBP but only one can be entered in the public voting poll after Dec. 2. - You can enter this CBP at any time up to 48 hours before the end date.
  7. 1932 Ford model subject

    That's the really weird part. Although with that fuel setup, it was probably kinda dangerous anyway. A little too close to the exhaust for my liking. Neat looking car though. Very cool.
  8. Very nice work. Right up my alley.
  9. 1957 Chevy

    Wow. What a combination of styles. The greyed out chrome is very contemporary, yet the body color is very 50's. The wheels and front seats say 70's, but it all works very nicely together. Real nice work. What kit did the front seats come from?
  10. 33/36 Ford Coupe

    A tremendous hot rod. I dig it.
  11. 71 duster 340

    I agree. This is you best effort to date. If you wouldn't mind some advice, the best way to improve your work tomorrow is to get a pair of flush cut diagonal cutters (less than $5 at Harbor Freight) and a set of sanding sticks (pretty inexpensive, in the nail care section of any beauty supply store). The reason I say this is because it's clear from your chrome wheels that you are twisting parts off the sprues. Use the flush cutter to cut them free and then the sanding sticks to sand the nubs left on the part. You will find that everything will fit 100% better every time.
  12. 2 tone 57 Ford Custom

    Since Revell launched their '57 Ford line of kits, there have been no shortage of them on this forum. Yours is one of the nicest builds I've seen. Great details without overdoing it. Very authentic looking. Great model.
  13. Peking to Paris Rally CBP

    Folks, the real Peking to Paris Rally has begun on June 2. Check out the content here. https://www.endurorally.com/events/the-7th-peking-to-paris-motor-challenge/ If anyone finds any television coverage please let us know.
  14. BBS Center Lock Wheels

    As it turns out, BBS makes a heck of a lot of them. Can you be more specific? Like a photo perhaps?
  15. Peking to Paris Rally CBP

    Dennis, as a whole the Tiger looks terrific. Spot on captures the P2P racer. But the exhaust is very low. Remember that 1mm = 1scale inch. Using that, your exhaust seems like it's nearly a foot or more, lower than the frame of the car. This is an off road race. I don't think those pipes would last long.
  16. 2019 CBR - the Vannonball Run!

    Very happy to hear this. Carry on my friends.
  17. 1970 corvette stingray

    Very nice work.
  18. Revell 2019

    I quite agree. No matter what anyone says the AMT 318/340 looks small to me. I hope this one is better. I'd like to see the resin casters come up with a variety of intake options as well.
  19. 2019 CBR - the Vannonball Run!

    Guys I really have to apologize for being an absentee moderator for this build off. Things have been so busy on the farm lately that I haven't touched my model bench in a month or more. I'm usually much better at staying engaged and keeping people motivated and interested. It's just a bad year for modeling on the Mattis homestead. Also, I'm thinking that despite all the initial interest, the van theme has not been popular. From now on we'll decide the theme like we have the last few years, rather than making an executive decision. My apologies.
  20. Peking to Paris Rally CBP

    Guys I really have to apologize for being an absentee moderator for this build off. Things have been so busy on the farm lately that I haven't touched my model bench in a month or more. I'm usually much better at staying engaged and keeping people motivated and interested. It's just a bad year for modeling on the Mattis homestead.
  21. Belly Tanker

    Good stuff. thanks for posting.
  22. Automotive Album Art

    This was a favorite growing up. Each song actually had engine sounds from famous hot rods and dragsters.
  23. 1/18 hot rod style headlights

    Happy to help. I'm curious to see if it works out.
  24. 300 SLR paint

    Decals need a smooth surface to stick well. Flat paints are not smooth enough. Most folks will tell you to use a gloss clear over the flat paint, then decal, and then use a dull clear over the gloss paint/decals if that is the finish you are looking for. A gloss paint, shouldn't have much problem.
  25. 1/18 hot rod style headlights

    In millimeters, what would be the diameter of the light you are looking for? The reason I ask, is that many of the 1/24 Monogram Duesenbergs, Packards and Mercedes have what we would consider oversized headlights. Perhaps they would be big enough to pass for a hot rod headlight in 1/18? Just an idea.