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Jantrix

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Everything posted by Jantrix

  1. Gundam

    I've been surprised how popular they are. Adding these kits (and other sci-fi stuff) and the gear to build them has rescued a local, independant, Clearwater hobby shop from the edge of solvency. They are doing quite well now. My son builds them. I might give it a try here soon as well.
  2. 70 Cuda Pro Mod

    You never disappoint Wayne. Looking good.
  3. Here we are again folks, at the start of a brand new year and of our 12th (!!!) Cannonball Run Community Build Project. I continue to be impressed by the dedication of our builders, year after year. Our theme this year is VANS! Your build must feature a vehicle that is a van or a panel truck. It must be built as a vehicle that could race from coast to coast. Please note: a sedan delivery is NOT the same thing as a panel truck. A sedan delivery is based on a passenger car body/chassis and a panel truck is based upon a pick-up truck body/chassis. Many kits that are not vans, call themselves vans on the box. That will not make them allowable. Please do your research on the kit you choose. Also, the cargo area and the cab are usually the same space in a van, though the partial bulkhead behind the seats of a step van doesn’t disqualify it as a van. The body is all one piece. A truck with a topper doesn’t qualify. However, if you were to seamlessly mold the topper to the cab and bed, and make them one space inside, you would have effectively created a phantom panel truck, which would be legal, assuming it is a full size truck. Please don’t try this with a little Chevy Luv, topper or not, no one would call that a van. Now his might seem like a very limited field of available kits. It is, until you factor in the aftermarket (resin) like Jimmy Flintstones ’66 Chevy panel truck, show rods like the Vandal (though the Vandal will need some tweaking to be legal) and the Baja Beast, and the myriad offerings from Aoshima, Fujimi, Hasegawa and Italeri. The rules: - Your build must feature a vehicle that is a van or a panel truck. It must be built as a vehicle that could race from coast to coast. - The build can be either a new or started kit up to 25% complete. A rebuilder or parts box special is okay too. 1/24 or 1/25. If you absolutely must do a 1/20 model we’ll likely bend the rules as we have before, but that’s the limit. - If you have a previously started racer from a previous running of the Cannonball (SA or MCM) 50% complete or less, they are eligible to run this year as long as they meet the theme requirement. All of our previous runs are still available on either of the two forums. If you are going to do this, please be certain it was involved in a previous run. - Before starting please post a photo of your kit(s) or pile o’ parts. No limitation on technology used. - Note: vans are not the best for displaying engine work. Unlike previous runs, a kit without an engine, like some Asian kits tend to be, is permissible. - The car must appear to be street legal. Headlights, tail lights, license plate etc. Optional - Just like we did for the Brock Yates Memorial Run, a couple years back, if you’d like to add some sort of detail to your build to honor the late Burt Reynolds that would be a cool idea. As always, have fun and watch out for two priests in a red Ferrari. That’s it for rules. The following is just FYI. - You may start a separate build thread for your build if you wish, but please keep the CBP thread updated. Your work will help inspire others. - The car can be as eye catching or non-descript as you wish. Bright colors and/or racing livery will make you more noticeable to local law enforcement, but that’s your problem. - Build time begins on January 1st, 2019, local time and ends at 11:59PM on December 1st, 2019, local time. That’s 11 months folks. - After the finish, we will create a poll and we’ll have the “race”, a public vote. - A few weeks prior I’ll start a completed builds thread, for posting up your work and we’ll work the poll from that thread. Take some GOOD PHOTOS! I cannot emphasize this enough, good photos are essential. No one has won this with crappy photos in poor lighting. - You may build as many models as you wish for this CBP but only one can be entered in the public voting poll after Dec. 2. - You can enter this CBP at any time up to 48 hours before the end date.
  4. GSL room rate code?

    Yeah. That's what I thought too. I'll give them a call again.
  5. GSL room rate code?

    Anyone have the code needed to get the reduced room rate at the Sheraton for GSL? I've emailed Mark G. a few days ago but no reply yet, and I'd like to get my reservation finished.
  6. 2019 CBR - the Vannonball Run!

    Anyone going to GSL in Salt Lake this May? I'd like to shake hands with you guys after so many years.
  7. AMC Pacer X

    I like it!
  8. Revell '37 Ford

    Neither is this engine. Small Block Chevy.
  9. Just for fun 48 Ford

    I bought the same kit and will build it the same way. When Grease came out that car made an impression on the 10 year old Rob. Very nicely done.
  10. Building a spray booth

    Before you try the shop vac, please read this. Listen, budget or no, don't halfass this. Odds are you will be venting flammable gasses so your safety is paramount. Stick a couple of bucks in a cookie jar every week until you have enough for a squirrel cage style exhaust fan. The motor is outide the air flow and is very safe in this application.
  11. 1932 Ford 5 Window Coupe

    Very nice work Rich. I love the baby moons.
  12. Peking to Paris Rally CBP

    Welcome to the Peking to Paris Model Car Rally Community Build. It will begin November 1, 2018 and conclude on July 7th, 2019, which is the last day of the actual rally. Unlike the Cannonball CBP’s there will be no poll, no winner, no losers. This is a race of gentlemen. We will use the same build rules that the actual racers use. I have outlined them below. Please read the rules in their entirety before you post your build as rules change depending on the choice of car. This is a smart man’s race. The person that plans well and drives well, wins. Torque will win over horsepower. Gas mileage will be a concern. Weight, the ability to handle rough roads, water, weather, mud will all be factors. It’s hard to imagine a race were a ’40 Ford with a flattie beats a ’70 Hemi Cuda, but this is the one, I assure you. Only cars of a model type in production prior to 1975 will be eligible. The Organizers may accept cars manufactured after 1975 provided they are a series evolution of the pre-1975 model and do not feature any performance advantage over the original model. Basically said- if a '76 is mechanically the same as a '75, it is good to go. They must be of a type designed to carry passengers with either a saloon or sports bodywork. Estate cars (station wagons) are not acceptable. Commercial or military vehicles such as light trucks, vans, ambulances, pick-ups and utility 4x4 vehicles are not eligible. Cars not capable of sustaining a constant speed of at least 80 kph (50 mph) on a level surface will not be eligible to enter. Entries will be accepted in the following Categories: the Vintageant Category - Cars of a model type in production from 1920 to 1941 the Classic Category - Cars of a model type in production prior to 1975 The following modifications to the cars are NOT permitted: - No conversion of live axle to independent suspension. - No coil springs replacing leaf springs. - No shock absorbers with separate reservoirs. - No changing of the engine make or configuration. Configuration means the engine must be set up just the way it could have been in 19XX but not necessarily stock. If aftermarket speed equipment A and B was available then, it should be good to go. Basically you are restricted to the technology of the year of the car you are driving. - No fuel injection, unless available as original equipment (a standard-showroom production item of the model entered). - No limited slip or torque biasing differential, unless available as original equipment. - No disc brakes on cars in the Vintageant Category. - No engine management systems or crank sensors. - No conversion to rack and pinion or power steering. With this in mind, a small steering wheel might look grand, but in practice would be detrimental to handling. - No body panels of alternative composite materials. No fiberglass or carbon fiber. -No wheel design (or material) that was unavailable when the car was in production. Roof racks are permitted provided they meet the following specification: - They must be of a design available at the time the car was in production - They must be made of metal - They must be no longer or wider than the roof panel - They must have sides no higher than 45 cm (18 inches) - the roof rack and spare wheels must not be covered Trunk racks - must appear period correct. All other modifications are permitted. Note: Not all cars were built to take the punishment this rally can dish out. So think about ways to strengthen the vehicle within the rules and without adding a ton of weight. Spliting wishbones, adding shocks, adding an x-frame if your chassis doesn't come with one, add a panhard bar, add gussets where appropriate, etc, etc. Spares There will no limit to the quantity or the range of spares that can be carried in the car but trailers are not permitted. Safety Equipment - Seat Belts: It is strongly recommended that all cars in the Vintageant Category have seat belts fitted and used at all times. Cars in the Classic Category must have full harness seat belts fitted and these must be used at all times. - Rollover Bars: It is strongly recommended that all cars have a roll bar fitted. the minimum requirement being a single hoop and two back stays. - Fire and liquid proof bulkheads separating the passenger compartment from the engine and fuel tank are strongly recommended. - A fire extinguisher of at least 1.75 liters must be securely fitted and within easy reach within the car. - All cars must have mud flaps fitted to all four wheel arches. - All cars must be fitted with a laminated windscreen or aero-screens Two metal rally plates must be fixed to the front and rear of the car in a clearly visible position, but not obscuring the car license plates. The rally plates are the image above. If we have a good decal printer among us, perhaps they would volunteer to do some decals for us. If not, I recommend printing them on good photo paper rather than a decal. In addition, racing numbers on the doors, for each side of the car must be visible. Numbers are first come first served. So when you announce your build, announce whatever number you want. 1 to 99 please. If you use decals like I do, remember a 43 decal can be a 34, a 3 or a 4. A 6 can be a 9. Be creative so that you don’t replicate someone else’s number. I realize that the actual 1:1 cars have magnetic numbers issued. A number in a light or dark circle depending on body color. If you have the ability to do generate a decal of that, rock on. If not, throwing the Intimidators number 3 on there is permissible. Other Items as outlined in section 9.2 of the P2P Regs, such as tents, sleeping bags, first aid kit, spare tires, tow ropes are not required because they could simply be in a closed trunk, but adding them to the build in some way (backseat?) would be very cool. Some useful links. http://www.endurorally.com/ http://peking2paris2013.com/car/ this will show you a lot of modifications that can be done and still be within the rules. Lastly, a Peking to Paris racer Google image search is highly recommended. This will show you what has been raced in the past. There is a team of guys that drive '37 - '39 Chevys and do well every year. As we get into June, I'm going to try to find media from the actual rally and incorporate it into this thread to get us re-motivated to finishing the models. There will be plenty of questions from prospective builders. Let'em fly, I'll answer as best I can. P2P 2016 Regs FINAL.pdf CAR Preparation Guide.Peking to Paris 2019.pdf
  13. 2019 Round2 Car Kit Releases

    If I ever start building armor, I'm going to replace all the swastikas with angry face emojis.
  14. Peking to Paris Rally CBP

    I really enjoy unusual or at least, less popular forms of auto racing. I decided a while back to do at least one model of each of my favorite types of racer. So far I have done a drift car and a La Carrrera Panamericana racer, and now the P2P racer. Some of my other plans are land speed (salt flats), banger racing, baja, hill climb (Pikes Peak), historical rally, auto-cross (pro-touring), and even the 24hrs of LeMons. Undoubtedly I will add more as they peak my interest. My thought here as I plan, is that maybe there is sufficient interest in these other racing cars that we could continue this CBP as a racing series, much as I have with the Cannonball Run CBP, which started its 12th year now. We could perhaps throw out some ideas for our theme after this build off wraps, then vote on them and continue. But only if there is sufficient interest. I'm gonna build these racers. Eventually. Ya'll are welcome to join in. Let me know whatcha think.
  15. Although it's among my favorite muscle cars I've never gotten my hands on a kit of the MPC/AMT '69 Barracuda. Before I go out and buy one, can anyone tell me about this kit? How detailed? Chassis/suspension one piece? What engine? Engine decent or got a big axle hole through it? Any major fitment issues? And, assuming the chassis/engine/suspension are not good would the Revell '69 Dart be a good donor for any of it? Sorry to ask so much, but I know someone has already been though this, and has the know how.
  16. Okay, see, that I understand. And I build similarly. I mistakenly gleaned from your original post that it was your brother driving the inclusion of all the added detail. Sorry about that. Anyway, I look forward to seeing your project come together. Best of luck.
  17. Forgive me if this seems be argumentative but why does it have to get complicated? Just because he remembers every nut and bolt, doesn't mean he's going to expect that from your gift to him. Most folks are happy if the model looks right from the shelf. How often is he going to pick it up and examine every detail?
  18. Which Model Gave You a Whoopin'?

    Aside from every model I have ever tried to customize or kitbash, these two stick in my head.
  19. 2019 CBR - the Vannonball Run!

    A lot of this is how long the paint has had to cure and what tape you are using.
  20. Huge NASCAR offering: Must Go! update 2/7/19

    I do understand. However kitbashing is sort of our bread and butter as modelers. I have bought and parted out four kits to finish one. And I don't regret a single penny spent. And those parts kits continued to supply parts to other builds as time went on. But I do suppose it depends on your building style. Some folks don't get into a lot of modifications and parts swapping. Too each his own. And it's only plastic after all.
  21. Huge NASCAR offering: Must Go! update 2/7/19

    Jacob, where ten might be a stretch, if it were me, I'd keep about half of those. It's crazy how often I need a generic IFS front end or racing style gas tank, or a complete stock car chassis. I have no interest in nascar either, but those kits are real great for parts. I've used them many times in my Cannonball racers.
  22. Mild Custom '60 Starliner

    Looks terrific. Well done sir.
  23. Well Brady does it again

    That would be me. I stop following football after my Bucs cash out, but I always catch the Super Bowl. Hard to get interested in a game when you want both teams to lose.
  24. Looking great Dennis as usual. Round 2 was able to round up all the parts and restore the '25 Double T kit (missing since '61-ish), hopefully they can pull another rabbit out of their hat and find this one. I'd buy 'em.
  25. The Stig Collection; Pagani Huayra

    Terrific work Dann.