I offer no promise that this works 100% of the time. When working with new decals always check with a un-needed decal. Having said that I have been a decal manufacture and artist for about 40 years. Water - warm water with a single drop of dish soap. Cut decal near halo or close to image on sheets that have clear on entire sheet. Dip decal in water for 10-15 seconds. Cook decal - place wet decal on a damp paper towel and allow to sit until it move on the paper freely. Prep model - apply some drops of your decal water to the model in the area the decal will be applied. With tweezers place decal on model were it is to be applied. Holding decal PAPER pull paper out from under decal hold the decal in place. Use a 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide stiff paint brush to squeegee out the water and glue. Work from center out while holding decal. Use a damp paper towel to further seal the decal to the surface. Also remove water and glue. Now the scary part....Solvaset decal set. Some folks hate this stuff......used correctly it works 100% of the time for me. Apply a light even coat of Solvaset allowing it to work.....if done right it will not wrinkle severely....only slightly at most......lots of wrinkles....too much Solvaset. If decal needs to be 'worked' into seams etc....use your damp paper towel to press the decal into recesses....you can also use the paint brush to push decal into areas. Allow decal to sit untouched for an hour or so. Repeat Solvaset if needed. When dry for a few days wipe all areas with damp paper towel to clean up any solvent and glue....glue will dis-color with age. I protect my models with Future floor shine (or whatever they call it today) MY way only......not the only way.