David G.

Nicely Done! David G.

Thanks for your insight David, I have a few more options to consider now. David G.

Thank you David. I've already trimmed the bottom apron on the side pieces of the Cord nose and a bit of the pointed angle on the top rear edge and it is sitting level with the body and chassis now. What I'm up against now is widening the back of the hood by three or four mm. I'm considering cutting the hood down the center and splicing in a long wedge of styrene to widen it. Or I could make twin cuts, each closer to the outside shoulder of the hood and splice a wedge in each cut. Of course all of that depends on how flexible the old styrene is from the Cord kit 😕 I am certainly open to suggestions. David G.

Hello everybody, it's time for another update. One of the big problems I've had working with this project is what to do about the front end. I think I've found the solution to that problem. This is the nose piece from an old 1937 Cord model kit. Just on its own, the Cord hood and grille remind me of the eagles on the Chrysler Building. That's not surprising, they're both from the Art Deco period. It may seem like an odd combination but I don't think it is horrible. The original Cord 810 body did have a somewhat similar shape to the Beetle. Obviously this is going to take a bit of cutting and pasting but the fit isn't that far off. I think I can make it work. I'll have to come up with a way to address the area below the grille... some sort of a chin spoiler. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G

Looks like it was worth all the effort. Some builds are just like that, you feel that just getting them finished is an accomplishment in itself. David G.

Welcome back to the hobby Logan, looks like you're off to a good start. As you have seen by the responses above, there are a lot of very skilled, kindhearted builders in this community who are willing to offer guidance and advice. David G.

I like where you're going with this, should be an interesting journey. David G.

I'd say you nailed it! It's amazing what can be achieved with some good detail painting. David G.

I'm amazed by the improvements you've made to this simple kit. All of them exceptionally well done. David G.

Excellent paintwork! I wish I could get paint to lay down like that. Of course, the rest is well done too but the paint really makes it pop. David G.

Very cool! David G.

Nicely Done! David G.

Rusty, Thank you! David G.

Thanks for the comment Don, I'm glad you like the scoops. The prop on the other hand is quite securely glued together and I believe that trying to pull it apart to rearrange the blades would probably destroy it. Unless I can find another one I'll probably just have to live with it the way it is. Believe me, this isn't a matter of trying to convince me to do the right thing, it's more a matter of me trying to justify, in my own mind, the error I've made. If switching the blades was matter of just deciding to do it, I would have done it by now. I'm still looking for another prop. If I can find one I'll correct the error. If I can't, I'll just have to live with the story I've created or abandon the project all together. Thanks, David G.

In the decade I've been a member of this community I have learned a tremendous amount of information relating not only to, most obviously, model cars and model building in general but also automotive history and engineering, physics, a bit of chemistry and even marketing. To that list I can now add aeronautical engineering. Though it seems obvious now, the concept that a propeller blade would have a specific directional structure had not occurred to me. My thought was if the direction of operation were reversed, the action, force and work energy would also reverse. After a little independent study on the physics and operation of aircraft propellers I learned that in prototypical operation most modern propellers have a variable pitch adjustment which essentially allows them to reverse operational direction while maintaining the same direction of rotation. This allows for pushing air forward of the aircraft, acting as a type of brake, rather than pulling it toward the aircraft to cause acceleration and create lift. So what does all this mean? Essentially nothing aside from giving me a somewhat rational explanation for how this whole irrational combination might reasonably function. Q: "So if the propeller turns in reverse, how do they get forward motion?" A: "They vary the pitch." I almost forgot to mention that I've worked in a transfer case between the rotary engine and the VW trans-axle to drive the road wheels. Besides, the way the propeller blades are formed to accommodate the shroud, I don't believe that simply flipping them over and mounting them would work without significant alteration or complete re-fabrication. Either it's a bit more work than I want to do for this goofy mash-up. So, after a bit of thought, I've decided that I can live with the prop the way it is. Now, on with the show! These air scoops are among the custom bits provided in the kit. Though I don't recall ever seeing an old Bug with anything like in place, I plan to use them for their intended purpose. In its usual configuration, a radial engine of this type is cooled mainly with the air rammed through it by the prop. Since this engine is in the rear and running the prop as a pusher instead of a tractor, the prop would have to pull air through the engine for cooling. All that air would have to come from somewhere and I think the scoops would help with that. The air collector will be attached via tubes to the window scoops. The box will house the "avionics controls". As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.