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mrm

THE FAMILY DEUCE

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4 hours ago, mrm said:

Oliver, Tom, Craig and Claude, thank you all for the input.

Considering that this will be the FAMILY Deuce, I have to take into consideration mainly the opinion of the family. To my surprise the winning votes go to the steering wheel that is second from the right on the bottom. The point my wife made was, that this is not a sports car, but more of a family cruiser and therefore the wheel needs to be more "laid back" and ornate. Who am I to argue with a woman's logic?!?! LOL

So I skipped any work on the Deuce yesterday, but I plan making up for it today. So the fourth day starts with spicing up the interior a little, because it was way too plain.

I added some plastic rod where the door handles are going to be and made some "door pockets" (or bags or whatever they should be called) from really thin sheet styrene. Not much, but enough to brake up the plain sides.

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While I was doing this I had two Foose F100 kits starring at me. So I had a funny thing go through my head "THE FAMILY FOOSE". So I waisted some time away from the Family Deuce to check out a "what-if" Family Foose.

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Now I need to put that Foose thing away, before all hell breaks lose, so I can actually finish my Family Deuce project. 

Both....both is good!

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Thank you Sam.

I always wanted my street rods to have removable side hoods that are staying securely into place. Have tried various solutions in the past and I am trying yet a new one. I like three piece hoods with no center rib on the top one. This eliminates the need of a center spreader bar, running from the radiator to the firewall. But modern street rods with three piece hoods have two bars like that running next to the top edge of the side hoods. What I am doing is that I am going to use the smallest "U" shaped brass rod for those two spreaders. And then I glued upside down pieces on the inside of the hoods. Now when everything is done, the side hoods should be able to be securely hung.

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And here is my idea at work.

I think it's perfect. It looks very subtle, in scale and realistic, no matter which hood option is chosen. And it's functional.

Now I just need to make the hinge for the top hood and everything is heading to the spray booth. 

 

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That's a great idea for your three piece hood. 

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Hi!

Great solution!

I built real 1/1 rods for customers, and this is exactly how we "hang" hood sides. On 1/1 cars, there are usually an index pin at each end of the hood side support bar, that slides tru a corresponding hole in the upper "fold" of the side panel(s). This way, they don't move around. A Dzuss fastener secures them at the bottom. The hood top is also drilled, and gets indexed at the perfect location whenever you close it. 

Of course, at this scale, you can skip that. 

Great, I can't wait to see the finished car!

CT

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Thank you guys. 

I had quite a bit done yesterday and today. It's 3am and my back and eyes are killing me, so I punched out. 

The hoods were completed and hinges made for the top hood. 

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Tested some colors.....

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Base coat for most of the car is Tamiya Metallic Black (TS).

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The interior got 100%done.

The dash was fun.

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......and so was the steering.

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But my favorite were the door panels. Very simple with door handles, window switches and my "saddlebags”.

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And the completed interior.

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The "carpet" looks very different in person. I always loved those German square weave carpets in high end rods. The Rustoleum Multicolor Textured spray for outdoor furniture mimics the look perfectly. $5 gets you a lifetime supply of easy spray-on carpet. Unless of course you make all your models with the same color carpet. LOL

The brown for the interior is another Walmart special. It's Satin Boots Brown. Extra large spray can is $5 and it works like a charm. I spray it into little drinking cup and straight through my airbrush, without reducing it. Goves a very nice leather like finish. All the photo etch is Model Car garage. 

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I also started building a Detail Master distributor. What a PITA. Not worth the tedious work IMHO. Next time I'm sticking to my usual Parts by Parks.

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I put it on the engine and started running the wires through looms and then spark plug boots and attaching them. One side is done and so am I for tonight. I will finish it tomorrow.

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Oh, I painted the mid coat on the fender/chassis and also the accent color on hte body and hoods. They are drying now so no pics. Tomorrow night if body is cured I will mask it and paint the rest. 

Stay tuned.

Edited by mrm

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This is going to be a very cool rod when it is done.  That carpet effect is very convincing.  But yeah, I know what it's like when you get engrossed in a project and suddenly notice your back and your eyes are screaming at you.  Gotta listen to your bod!

Cheers

Alan

Edited by alan barton

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I really like the look of this, from your start with those perfect wheels ... just my kind of car. Progress has been fantastic!

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Hi!

Great choice of colors for the interior. Your "sources" are clever. You may also use the textured paint for Hartzcloth type convertible roofs. The trick is to spray it from about 18", so only the lighter particles reach your painted surface. Flat clear then dulls it in a convincing way. 

Some modelers also use that paint (grey-black variety) to reproduce asphalt in dioramas. 

Keep-on working late...

CT

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John, Mike, Claude and Oliver, thank you all.

Weekends are for family, so not much to show. 

Just a quick mock up, while paint is curing, so it can be cleared. 

Zb5k8J.jpg

 

Edited by mrm

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On 10/13/2019 at 9:24 AM, Cpt Tuttle said:

Tasteful colour combo and nice finish.

Thank you Mattias.

 

So about the colors, I ran in some unexpected delay. Everything was primed with Tamiya primer. The lighter base color was Tamiya Copper, sprayed through my airbrush after decanting from the spray can without reducing it. The darker base color was Tamiya metallic black, applied the same way. The mid coat is Cinnamon candy pearl from PPG applied over everything. The dark parts got almost rock hard in no time, while the parts with copper on them took for ever to cure. I had to redo it once, because after more than 48 hours curing time, when I tried to mask the light part to spray the top half, the masking tape was not lifting the candy, but scoring the finish with its edges. I have no clue why this was happening, since it is the same paint manufacturer with the same primer with the same top coat, all shot the exact same way. 

Anyway.....After sanding and  redoing the body I left it for quite some time to dry and I think it is ready for some clear coat.

Final mock up. to make sure everything fits fine, before getting clear coated. 

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While the clear is drying I added some photoetched bolt detail to the drivetrain.

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So, few minor setbacks.......

I don't like painting the Revell's '32s rear end separate from the rear radius rods. I usually glue them on the rear axel wile using a spare frame as a jig. Then I mask the chrome I want to remain with liquid mask and then paint everything together. It creates a much nicer finished assembly. Well, I forgot to do this (been a wile), so I did a second rear end, going through primer > copper > cinnamon candy > clear again. I am not going to bore you with pictures.

The other set back is, that I won an fleabay auction for some Detail Master aluminum wheels. I remember those from over 20 years ago and always liked them but our days they are almost impossible to find. Sure enough, as soon as I received them I had to build them. And then the kids and the wife said that they have to be the wheels for the Family Deuce. On top of that, they came with a second set, which I also HAD TO build, which in turn created a third Deuce project. 

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Stay tuned and thanks for looking.

 

Edited by mrm

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I liked the wheels that were under the fenders on earlier photos but I always wanted to have a set of these Details Master wheels and I'm pretty sure they will look cool on the deuce, too! Model on, can´t wait to see it finished!

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Thank you both gents.

There was an auction on fleabay from some lady in NYC (I believe) that was under a weird section. There were four sets of Detail Master wheels and one set of JPS machined wheels. I got them all. I don’t think the lady knew what she was selling, as I got all five sets of wheels for something like $50. 

Two of the Detail Master sets have centers I am not very fond of, but I don’t care, because various photo etched centers are still available from Detail Master. Also one of the sets of wheels are sized like for s dragster or could be used for a Model T hot rod. The rears are super wide and the fronts super thin. 

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So, after spending close to 5 hrs wetsanding and polishing the Family Deuce, the fender-chassis assembly and the body were masked off.

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Then the sections that needed to be black were cut out

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I used SEM satin black paint. Tis paint is designed for automotive interiors. It sticks to anything and has a very realistic and very durable finish. The result was perfect.

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But disaster struck! I had never before experienced such thing! the clear coat and the finish were perfect and intact, but apparently the paint underneath separated. 

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I started freaking out and was pacing around the house, thinking how I have to redo the whole body. Then I thought about trying to rub everything down. So I took a microfiber cloth and gently rubbed down the affected area aplying increasing pressure. A MIRACLE !!!! It worked! everything is back to perfect. I have never experienced anything like this ever before.

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And a mock up with the new wheels.

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Stay tuned and thanks for looking.

Edited by mrm

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Nice save- I experienced some issues using SEM paint touching up 1:1 automotive dash surfaces. That paint, while the sheen and texture is "right" uses a fairly hot solvent, which can affect underlying paint coats.

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5 hours ago, gman said:

Nice save- I experienced some issues using SEM paint touching up 1:1 automotive dash surfaces. That paint, while the sheen and texture is "right" uses a fairly hot solvent, which can affect underlying paint coats.

Thanks Greg. 

SEM paints are weird. They will attack some finishes, like Model Master paints, but will not eat into plastic. I have found that it is less problem to spray them straight on bare plastic, than over a primer. The other thing is that they can be used as primers as they stick very well to any material and can take pretty much anything sprayed over them. The only down side is their price, as a spray can is almost $15. At least where I live. 

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Where I had the reaction using SEM, I was spraying an ABS dash bezel for my old Jeep Cherokee- it lifted and cracked anywhere the OEM paint remained on the dash. I assume the OEM paint was a type of acrylic lacquer, as the only thing that would strip it off was 99% isopropyl alcohol. Over primer, the sheen wasn't the same as over the bare ABS, so as you mention I ended up stripping the dash bezel and shooting the SEM over bare ABS with much more OEM-looking results. I took that to heart when using the rest of the can on various projects. 

Yes, they are expensive cans of paint. The upside is, they have factory correct colors for a variety of interior surfaces on a number of vehicles, and once you get the hang of what not to spray them over, they give a nice effect. Need a factory correct interior color for a model? SEM usually has your back, with enough paint in that can to do several projects.

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Thank you Greg

Some progress made on the axels.

All bolt heads on the rear were picked out with Molotow chrome marker.The kit supplied brakes are used with their calipers drilled to accept some brake lines. I cut tiny pieces of aluminum tubing to use as fittings. There is no reason IMO, why a modern Street Rod with boxed frame rails would run exposed lines or wiring, so I made a little t-junction and added black flexible line to go to the frame. 

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The kit's air bags look meh to me, so I added couple of rubber o-rings on each to make them look a little nicer. 

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The tires received some mounting bosses. What is not seen here is that around these bosses were build much larger diameter plastic tubing to match the hubs dimeter. Everything is put together with 5 min epoxy.

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The front axle was treated in the same fashion, except that the lines are braided.

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None of that would have been possible without the help of some good bourbon of course.

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And the chassis is finally seating on its own. This is going to be the final stance. 

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Thanks for looking and stay tuned.

Edited by mrm

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