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Painting Raised Lettering


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You could try the Bare Metal Foil method. Cover the letters , paint and then remove the paint from the letters. A search here may say more but I have not had the best of luck with the search here. Someone will be along soon to give better advise. Some guys do a dry brush method. Good luck !  I myself would probably use the small Moloto chrome pen. Some I think use a silver sharpie.

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I've been using the bare metal (under paint) method on my latest models with great results.  I used a small q-tip and lacquer thinner to gradually remove the paint. 

I've probably built 100 models using paint, Molotow or bare metal over the lettering.  I wish I had learned this earlier!

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6 hours ago, Steamboat said:

I've been using the bare metal (under paint) method on my latest models with great results.  I used a small q-tip and lacquer thinner to gradually remove the paint.

I've been using this method for years and believe me, short of PE parts, (which are available for the '58 Edsel by the way) there is no better better way to finish scripts.

I use the same basic method as Bill.

With paint of any kind, (Molotow included) you have to be reliant on a steady hand. (almost impossibly steady in many cases)

With the "foil under paint" technique, not only do you not need to be completely steady, but you will end up with perfect scripts every time once you get the hang of it, regardless of how faint the lettering.

 

My '64 Pontiac Grand Prix had very faint scripts, but as you can see, they turned out beautifully.

image.jpeg.f9fbbcc47b1c266dede5f8b64eb63f1a.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

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The BMF method works well as has been noted above.  I've used it successfully many times as well.  Rather than use thinner of any kind I like to use a polish to remove the paint from the raised letters.  One trick in using the BMF has not been mentioned.  Trim it close to what you want to cover and burnish it well.  Do not worry about cutting out around each letter.  The paint will hide the foil edges.  Only the highest part of the raised image will ultimately show through once the paint has been removed.  Really worth a try.  The outside edge of the grill and the fluted part below it were both done with BMF before painting on this '37 Seagrave.

017.jpg.b00cf5a7076b8bf6b9c6ab2778c31cc3.jpg

Edited by Chariots of Fire
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What has worked for me in the past is painting it with a stamp.

I either use a piece of firm sponge rubber glued to a wooden stick or just the eraser tip of a pencil, if I have one that wasn't used too much. I paint the rubber/eraser lightly with the intended color and carefully stamp it on the raised portions to be painted. It's important to not use too much paint, better 10 thin runs instead of one that used too much paint which might fill the little recesses.

Edited by mattg
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  • 6 months later...

Steve, are the individual letters on the side of your Grand Prix and the trunk of your Mercury covered with one piece of foil or individually? I'd be hard put to cut out the individual letters. Thanks, John

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, jacko said:

Steve, are the individual letters on the side of your Grand Prix and the trunk of your Mercury covered with one piece of foil or individually? I'd be hard put to cut out the individual letters. Thanks, John

The Grand Prix has 3 pieces.

One for “GRAND”, one for “PRIX” and one for the badge.

The Mercury does have individual pieces around each letter.

But remember, you can apply them as one piece and once they’re burnished down well, you can cut around each letter.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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On 11/1/2020 at 11:01 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I've been using this method for years and believe me, short of PE parts, (which are available for the '58 Edsel by the way) there is no better better way to finish scripts.

I use the same basic method as Bill.

With paint of any kind, (Molotow included) you have to be reliant on a steady hand. (almost impossibly steady in many cases)

With the "foil under paint" technique, not only do you not need to be completely steady, but you will end up with perfect scripts every time once you get the hang of it, regardless of how faint the lettering.

 

My '64 Pontiac Grand Prix had very faint scripts, but as you can see, they turned out beautifully.

image.jpeg.f9fbbcc47b1c266dede5f8b64eb63f1a.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Steve, Your '64 Pontiac Grand Prix looks real in this picture.  Beautiful job.

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