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1974 Camaro , continued


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I followed Pierre's advice, and thinned the primer more, and got much better results. I'm hoping one more round of primer and sanding will allow me to start putting some color on the model. The brush stokes almost were gone on this latest application, so I wont have to sand as hard to get a smooth surface for paint.

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4 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

You have produced a good finish on the primer bodywork, Mark......... You must be keen to get some colour on now !

David

Thanks, David. Yes I really want to see if I can make this brush painting deal work. It would be so much better then having to work with my air brush or rattle cans, that I end up polishing anyway. The spraying has to be done outside and conditions for spraying down here in all this heat and humidity is never optimal. Even in the winter, it's still very humid.

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6 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

Thanks, David. Yes I really want to see if I can make this brush painting deal work. It would be so much better then having to work with my air brush or rattle cans, that I end up polishing anyway. The spraying has to be done outside and conditions for spraying down here in all this heat and humidity is never optimal. Even in the winter, it's still very humid.

You surprise me...... I assumed that you were only brush painting the primer, and then going on to airbrush or rattle can for the top coat.... brave man indeed!

David

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On 9/17/2021 at 1:47 PM, Anglia105E said:

You surprise me...... I assumed that you were only brush painting the primer, and then going on to airbrush or rattle can for the top coat.... brave man indeed!

David

 

Actually the color coat goes on better then the primer.  you thin it 100 percent and add two drops of distilled water. The brush stokes disappear. 

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Got three color coats on and I'm very pleased with the results. The model is a very pale yellow, but these pictures make it look even more pale then it actually is. The model matches my reference picture of the real car very well. Now I can finally move on to the interior.

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I decided to polish with 6000,8000, and 12000 grit sanding cloths but I went through to primer in a couple of spots, so I added another coat of paint. This time I added one more drop of yellow in the mix which was, 10 drops of white, 2 drops of yellow, 12 drops of medium thinner, and 2 drops of distilled water. It was much more yellow in real life but the photos don't show how actually yellow it is. It matches my reference photos even better though, so I'm sticking with it. I use a lot more light when photographing the finished pictures of the model and I think the color should show up better on those photos. The polishing did not improve the overall smoothness of the paint that much , so I believe I will just future what I have now and it should look okay. If not I can always remove the future and add some clear that I can polish and see if I get a more mirror like appearance before I add another coat of future. Trouble is the layers are starting to get a little thick so I hope the future on what I have now will give me enough gloss to be satisfied.

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Thanks, Anton and Josh. With each coat of paint I'm learning more about this brush painting deal. One cool thing I've learned is, if I get a little piece of trash or a bristle or a hair ends up in the paint, after ten minutes, the paint drys and these things can easily be removed with a wooden tooth pic with no damage to the paint. It is important though that you clean the brush well before using it . If there's any little thing left in the brush like a spot of dryed paint that didnt get cleaned out it will find its way to the next coat of paint you apply to the model. I am very pleased with the brush painting and will never go back to spraying.

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Well I decide to go ahead and brush some Model Master gloss clear acryl on the body to see how it would polish out. I just put it on full strength and actually the brush marks weren't too bad. I think the polishing should remove them ,and the future should give me the gloss I'm looking for.  I also started on the interior. The dash and seat will need to be modified quite a bit. However the stock door trim panels were actually used on this car. But the door handles were removed. I will also have to install a weird looking roll  cage, that I don't have really good reference pictures for. Some of it will be an edjucated guess.

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1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

The hood looks good, so after polishing it should be superb. Following this one with great interest!

Thanks , Pierre. I don't know why the body looks duller then the hood but it has the same shine in real life. The gloss clear also brought more color out of the paint. It looks yellower then shots taken before the gloss clear was applied. Like you said after polishing and putting on the future I would be happy with it looking like models I sprayed with tamiya and then finished with future. We shall see.

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I finally got the Pledge/Future on the model and am very pleased. I can go ahead and work on the rest of the model now. After the model is decalled, I will apply one more coat of future to seal them on. I got some more work on the interior done by starting on the dash conversion to what the real car had. The under hood area is going to be black. That's why I didn't bother to add anymore paint to it .

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Edited by MarkJ
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13 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Mark, I love the paint job!!!

Did you have to polish the MM Acryl before the Future layer?

Pierre, Yes, I lightly sanded the MM gloss clear acrylic with 8000 and 12000 grit cloths just to knock the high points off the brush strokes down. You can no longer see any brush strokes with the future . I'm thinking if I thin the MM gloss clear next time I can get it on smoother and not have to polish it at all before the Future. Now that I found those bottles I should be able to thin the MM in a more accurate way. I didn't even try to thin it on this model.

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Got some more done on the dash. Spent yesterday making guage decals for it. Hoping I have them sized right. Also added the rear foundation after I cut it loose from the rear seat, and filled the void left where the seat would have gone.

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