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Question about "chrome" stripping


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There was a time (2000ish) where Revellogram changed from a bright chrome plating to a more flat looking chrome that looked more like it was spray paint than chrome plating.

My question is can that stuff still be stripped off with bleach???

Just wondering.

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I'd say it's worth a try. I don't think the bleach will hurt the plastic. You could try a piece of the chrome plated sprue as a test, first, then you'll know.

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If you have any Super Clean (Castrol Super Clean) or Purple Power many use to remove paint, soak the plated parts in that and the plating will go away in minutes, the undercoating will take a little longer but will also go away.

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I use super clean to dechrome my chrome.  Chrome is gone within mins, but sometimes the underlayer is still there.  May take a day or more depending on the kit.  I bought a small container so i can dechrome whole sprues and $8 jug of super clean lasts a long long time.  

Edited by Dpate
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I have used bleach and it took forever and still left specks of chrome behind. Super Clean is the way to go and you can buy it in the spray bottle if you don’t want a gallon..

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It has been my experience that the newer Revell chrome is the most difficult to strip. Super Clean or stinky Easy Off for me. Round 2 chrome will come off in a couple of minutes with Bleach, rubbing alcohol, or brake fluid.

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On 7/29/2021 at 4:16 PM, Vinny G said:

There was a time (2000ish) where Revellogram changed from a bright chrome plating to a more flat looking chrome that looked more like it was spray paint than chrome plating.

My question is can that stuff still be stripped off with bleach???

Just wondering.

The  "chrome" is actually a very thin (few atoms thick) layer of aluminum applied over a layer of clear lacquer, and often also final coated with another layer of lacquer.  If the lacquer is glossy, the "chrome" will look like polished chrome.  If the lacquer has a satin or flat finish, then the "chrome" "will also look like satin finish aluminum (or silver paint).  It is important to strip both the layer of aluminum, and the lacquer.  That is why using solutions that contain Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) gives the best result (those are the same styrene-safe stripping solutions used for stripping paint on model bodies.

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That semigloss finnish can be safely removed with IPA and a soft fluffy round paint brush, just go slow, I've done that quite a few times back in the 80's when Monogram had the satin clear fettish goin on.

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