Advice for 1st time airbrush user

[Kevinch]

Getting ready to start some painting on a scale car model with a Badger 105 given to me as a gift.  I've never used an airbrush before, & I am totally confused over paint types in general, let alone what would be the wisest choice for a first time AB user.

I will be painting in my basement. I have one of those portable spray booths & it will be ducted out a window. I do not have a paint dryer but am considering one.

So what would be a good choice for me?  Should it be an acrylic? Enamel or lacquer? What brand? What about primer? I know it's a big question, any advice is appreciated.

[TransAmMike]

Well for me Keven, I like acrylics (model paint brands, craft paint).  I like to not have to use paint or laquer thinners.  Clean-up with good old water!!   Now as you get more into it there are special thinners and concoctions you can use for thinning the acrylic paint but like I say, I like water no mess clean-up.

[Kevinch]

6 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Well for me Keven, I like acrylics (model paint brands, craft paint).  I like to not have to use paint or laquer thinners.  Clean-up with good old water!!   Now as you get more into it there are special thinners and concoctions you can use for thinning the acrylic paint but like I say, I like water no mess clean-up.

Thanks Mike....appreciate the input. Do you use acrylic enamel or lacquer (or both)?

I see you are from middle Tennessee. I have in-laws around the Pikeville - Dayton area. Beautiful state.

[TransAmMike]

It's water based acrylic.    Tamiya is a brand a lot of people use. I'm using Createx but as a beginner Tamiya is probably a good choice (tho I never used it before).  I have gotten great results and others on here have gotten great results with cheap craft paints.  If you have a Hobby Lobby in your area they have a huge selection of different brands and color choices. Walmart also sells craft paints.

We moved to Tennessee about 15 years ago and love it!!

[peteski]

Kevin,  tha type of question you are askign comes up here fairly frequently.  There is also a sticky thread in this forum about airbrushes.  You might want to brush up on that lengthy thread.

Here is a thread which goes into types of paints to use.  Many of us use "stinky" (not water-based) paints.  Especially if you are looking for some specific automotive body color.

 

[Bills72sj]

Since you are starting, I would go with water based acrylics. Water clean up and LOTS of colors available. I cannot speak to their adhesion to plastic but if it was an issue, I am sure it would have brought up as a topic in the past. I am still using decanted lacquers and enamels simply because of all the inventory I have. Be advised, this route can give good results but it is a hassle. Buy some white plastic spoons from the Dollar store and practice shooting them with your air brush. Experiment with different colors and types of rattle can primer. Practice with different air pressures, spraying distances, light coats, heavy coats, clear coats etc until you start to get the "feel" for the best results. Start with whatever paints fit your budget. Youtube Barbatos Rex has a lot of good content. I have learned a bit from him. Also get a bottle of Pledge floor polish. It is the most forgiving and least reactive clear coat out there. One bottle will last you for YEARS. Good luck.

[BlackSheep214]

I airbrush using both acrylics and enamels alike. I never, ever thin acrylics with water. I don’t feel confident with acrylics thinned with water that will give me enough bite to adhere to primer. However, DO NOT use acrylic primer. They’re garbage. 

I use Rustoleum brand primer from a rattle can. With warmer weather soon upon us, I’ll spray primer outdoors on dry days. Heck, I’ll even let it dry outdoors under the sun. This way there’s no worries of toxic smells from enamel paints.

As someone already mentioned, practice airbrushing using a plastic spoon. Find that paint to thinner ratio that works for you. It’s all trial and error basically. 

I clean my airbrushes with lacquer or enamel thinner. Tamiya thinner works well for acrylics too. I’ve also heard of folks using Windex to thin acrylics too. Water may be okay for cleaning your airbrush but I honestly don’t feel water alone can give you that complete clean. Sometimes you need to use something stronger.

 

 

 

[Dpate]

9 hours ago, Kevinch said:

Getting ready to start some painting on a scale car model with a Badger 105 given to me as a gift.  I've never used an airbrush before, & I am totally confused over paint types in general, let alone what would be the wisest choice for a first time AB user.

I will be painting in my basement. I have one of those portable spray booths & it will be ducted out a window. I do not have a paint dryer but am considering one.

So what would be a good choice for me?  Should it be an acrylic? Enamel or lacquer? What brand? What about primer? I know it's a big question, any advice is appreciated.

All 3 acrylic, enamel, and lacquer have there place in the hobby going so far too even using all 3 on a single build.  Depending on your setup and living space will determine what is best to start out with.  Vallejo, Ammo by mig, AK, Tamiya, Mr.hobby, Alclad, MCW, Scalefinishes, Dspiae, Gravity colors etc.  So many great brands out there to choose from it's all subjective which is the "BEST" because what's best for one person might be horrible for u.  Same goes with primers i use Mr.hobby, Tamiya, Alclad, Titan hobby.  It's all about trail and error and knowing your huminity in your work space helps too.  Practice, Practice, Practice.  You wont be a bob ross starting out, but eventually you get better and upgrade to better brushes, and getting better at thinning paints etc.  

Most of us guys though will only use automotive lacquer paints like scalefinishes and MCW for bodies.  You can have a body painted with scalefinishes paint and 2K cleared in like a hour lol.  But you can also use an acrylic hybrid like Tamiya X-1 gloss black.  Can turn out amazing on a body especially after a good sand and polish unless you happened to get a perfect gloss finish first go round. 

[Kevinch]

6 hours ago, peteski said:

Kevin,  tha type of question you are askign comes up here fairly frequently.  There is also a sticky thread in this forum about airbrushes.  You might want to brush up on that lengthy thread.

Here is a thread which goes into types of paints to use.  Many of us use "stinky" (not water-based) paints.  Especially if you are looking for some specific automotive body color.

 

 

3 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

Since you are starting, I would go with water based acrylics. Water clean up and LOTS of colors available. I cannot speak to their adhesion to plastic but if it was an issue, I am sure it would have brought up as a topic in the past. I am still using decanted lacquers and enamels simply because of all the inventory I have. Be advised, this route can give good results but it is a hassle. Buy some white plastic spoons from the Dollar store and practice shooting them with your air brush. Experiment with different colors and types of rattle can primer. Practice with different air pressures, spraying distances, light coats, heavy coats, clear coats etc until you start to get the "feel" for the best results. Start with whatever paints fit your budget. Youtube Barbatos Rex has a lot of good content. I have learned a bit from him. Also get a bottle of Pledge floor polish. It is the most forgiving and least reactive clear coat out there. One bottle will last you for YEARS. Good luck.

Thanks to you both - really appreciate you took the time to post & advise.

[Kevinch]

4 hours ago, Dpate said:

All 3 acrylic, enamel, and lacquer have there place in the hobby going so far too even using all 3 on a single build.  Depending on your setup and living space will determine what is best to start out with.  Vallejo, Ammo by mig, AK, Tamiya, Mr.hobby, Alclad, MCW, Scalefinishes, Dspiae, Gravity colors etc.  So many great brands out there to choose from it's all subjective which is the "BEST" because what's best for one person might be horrible for u.  Same goes with primers i use Mr.hobby, Tamiya, Alclad, Titan hobby.  It's all about trail and error and knowing your huminity in your work space helps too.  Practice, Practice, Practice.  You wont be a bob ross starting out, but eventually you get better and upgrade to better brushes, and getting better at thinning paints etc.  

Most of us guys though will only use automotive lacquer paints like scalefinishes and MCW for bodies.  You can have a body painted with scalefinishes paint and 2K cleared in like a hour lol.  But you can also use an acrylic hybrid like Tamiya X-1 gloss black.  Can turn out amazing on a body especially after a good sand and polish unless you happened to get a perfect gloss finish first go round. 

Thanks for the advice Dusty - much appreciated.

[Sandboarder]

I only use Lacquer’s and wear a respirator so I don’t breathe in any fumes. I’ve never airbrushed any other type of paint tbh.

 

Each to their own but yes using an airbrush opens up a lot of possibilities. 

[Mike 1017]

Check out The Airbrush Cleaning - Ultrasonic Cleaner. Topic. Lots of good advice on airbrush cleaning

Mike

[Monty]

Since everyone seems to want to put you on the acrylics trail, I'll add some things you should know.

1) While it may be true that acrylics, being water-based, are somewhat easier to clean up, they can also be the hardest thing to clean out of an airbrush if they're not dealt with after shooting.  Some (Tamiya) seem to spray better with their own reducer, as opposed to using water. 

2) Acrylics also seem to the the worst at "tip-dry", which basically means paint dries at the tip of the airbrush, impairing spraying.  I'm told that there are flow improvers that can remedy that.  There are also retarders for acrylics that allow the paint to flow out more before drying, which can lessen the chances of orange peel in the paint.  

3) Spoons are good for testing your paint mix, but IMHO cheap water bottles are better for practicing painting before starting on model bodies.  This is also the time to learn what air pressure works best for the paint you're going to be spraying.  

4) Not all acrylic primers are garbage.  Badger's Stynylrez primers are highly rated and come in about 10 colors.  Keep that in mind as primer colors can impact the shade of the top coat.  For example, you probably wouldn't want to paint pearl white over a black primer. 

5) As has been stated, Barbatos Rex is the king of YouTube hobby paint videos, and he has a bunch featuring acrylic paints, reducers and cleaners. 

[TransAmMike]

So Kevin, is your head spinning with all the opinions and advise?

As I mentioned in my first reply to you water based acrylics is an inexpensive paint choice if you practice with craft paint thats available in many colors.  

Monty's point about tip dry certainly is an issue and there are products that you can buy to eliminate that, one being "Liquitex Slow Dry Medium". Bought mine at Hobby Lobby.

As for thinning, there are concoctions out there I learned about here on this forum and some people use windshield washer fluid with good results. 

Again Monty mentioned Stynylrez primer and it is what I have used.

Bills72sj mention of Pledge floor polish is right on for water baswd paint jobs....its actually now sold a Revive Floor Polish.

Get a bottle of craft paint, some plastic spoons, use some windshield washer fluid to thin to 2% milk consistency and spray away.

By the way, my last several paint jobs have been with Createx Pearls thinned with their thinner and slow dry medium all available at HL. Cleared with Pledge, a bottle I've had for several years.

Good luck.

 

[peteski]

Nothing beats hands-on experience.  Grab the airbrush and spray away (at some unimportant objects like discarded model car body, plastic soda bottle, or plastic spoons).  Then, when you feel more comfortable, start spraying the parts of a kit you will actually build.

[Kevinch]

Thanks for all of the input folks - I appreciate each & every one!!

 

[rightrudder]

I'm a big fan of the Tamiya acrylics, and  I use 90% isopropyl alcohol for both thinning and cleanup. It's weird...they stick really well to bare plastic, yet they scratch more easily than lacquers or enamels, if that make sense. Very durable once sealed with a clear coat, though.

They have a distinct sweet smell, but no really overpowering fumes. Far, far easier to clean out of the airbrush than enamel & lacquer.

Here's a T-Bird done with Tamiya metallic blue over bare plastic, sealed with Mr. Hobby Super Clear. I'm really impressed with how smooth the paint goes down.