Diecast Modification Materials Questions

[DonM]

Hello,

I am building a custom 2002 Thunderbird. I am using a Maisto diecast body as the donor (the snap kit is up to $100 on eBay, diecast was $12). Anyway, I want to graft the roof of a 1967 Mustang fastback onto the body. Questions:

1) What is the best way to bond the styrene roof to the metal body? I"m thinking crack filling CA...

2) What filler would work well with the two materials for blending styrene to metal? I want something easily sanded/shaped.

Any other hints are also welcome!

Thanks in advance - DonM

[Oldriginal86]

I’m not sure CA is the correct adhesive for long term. I would use a two part epoxy. As far as filler, good old Bondo is compatible with both. 

[iBorg]

I agree with the use of epoxy. CA doesn't seem to bond as well to metal. Bondo is designed for metal. I look forward to seeing this. I remember a late magazine had a great article by Mark G on customizing the retro T-Bird.

 

[peteski]

Well, according to the Super Glue ads, small metal-to-metal bond can hold up a weight of a man.   Of course the surfaces have to be perfectly clean and flat.  CA also has very little shear strength.
But seriously I agree that epoxy is a better choice here. And not just some ordinary epoxy. I recommend J-B Weld, and not their 5-minute epoxy but the long setting stuff.  Yes, you will have to wait overnight, but those bonds will be really strong.  Placing the model in a dehydrator (or somewhere warm (like on top of a furnace or boiler) will also speed up the cure.

Edited September 20, 2023 by peteski

[NOBLNG]

Milliput would be another choice for filler. I have used the super fine white variety on both die cast and styrene. It sticks to both very well. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Yes, a quality epoxy is the way to go for a structural adhesive. JB Weld is easily obtainable, as is 30-minute hobby-shop stuff.

Don't use anything "5-minute". You will be disappointed.

"Bondo", the now-generic name for any two-part catalyzed polyester filler, is your best overall filler bet. It adheres well to both well-scuffed styrene and metal, and featheredges well on both...if you mix and apply it right.

It also hardens all the way through thick applications by chemical action, so there's no waiting and shrinking like you get with one-part non-catalyzed filler.

Bondo 801 Professional Glazing and Spot Putty is available in modeler-friendly packaging at mose auto parts stores, and comes with its own little tube of catalyst.

Pay attention to the product number and name, as all Bondo-brand spot-putties are not the same.

Edited September 20, 2023 by Ace-Garageguy

[DonM]

Wow, thank you to everyone. I've never worked with diecast before so have some concerns but I thought, "what the heck," and bought the car. It's supposed to arrive in two days. At that point, I'll strip it and start marking cuts. I'll post up pics as I go. Here's a pic of what I"m essentially going for. I have NO skills in photoshop so what you see is my crafting in MS PowerPoint HAHAHA

 

[DonM]

I'll add some aero parts and of course, make door panel lines, etc all line up. I'll drop the front end so the upper character line on the body runs parallel to the ground, not the rocker panel. I'll mount the body on the chassis of a 1998 Saleen Speedster and call it done. Hoping to rob the Mustang interior and blend with what I can find/make of the 2002 TBird. Interesting fact - the TBird and Stang are within an inch for wheelbase so that will help a great deal when swapping the chassis.

[oldcarfan]

I've had reasonable luck using super glue as long as the metal surface was scuffed up a little for grip, but I preferred JB Weld.

[Shark]

Another vote for JB Weld. I usually put it on a little heavy and "carve" out my shape with a Dremel tool and files. Usually the longer something takes to set up, the stronger it is.