jaymcminn Posted July 14, 2013 Posted July 14, 2013 (edited) This is a build I just finished of the Hasegawa Ferrari 250 TR. Paint is Tamiya Chrome Yellow with the scallop in French Blue. This kit utilized the Studio 27 photoetched detail set, the Hasegawa aftermarket PE/ plastic wire wheels, MCG boltheads and Model Factory Hiro badges. Every good thing you've ever heard about this kit is absolutely true... it's a real joy to build and looks amazing when completed. If I had built this one box-stock it would still be a really nice model, but the additional details (especially those wheels- I have another set that will be going on my upcoming 250 California build) really make this one stand out. The "story" behind this car is that it's a former racer that was imported to California and street-driven by its second owner, who had it repainted in the yellow/blue color scheme. I think the bright colors work on this body shape and the scallop really makes it feel period-correct. There actually were a few street-driven Testa Rossas... even one that had a Ford V8 swapped in when the V12 blew up! Edited July 15, 2013 by jaymcminn
Scuderia Posted July 14, 2013 Posted July 14, 2013 That's a real beauty, and a cool story too. This is awesome, I like it alot!
jaymcminn Posted July 14, 2013 Author Posted July 14, 2013 (edited) The engine bay was detailed out with crackle-finish paint on the valve covers and some wiring and plumbing. It doesn't take much to bring the engine bay to life. The interior received a fair amount of work... I found a decal for the battery and wired it, and used the fantastic instrument panel parts from the Studio 27 PE set as well. I hollowed out the spokes on the steering wheel and used fine wire for the turn signal stalk and gearshift. I used a technique adapted from a faux-finishing tutorial online to reproduce a natural leather interior. The headrest cushion was scratchbuilt from sheet styrene and fine detail wire. All panel lines were darkened with a mix of Tamiya yellow and smoke acrylics. The star of the show here is undoubtedly the Hasegawa aftermarket wire wheels. Five layers of photoetch make up the spokes, with plastic parts for the inner and outer rim and the hubs. The result is stunning, and fits directly to the kit without modification. All in all, this was a really fun build of a car that I've been wanting in my collection for a while. As always, questions and comments are welcome! Edited July 15, 2013 by jaymcminn
Scuderia Posted July 14, 2013 Posted July 14, 2013 I guess I was early on the trigger, but the additions are great stuff. Good job!
Miatatom Posted July 14, 2013 Posted July 14, 2013 Beautiful work. Could you give us a link for the tutorial on the leather? It looks very realistic.
jaymcminn Posted July 14, 2013 Author Posted July 14, 2013 Beautiful work. Could you give us a link for the tutorial on the leather? It looks very realistic. Thanks, Tom! I could give you a link, but it's pretty easy to just explain what I did... 1) apply your base color- should be a shade lighter/brighter than your desired final color. 2) if your base color is acrylic, clear coat with Testors Dullcote to protect it from the next step. 3) mix a "top color" two shades darker than your base color using acrylics. I used a custom mix of Testors acrylics. Mix this 50% with Micro Satin (Testors acrylic satin clear would work as well) and thin a little with water. This is what faux-finishers call a "glaze". 4) Using a large brush, apply your glaze over the base color in a heavy, wet coat. The glaze dries quickly, so don't do more than one part at a time. 5) While the glaze is wet, use a lint-free cloth or paper towel (I used blue shop towels) as a blotter to remove some of the glaze from the surface. Just dab it against the surface lightly... you want to leave some of the glaze on. This is what gives the part the leather texture.The glaze will also tend to remain in the recesses, adding further dimension to the part. Let the part dry- you can finish with dullcote if you want, but using the Micro Satin gave me the perfect leather sheen. The key to this technique is experimentation-once you've tried it a few times, you'll have no problems. The key is mainly to make sure your base coat is protected and you do NOT allow the glaze coat to dry before blotting. Good luck!
Gluebomber Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 Absolutely stunning build. That's one of the best scale Ferrari engines I've seen and the interior is outstanding. Also, the finish and paint scheme are great. Well done!
Chillyb1 Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 I've built a couple of these and have several more in the stash. And now you've ruined that paint scheme for me! Not really, though I had something like that in mind. I was also envisioning privately owned ones because they offer the opportunity to come up with paint schemes like yours. I love that color combo and the way the scallop narrows all the way back. For my next one i'd planned on doing the front as you have but keeping the stripe the same width back to the tail. Anyway, very nice work. I used the KA Models photoetch on one build and don't remember anything like your seatbelts included. Were those from another source? Is there a reason you didn't use the photoetch steering wheel?
Dr. Cranky Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 Wow, what a beauty. I love the subtle weathering touches in that interior. Superb.
vintagedragfan Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) nice clean work Jason, looks incredible Edited July 15, 2013 by vintagedragfan
PeeBee Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 Great job on that TR. I actually passed a TR250 (he was coming in the opposite direction) on Rte. 35 in NY state last summer. From afar (I was driving a truck and so was able to spot it a 1/4 mile down the road) I thought it was "just" another AC Cobra replica. I nearly passed out when he got up next to me.
jaymcminn Posted July 15, 2013 Author Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) I've built a couple of these and have several more in the stash. And now you've ruined that paint scheme for me! Not really, though I had something like that in mind. I was also envisioning privately owned ones because they offer the opportunity to come up with paint schemes like yours. I love that color combo and the way the scallop narrows all the way back. For my next one i'd planned on doing the front as you have but keeping the stripe the same width back to the tail. Anyway, very nice work. I used the KA Models photoetch on one build and don't remember anything like your seatbelts included. Were those from another source? Is there a reason you didn't use the photoetch steering wheel? Thanks, Curtis. Your blue and white car was an inspiration for me to get off my butt and start building this one. I was actually going to do the scallop in Italian Red, but got talked out of it... fortunately, because the French Blue looks really good. As far as the photoetch goes, I actually screwed up there... it's not the KA models set, but the Studio 27 set. The S27 set includes the seat belts, but, oddly enough, no steering wheel spokes. I modified the original post to correct this error. Edited July 15, 2013 by jaymcminn
jaymcminn Posted July 15, 2013 Author Posted July 15, 2013 Great job on that TR. I actually passed a TR250 (he was coming in the opposite direction) on Rte. 35 in NY state last summer. From afar (I was driving a truck and so was able to spot it a 1/4 mile down the road) I thought it was "just" another AC Cobra replica. I nearly passed out when he got up next to me. I'd love to see one of these in person...every year in Naples we have a fantastic car show downtown where a lot of amazing exotics show up. Things like C-type Jaguars, Birdcage Maseratis, and Ferrari 250SWBs. I keep hoping for a 250TR, but no such luck yet!
Cien1986 Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 Real outstanding works..... i really like how you detailup the engine thumbs up...... and currently i am building the same model but the black one ...
cruz Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 Turned out sweet, I am currently putting one of these together and using Historic Racing Miniatures engine, no doubt it is one sweet looking build when completed as witnessed by your pictures!
Chillyb1 Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 Thanks, Curtis. Your blue and white car was an inspiration for me to get off my butt and start building this one. I was actually going to do the scallop in Italian Red, but got talked out of it... fortunately, because the French Blue looks really good. As far as the photoetch goes, I actually screwed up there... it's not the KA models set, but the Studio 27 set. The S27 set includes the seat belts, but, oddly enough, no steering wheel spokes. I modified the original post to correct this error. Thanks for clearing that up. I was actually going to accuse you of making that mistake but was a little confused myself. The KA set is excellent and has two steering wheel options. It also has great instrument panel details including keys and keychains! For future reference (I'm assuming you'll build this again at some point), the Hobby Design photoetch set is probably the best one available. It isn't very expensive and includes lots of stuff not included in other sets. For one, it includes the wire wheel spokes, which is a much cheaper option than buying either the KA wheel set or the Hasegawa one [you have to modify the kit wheels to accept the pe parts, but the results are great looking wheels]. It also includes parts to create that electronics panel under the dash--yes, every one of those tiny little components needs to be folded and attached to the circuit board! Anyway, that color scheme is spectacular. i'm glad you went with the French blue. I've been thinking about doing my next one in that yellow with a green scallop, imagining some Brazilian driver's private vintage racer.
Silver Foxx Posted July 15, 2013 Posted July 15, 2013 A beautiful build , lots of extra detail work is great.
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