bigbluesd Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 (edited) Just curious how some of you guys go about opening up very tiny vents like the ones in the photo below.... I've seen it in a few threads but when I try to open up something even bigger with a Dremel I make a complete mess of it. Any tips?FOLLOWUP 07/07 - So I've gotten this far but my openings are still pretty messy: That is my smallest needle file shown in the picture... do they make anything smaller than that? I'm thinking if I had a small enough flat file that would be the best way to clean up the rough edges. Also (while we are on the subject), any suggestions on what to use to smooth out the panel lines that I've scribed deeper? I have been folding a piece of sandpaper in half and running it through the lines with marginal results. Edited July 8, 2014 by bigbluesd
Belugawrx Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 (edited) Using a #75 or#80 in a pin vise,.. carefully drill many small holes thru the styrene, where you want to open it,.. then even more carefully, file or new #11 blade scrape, cut smooth out the remaining plastic until opened. It helps to file, sand the underside to make it thinner ,..like paper thin to aid in the removal of the styrene, Try it on a donor ,..first! Cheers Edited July 2, 2014 by Belugawrx
slusher Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 On 7/2/2014 at 3:57 AM, Belugawrx said: Using a #75 or#80 in a pin vise,.. carefully drill many small holes thru the styrene, where you want to open it,.. then even more carefully, file or new #11 blade scrape, cut smooth out the remaining plastic until opened. It helps to file, sand the underside to make it thinner ,..like paper thin to aid in the removal of the styrene, Try it on a donor ,..first! Cheers Very good tip Bruce...
blunc Posted July 8, 2014 Posted July 8, 2014 Brandon, for scribing/re-scribing panel and door lines, most builders use one of the following: dental pick back side of an exacto blade (the not sharp side) panel scribers from tamiya or micro mark
clovis Posted July 8, 2014 Posted July 8, 2014 Do you have a set of die files? One of the handiest tools I've ever owned; both for model building and in the real world.
Chief Joseph Posted July 8, 2014 Posted July 8, 2014 On 7/2/2014 at 3:40 AM, bigbluesd said: FOLLOWUP 07/07 - So I've gotten this far but my openings are still pretty messy: That is my smallest needle file shown in the picture... do they make anything smaller than that? I'm thinking if I had a small enough flat file that would be the best way to clean up the rough edges. Also (while we are on the subject), any suggestions on what to use to smooth out the panel lines that I've scribed deeper? I have been folding a piece of sandpaper in half and running it through the lines with marginal results. Here's where you switch to an Xacto knife and use the tip to ever-so-gently square off the corners and clean the edges. There are some expensive needle files that are this small, but the trusty Xacto is better suited to this task.
kitbash1 Posted July 8, 2014 Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) On 7/8/2014 at 3:34 PM, clovis said: Do you have a set of die files? One of the handiest tools I've ever owned; both for model building and in the real world. I agree 100%, also a set of riffler files will work as well. Edited July 8, 2014 by kitbash1
sjordan2 Posted July 8, 2014 Posted July 8, 2014 Yours looks excellent. You might want to look at post #139 here and ask Mike how he did it. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=88468&page=7
jbwelda Posted July 8, 2014 Posted July 8, 2014 the secret is to sneak up on them from the underside. thin that material enough and the vents will open themselves. a little cleanup with an xacto should be all that is needed if things work out perfectly. sorry if this has already been mentioned but I have always found it the only way to achieve this look jb
Harry P. Posted July 8, 2014 Posted July 8, 2014 On 7/8/2014 at 11:19 PM, jbwelda said: the secret is to sneak up on them from the underside. thin that material enough and the vents will open themselves. a little cleanup with an xacto should be all that is needed if things work out perfectly. sorry if this has already been mentioned but I have always found it the only way to achieve this look jb Exactly right. Thin from behind... just like opening up a grille. The slots will basically open themselves up automatically and perfectly follow the edges of the engraved surface depressions.
Belugawrx Posted July 9, 2014 Posted July 9, 2014 On 7/2/2014 at 3:57 AM, Belugawrx said: It helps to file, sand the underside to make it thinner ,..like paper thin to aid in the removal of the styrene, Try it on a donor ,..first! Cheers think it was already said keep tryin' Cheers
Miatatom Posted July 9, 2014 Posted July 9, 2014 Here's what I use and I like it. http://www.radubstor...products_id=329
mnwildpunk Posted July 9, 2014 Posted July 9, 2014 A lil late to the party but someone can't remember who did a great job when they cut out the vents and added a mesh from MCG or something to thar effect I'll try and find a link I want to say it is in the c.P.b area straight six build I think
astroracer Posted July 9, 2014 Posted July 9, 2014 Jewelry suppliers have a huge selection of tools that can be used for modeling. I have a couple sets of the reamers and use them all the time. Check out this site and look through all of the sections. Tons of tools here. http://www.beadaholique.com/c-62077-cutters-and-files.aspx Go to Michael's or JoAnne's and look through their beading and jewelry departments. Mark
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