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Henry J Twin Turbo - Didn't see that coming..........


Codi

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I have oficially quit the model building hobby. I'm going to build a scaled house and have a garage fire with my small collection after looking at the level of detail and craftsmanship that Tim has put into this. Nothing that I've ever seen comares to it, which is absolutely AMAZING!

Tim

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Hi everyone, I want to thank you for your posts and interest in the Henry build. It's taking a bit longer than I had hoped or anticipated but I'm taking my time to learn new things on this build. Now it's time to finally layout the chassis design itself. I'm leaning towards making it out of brass but on a build in 1/25th, soldering becomes a bit tricky because of the close proximity of the soldered joints. Nothing more frustrating than having a joint come apart while attempting a new one. If that doesn't work out too well, then it wil be plastic.

Oh, and it's not going to be a ProMod....it'll be built as a Top Sportsman.

Thanks again,

Tim

If you use several temperatures of solder you can avoid the problem of stuff coming apart or use resistive soldering.

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Dave/Mike& Tim...Thanks for you compliments. Dave, a special thanks for all your help and insights.

Bob, I use resistance soldering and did so on my Willy's. I have different sized tips that I use for the tighter spaces and that require less solder. I suspect that it will help on this build as well. Today I spent a few hours exploring methods of setting up brass tubing for drilling holes in straight lines on my mill. Used center drills (size 00) and they came out very well. It's important as I'm going to probably use 2mm tube for the two main bottom rails and then 1/16" tube for the other "main" rails. Then to tie them all together, I'm planning on using 3/64" rod. Those scale out to 2" and 1.6" and 1.2" frame rails in 1:1. Pretty accurate all in all to a real chassis. I might drop the 2mm and just use all 1/16". The next thing I want to figure out before getting started is how to tie in the 3/64" rod that runs diagonally to the parallel vertical and horizontal rails...if that makes any sense. That's probably the trickiest part in my estimation. Once I'm convinced that I can pull that off.......then I can move forward with the rest of my planning.

Cheers to all of you!

Tim

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Hi Mitch, there's a link at the bottom of my posts when you log in to this site that will direct you to my albums. Or just do a Fotki member search: I'm listed as Steppenwolf56

Cheers,

Tim

Thanks Tim! Does your nickname happen to refer to the old rock band from the late 60's? Us ex-hippies gotta stick together! I was thinking that styrene would still make an acceptable chassis without compromising the integrity of the build, but with the expertise and equipment you've got go for whatever you feel comfortable with. Check out DragRacingUnderground.com for a VHS called "Mod Squad" which chronicles the early days of top sportsman/pro mod and NOS vs. blowers. With the Soff Seal '57 Chevy, Christine and "Animal" Jim Feuer leading the way against Jim Oddy, Scotty Cannon and other blower turn-coats, it's definitely a nice piece of nostalgia and even has Ronnie Rox's NOS Comet laying down some nice high 6 sec. runs!

Mitch

Edited by MitchP
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys, i've not posted pics lately as I've been working through the chassis design and build techniques before I get started. I've ordered a couple of new tools that should assist with the build as I'm committed to doing the chassis in brass afterall. I've also turned to Dave (comp1839) for insights on building a "correct" chassis for the car. He's a true wealth of information and he's helped tremendously in clearing up certain misperceptions I had about chassis design and rules for this particular car. There is so much stuff that must fit in the car and as I've stated before, space is at an extreme premium on this particular build. I'll post pics next week if all goes according to plan.

Cheers,

Tim

btw, the chassis jig should be helpful but I did discover that all steel is not the same. I was practicing some new techniques of soldering on an older sheet of steel and ended up with solder splatter and blobs on the steel and the brass I had just soldered together was stuck to the steel sheet....."huh" I said....so I flipped it over and it was marked as "weld steel"....I got out another sheet of steel that was marked as plain ol' steel and had no such issues. Obviously there are different grades / types of steel and "weld" steel doesn't work for the jig. I bought the regular steel that I made the jig out of at Tractor Supply for those interested. It's 16 gauge.

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Hi everyone, very small update. Packaging is tight in the backhalf of the car as Henry J's don't have much trunk space to begin with. So I decided to open up the trunk area for display purposes. I came up with a design I liked, cut it out and made up a brass trunk lid in place of the cutout piece. And I am going to have to do my battery boxes for a 3rd time to make them more space efficient. 2 steps forward, 1 back. Cheers, Tim

HenryJTwinTurboTrunkFab001-vi.jpg

HenryJTwinTurboTrunkFab009-vi.jpg

What did you cut the brass with?

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David, a band saw in this instance. I do use lightweight tin shears at times. I cut the lid out and used tape to transfer the shape of the opening to a sheet of brass, Then I cut it out and shaped the lid and cleaned up the edges. Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Tim

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi, some updates on "Henry". Like many others, my previous post was lost but these pics will bring the build up to date. Next step is to machine some collectors and do the plumbing for the inters. Cheers, Tim

The chassis fitment to the body so far is glove tight.

yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2004-vi.jpg

An overall shot of the chassis

yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2034-vi.jpg

Shot of the inters on their mounts and the drive shaft hoop with the push-pins installed.

yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2045-vi.jpg

Detail of the hoop seperated and the accompanying push-pins.

yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2042-vi.jpg

A different angle of the bottom and rear.

yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2062-vi.jpg

Penny Shot

yJTwinTurboBrassChassisFab2074-vi.jpg

Edited by Codi
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Derrick, Stan and Joe.....thank you for the nice comments & your continued interest on the build.

Chris(Mooneyz) I saw your post on your tins and what happened. Sorry you have to deal with that, but like you pointed out, it's "only" the one that needs to be made again and not all of them. But I felt your pain as a build as involved as yours, it can get disheartening to have even a minor set back when you're getting close to completing it. Keep your great attitude and thanks for sharing the info so others might avoid the same mistake. And thanks for your compliments on Henry.

John.(Mr. Teresi) ....I'm so glad you like it. At the rate I'm going, you'll be able to follow this build for a LONG time. I have some cool things I want to do along the way yet and I've come to the conclusion that it won't be done by summer 2015 afterall. Thanks again!

Gene, sorry, "inters" is an abbreviation for intercoolers. They take the air from the turbos and literally chill it before routing it to the intake. My challenge is to make collectors and plumbing that take 4 pipes and merge them into 2 for space reasons. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Tim

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Tim,

I haven't been following along for a while, and well, it's been my loss! Your brass work on the frame is great, as is, well... everything! What a pleasure to view this thread. I can learn a few things here.

-Art

Edited by Art Laski
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