customline

I just showed yours to Wifey. She said "Oh, I have one in my Amazon cart"......Big surprise ?. How do you like it? Maybe I'll have her add one more for me. Does it leave residue?

I tried. I couldn't find anything on this but my search skills aren't the greatest. I'm compelled to pass this along because it's a sticky ? subject and I know there are builders that have not yet found a way to deal with the problem of positioning tiny smooth, clear, or plated parts. I have tried different things for getting clear headlight lenses installed into the bezels correctly and a few of them will get it done but my generously equipped wife supplied me with a tool she uses in paper crafting that has become my go-to for all tiny parts placement. I'm sure many of you have it in your arsenal but some of us stubborn types need a little push sometimes. The little green tip is "sticky" just enough to pick up and hold a headlight lense or a '39 Ford tail light or a gas cap for a '50 Chevy 3100. You can get it at many craft and hobby outlets and there is a double-ended version for those wanting "top of the line" ?. When the sticky starts to get lazy, you just wash with mild soap and wawa and let it dry. You will love it!

Ahhh...okay, I feel compelled to add my 2 cents. First, the Chianti got my interest. Then the Thunderbird thing had me smiling. And then Can-Con Steve hits us with liver and Fava beans and I was on the floor ???. I can't believe this thread churned up so much emotion (other than my laughter, of course.) It got a little tense, boys. ?. What's wrong with using "found" items and materials if it makes you happy to do so? (This is a rhetorical question and does not require an answer.) ?.

I think it's strange that the current issue of this kit does not show the deuce grille in the instructions but it is in the kit! ? . Go figure.

I lowered the front by moving the axle behind the spring. That necessitates 2 distinct modifications if the headlight/shock mounts are attached in the original locations; shocks must be shortened and be attached behind the mount. When preparing to locate the mounts I noticed the "channelled" frame (that I'm using) didn't have the correct notches to accept the mounts. I checked the instructions to see if maybe there was a different set of mounts for that frame. Nope. Both frames use the same mounts. Why, then, does "my" frame have locators different from the highboy frame? I compensated by adding a bit of sheet stock to the very bottom of the mount. I wish I had spotted this before painting the frame. If you build this current issue of this kit, you will see the highboy (deuce) frame provides notches for the mounts. The "B" frame has "recesses" that won't accept the double step of the mounts.

Your feeling about the intake is the same as mine, Paul. It was glued on earlier but I removed it. It's kinda ridiculous. The "Dirty Donnie" kit provided a cross-ram and a single quad factory type along with this looney tunnel-ram. The side-ways dual-feeds looked ridiculous so I replaced them with ones from the parts box but it doesn't look much better. The hemi has to stay but the intake is definitely under review. I just need to go through some kits to find something more.....reasonable. I have a few Mopar kits around here. It's a fluid situation. As far as the "face" goes, yes the deuce is king but I wanted to do something a bit different (but it's still a strong candidate.) That '31 shell is tempting and I think it looks better than the kit piece. I built the original version of this kit using a crappy AMT deuce grille so maybe ?.......we'll see......I appreciate your honest input and please don't hesitate to jump in any time.

A little progress for today: rear springs and front radius rods in place. Front brake lines installed. Shock/light mounts and the modifications necessary to make it happen....As I was checking out the fit of the mounts I noticed the frame notches that accept the mounts are not correct. I checked the highboy frame and they were correct. I only mention this to warn the next guy. I added some plastic to facilitate the installation but you may have better ideas so consider this a heads-up. Of course the shocks needed shortening, ? but because my axle has been moved rearward, the shocks needed a little extra work to attach them to the rear of the mount. All quite tedious. I mounted the lights with 5 minute epoxy for the benefit of making adjustments while it cures (I hate that part) ?. They look okay but my eyes....? I have yet to decide which face ? ? ☺️ to put on this coupe. I will be forced to decide when the paint work is done and it's the only thing left to be done. Thanks for looking and your comments are always appreciated.

Mini update: glued front end to frame and added tie rod. Painted headers. Temporarily glued dash to make better fitting of inner panels for mockup and creation of firewall. Replaced carbs with different units for a better look (IMHO). Detailed '34 grille (aluminum BMF & flat black wash.) The truck grille is not a done deal yet but it will get painted along with the deuce shell and a '29. I'll figure out the winner after all paint work and assembly. '41 Plymouth tail lights are being considered along with the usual suspects. Thanks for looking.?

More from today. Back wheels attached (glued - that's how I roll). Completed right side header. Glued "pumpkin" to axle housing. Experimented with '34 pickup grille- comments welcome! Mock-up time! '34 shell will need a little trim on the bottom to drop it about 1/8" and possibly shortening front to back 1/8" because it seems a bit heavy. I'm not liking the tunnel ram, it seems like too much for the rear tires. A single 4 or 2x4 on a "normal" high-rise or maybe the cross-ram would be more appropriate. Six 97s would be great but I haven't got 'em. I dunno. Thoughts??

I don't claim my method is the only way to do this, it's just the way I did it today. I'm sure there are modellers here that have a better way so this is not intended as a tutorial. It's just the easiest way for me. Today. I started by ripping off the factory cast manifolds that I had glued on previously and drilled holes in the heads to accept the solder. I inserted and glued lengths of solder with thick CA and positioned them in approximate angles. The hemi heads have exhaust ports angled in an almost overhead attitude ? so the solder is swept up after the CA has cured to clear the frame. I like to use cheap, wood handle artist brushes for the ferrules. Cut off, drilled out, used Dremel, and filled crimp dimples with thick CA and accelerator and then sanded. all "welded" up and ready for paint, which will be flat or semi black. I don't see a need for flanges because at this point it's too difficult to add them and make it look good. Standing next to it, they can't be seen anyway. Maybe just paint them individually at the ports. Now I need to deal with this mess I made priming the body. ? . Thanks for your interest and all comments welcome as usual.

Looks like you had a great day in the sun Bob, ?! You got some great shots of some really nice machinery. The deuce 5W looks period perfect with the motorcycle fenders and the nailhead, white firewall and rims. Love the T-bird too. Awesome Dart with quads popping through the hood.....wow. And that red Chevy pickup! (That's a really beautiful ride you got there!)

I appreciate that, Carl. The lesson here is stuffing a 426 hemi into Revell's "B" chassis (the channelled version) has some pitfalls. Also, don't paint till you get those problems sorted. It's one lesson I just won't learn ?. Yesterday I began the process of creating headers from solder and paint brush ferrules. It's pretty much the only way I can go now. My parts box isn't rich in exhaust headers, but a fairly convincing set can be made this way. ?. Thanks for your interest, may we both benefit.

This is how I wish I had painted the one I built! Absolutely excellent!

Gee, Carl, I hope you're not too disappointed ?. I've made a bit of a mess. Completely normal. It'll be fine.

IDid a bit more today. Watch out when attaching the roof. I didn't see it till ....well, you can see....also I repainted the frame in silver(Krylon metallic silver) because I think it will look better with the Icy Blue and then I started thinking "two tone"....I dunno....anyway, here's what I got. Oh, and I won't be using the factory exhaust manifolds. this is not going to work....this is normal for me. Thanks for looking. ?

If I had a prize to give you for this, you would be the winner of the entire catalog of Moebius movie monster kits ! ? But unfortunately the only thing you have won is a heart-felt "Good eyes, Greg!" Sorry. ☺️ I just thought I'd have a little fun. I don't know why there were no ignition wires on that thing (it doesn't look like a trailer queen to me), maybe the owner had a problem on the way in and headed to Auto Zone for a tune up kit. ?

Mini-update: Engine painted and partially assembled, looking forward to detailing ?. Wheels assembled and fronts attached to axle (the rears will not include finned drums because they don't show and they will be used on the front of subsequent build.) The kit firewall will be superceded by a cleaned-off, "chromed" unit with minimal attachments (master cylinder, maybe the coil). No decision yet on further top chop but leaning away now and filler will probably be used regardless. The radiator is painted to look like a modern aluminum type (with electric fan) so blacking out the front on the chrome kit piece won't make sense. This sort of stuff bothers me ? and I may try something else for a radiator/grille treatment, possibly the '34 pickup unit just to be different ?. Also considering color change on frame to a glossy silver. I love this "Icy Blue" color. Can't wait to see it on the body. Here's a quick mock-up. The split wishbone will be supplanted by the four-link you see sitting on the block to be more consistent with the updated look of the rear coil-over set-up. The use of the massive engine will necessitate re-engineered steering linkage and the cast headers supplied with the hemi will probably be used unless I can find something better in my parts box. Thanks for looking ?.

I was just looking at pictures of Model A hemi powered coupes and I spotted something odd. Can you find what's wrong with this picture?

Hope so, Bob. The coil-over rear sorta spoils the old-timey attitude and a 426 street hemi brings the build era into the '70s but the channelled body and steel wheels drag it back into the '50s...?.....it's going to be strange, Bob, for sure. A real 21st century look, but with the skelletonized interior saying "still under construction."

The engine choice for today is one I borrowed from Dirty Donnie. It's the '70 Super Bee 426 with tunnel ram and dual quads and 4 speed. It's a tight squeeze but perfectly doable (I hope.) Yesterday I visited H L and came home with AMT's '34 pickup. I looked it over and found some useful things in the box but not for this coupe because the timing was not good. I have a few hot rod projects swimming around in my head including the '34 pickup. There will be much parts swapping in the future ?.....I also came home with 2 rattle cans of Testors Extreme Lacquer in "Icy Blue" and "Turquoise ". This coupe will get the blue. I sprayed the steel wheels with it today. In the sun, that paint is spectacular ? ! ! I have all but decided to take a little more off the top. I'm leaning that way but will evaluate once the engine is complete. I don't want the top of the engine higher than the roof ?. A 1/8" slice should be okay. Comments always welcome.

I built this kit several years ago, it's a pretty decent kit. I had, I think, an early version and the grille/bumper was not correct. Have you discovered this? They corrected it in the later versions so if you have a GTX in the middle of the grille, you're good! If not, you have a hemi Roadrunner ? . You're off and running, good luck, the paint scheme sounds great!

OK, I got the front axle fixed, moved the spring in front of the axle because the radius arms needed a place to land. I think it looks legit, but you be the judge. No mods to the crossmember yet and hopefully not at all (other than the bottom edges were sanded a bit on the corners.) The recesses on the inside frame rails that locate the radius arms (split wishbones) were filled because they can't be used now due to axle relocation to the rear. Thanks for your interest! After separation, the spring was drilled and brass wire inserted. Evergreen strip stock provides tiny mounting blocks, drilled and glued to axle. The top leaf was removed from the spring for a bit more drop. I hope this gets me the look I want because if not.....suicide! (I actually like the way suicide front ends look ?) Some Molotow chrome takes care of the mess and I still have a nice chrome front end ?

It is, Greg, and I built the first edition of it when it first hit the market. They cheapened it a bit but, basically, it's the same. The big thing for this issue is the nailhead Buick which is cool but I personally would have liked something a little cooler, like a flattie with some esoteric speed parts. And a manual gearbox. And a quick-change rear hanging on a buggy spring. But that's just me. I don't want to spend 25 bucks for a kit and then buy 3 more kits and a few aftermarket parts just to build a traditional style hot rod Model A coupe. There, I said it! Oh, and there's a really old-timey checkered decal for each firewall. Good one, Revell! Where's the buggy spring? ?

Glad you are, Paul. Welcome!

Didn't you just build one of these? Seems like everybody has. I can't keep up with it all. ? My feeling about this kit is it's not the same as the first version. The quality seems a bit off. And no wheel option. ?