ModelcarJR

Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your comments and I am sorry that I haven't posted but I have been unable to reach Modelcarsmag. for about two months except intermittently. I am at a Best Buy store right now accessing the website. I am getting a new modem tomorrow at home so I hope that fixes the problem. I'll be back! 😎 t

Thanks, everyone! I am so sorry I haven't responded and haven't been able to post for about 2 months except intermittently. I have a new modem coming tomorrow and hopefully I will rejoin all of you soon. Right now I am at Best Buy using there system. I'll be back! 😎

Is there any reason I am blocked on my home computer on this website? Either way please contact me at rossio@sbcglobal.net to let me know. I have a new modem coming from AT&T tomorrow that I hope will solve the problem, if in fact, I am not being blocked by the Modelcarsmag.com website. I am at a Best Buy store now and I am not being blocked on their network so I think it is my modem. Thanks! John Rossio

Thanks, David, Jim, Alan, Carl, Chris, and Larry! I appreciate your comments and I certainly have missed seeing everyone's work on this website! I was on the phone with the Geek Squad again this morning trying to get access to this website! Its getting to be a bit annoying. I hope it is the last of that frustration! Thanks again!

Thanks, David, Larry, Dennis and Bob! I appreciate your comments! 😎

Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your comments!

I have been on the phone and computer with the Geek Squad getting access to this website today. Don't know what is going on with this computer or this website but its getting pretty exasperating. Here is the latest model car I've built over the last few weeks when I thought the website was down for transition to new servers. Its painted with Dupli-Color Dark Toreador Metallic, which is not close to any Chevy color for 1969. So its a Day 2 or retro-mod. Engine is wired and plumbed with heater hoses and a fuel line, I also added a photo of my fleet of 3 69 Chevelles. One in Daytona Yellow and another in Bahama blue metallic. Thanks for looking! 😎

I haven't been on this forum for about a month because on or about November 20th, I received a message from this website that it had been hacked and the forum was moving to new servers. Ever since then I have been trying to log on with no result other than timing out. I got in touch with someone else on the site and he said it was working. So, I had to call the Geek Squad to get me back on this website. Strange to say the least. But I still have been busy building and here is a Heller kit that I have had for at least 35 years, unsealed in the closet. I was concerned with the decals and if they would work but I gave them a coat of clear lacquer and although they were a bit yellowed they worked fine for the most part. Its built box stock and the paint is Tamiya Light Blue and Yellow. Fairly complicated instructions but I got through them and it built up fine despite its lack of pins, etc. Thanks for looking! 😎

I haven't been on this forum for about a month because on or about November 20th, I received a message from this website that it had been hacked and the forum was moving to new servers. Ever since then I have been trying to log on with no result other than timing out. I got in touch with someone else on the site and he said it was working. So, I had to call the Geek Squad to get me back on this website. Strange to say the least. But I still have been busy building and here is a Lindberg 1934 Ford Pickup, built as a Stake Bed truck. Its built box stock except for the taillights, backup lights added to the end plate on the floor of the truck and the gas filler tube that I substituted because the original piece was gone. The paint is Dupli-Color Bright Red over a dark gray primer to darken it a bit. The stake bed was painted with a base of Krylon Brown Boots followed by a blackwash and various shades of brown dabbed it with a brush. It turned out pretty nice and the hood closure is the best I have seen in one of these 30s kits. Not bad for a very basic kit that was marked down years ago to $8.39. Thanks for looking! 😎

I haven't been on this forum for about a month because on or about November 20th, I received a message from this website that it had been hacked and the forum was moving to new servers. Ever since then I have been trying to log on with no result other than timing out. I got in touch with someone else on the site and he said it was working. So, I had to call the Geek Squad to get me back on this website. Strange to say the least. But I still have been busy building and here is an AMT 1953 Ford Pickuap that I don't think was posted before, at least I can't find it. Basically built box stock except for the tires and wheels, plus I added Mexican blanket seat covers. I use these Halibrand style big wheels because they had plenty of surface to glue the wheels to the hups where I thought they should go, not necessarily where the axles are. Other than that, it went together pretty well. Paint is Tamiya Coral Blue. Thanks for looking! 😎

This is the Revell Hertz kit that I originally painted a Dupli-Color Silver Blue that wasn't blue enough so I added a mist coat of Dupli-color Bahama Blue Metallic and now I guess its a lighter, light blue metallic. The interior is black. No detailing and I sanded off the V8 emblem and Mustang lettering on the front fenders as they were faint and would be hard to foil. I don't have a decal for them. Other than that build box stock. The last photo shows 3 different shades of blue for the Mustangs I recently built. The 71 351 in Tamiya Light blue, that I call Grabber Blue, the 71 Mach 1 in Bahama Blue Metallic, a light metallic blue and this one that I call a lighter, light blue metallic. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Andy, Carl, and Len! I appreciate your comments! I must admit that I know very little about Mustangs. In fact, I have never owned a Ford, let alone a Mustang. But my wife has a 66 Mustang in the garage, a coupe, and it has a wood grain dash and glove box panels in it and no pony interior. Maybe it was aftermarket. She might have even added it. I know she bought a new steering wheel and had it installed but that was 20 years ago so I'll ask her but she probably doesn't remember either. Or maybe coupes were different from fastbacks? I don't know or as my Grandson's would say, IDK. This one is done! I didn't add the V8 emblem on the front fender or the pony badge with Mustang lettering. Both were very faintly molded so I sanded them off and don't have a decal for them. Went together OK and is just another to add to the collection. The last photo is a comparison of paint for recently built Mustangs. The 71 351 is Tamiya light blue that I call Grabber Blue and it must have been pretty convincing because it received a theme award for Best Mustang in Show in Houston. The Mach 1 is Bahama Blue Metallic which is a light blue metallic in my estimation. And then there is this build, which I guess is lighter light blue metallic built mostly box stock. Thanks for looking! ?

Interior is done, engine is done and in the chassis, interior and chassis have met the body. Now I just need to find some wheels. I used the ones in this kit for the AMT 71 Mustang Mach 1 that I recently built. But it shouldn't be a problem. I have plenty in the parts box. Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, Len! that's what I was shooting for. In my camera it looks more blue. And thanks, Carl and Bob! I appreciate your comments too!

Thanks again, everyone! I appreciate your comments! ?

Looks great, David! I can't believe you spent only 52 hours on this one. It would take me a lifetime! Nice work! And I love the Pearl Green paint! ??

Really cool ol' school build! Nice! ??

Beautiful build, Eric! Love the paint finish! Nice work! ??

You're right! It looks much darker in the photos than it actually looks to the eye. Its much lighter but maybe it is too blue. the interior is black. Thanks for looking! ?

This is the Hertz kit that I am not going to build with the gold stripe. Been there, done that poorly. But I've had the kit for awhile and recently found a can of Dupli-color Silver Blue for $3 at Ollie's. So I thought I would give it a try. Turns out it was more silver than blue, a Honda color. So I thought I would just give it a mist coat of Bahama Blue Metallic to see if I could create a silver blue, a color for 1966 Ford. It looks a little blochy under the light, but as my wife pointed out under normal light it looks even and sparkly! I took that to mean metallic so I thought why not - leave it as is! So I painted the inner engine bay and all the other parts and now its foiled. I am not going to do any detail on this one just do it box stock. So now I will have a silver blue Mustang the hard way! Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your comments!

I don't know what happened to my text but I am not going to recreate it as it was 2 paragraphs long. Let's just say that I tried to use the Duster 340 chassis with an engine from the 68 Dodge Charger that became a 383. The chassis and inner fender liners worked out fine up front but the rear suspension was off quite a bit getting the wheels centered in the wheel openings which lead to destruction of the rear suspension and the cure was similar to slotted metal axles in the rear and the tailpipe extensions are glued to the chassis. Thanks for looking! ?

Looks good, Dan! ??

This one is done except for decals and a few other minor parts like exterior mirrors and backup lights. There are a lot of parts in the engine bay so it took a little longer to finish today. The body, foil, engine bay, interior and wheels all turned out OK so I guess its not too bad. a couple of things I would do differently it I did it all over again: 1. use a shorter 440 engine for a 383 or use the one in this kit. 2. If using the Duster 340 chassis, make sure not to try to use the pins on the inner fenders in the holes in the frame. Remove the pins and move the frame about 1/8" forward and remove the frame horns. 3. Assemble the entire chassis and make sure to line up BOTH suspensions in the wheel openings of the body with wheels on. I'll finish the decals in the next day or two and move on to the next one! Thanks for looking! ?

Thanks, David and Carl! I appreciate your comments! I finished the detailing on the interior yesterday early and then turned to installing the windows and mounting the interior in the body and body on the chassis. Unfortunately, that's where the cookie crumbles! I installed the interior with no problems but when gluing the chassis to the body my thought from the beginning was to use the locator pins on the inner fenders in the holes of the chassis to make the glue joint easier. I did that and the engine looks good in the engine bay so everything looks good up front. But the rear axle was very short of center of the wheel opening. I tried to adjust by moving the springs forward but it wasn't enough to center the wheel in the openig so in order to do more I had to take out the exhaust pipes from the muffler back remove the driveshaft and unfortunately broke the shocks taking them out So I mounted the springs way forward and I am not replacing or putting everything back at this point. Maybe if I had used another engine that wasn't as thick up front, i.e., water pump and fan assembly, there would have been more room to move the chassis forward and solve the problem. But I couldn't move the engine back anymore so the chassis has to stay where it is as there is little to no room up front. If I were to build it again, I would use a different engine than the Revell 68 Charger 440 and ignore the pin placements and move the chassis further forward. But as my father always said "hind sight is always 20-20 and maybe half a loaf is better than none!" By the way, Round 2 added an extra set of 5-spoke wheels that are not a part of the chrome tree and a four blade fan. I used these wheels and the tires from the MPC kit (whitewalls that I turned around) and the wheelbacks from the Duster kit to fit the hubs of the axles. I should have used the four blade fan too because now I have to remove the radiator to drill an new hole at the left corner of the radiator and make a top hose to fit in order to avoid contact with the bigger fan blades. So now I'll finish the rest of the hardware, decals and glue the tailpipe extensions to the chassis floor to stick out the rear! Thanks for looking! ?