dmk

I remember building that kit when it first came out. I just polished the body with car wax. It was a nice kit.

The interior looks beautiful! Thanks for the details about the kit.

That is a nice build. I like the color. I just saw one of these on the road a while back. We were next to each other in heavy traffic. It's a beautiful car in person. The one I saw was silver. That same day I saw this kit in Hobby Lobby. I got something else that day, but still need to pick this one up. Was the kit a pretty smooth build?

I never liked the car in the remake. To me she would have been much sweeter as an all original GT500.

I'd take anything I could get at cost & free or no shipping.

That's a fair price actually once what you figure shipping cost would be, plus Ebay is going to take their cut from him.

Thanks Casey. I seem to have misunderstood your earlier post. I see what you meant now. Also the new Opel.

This is the first I've heard of these. Where are these for sale? I've seen the AMT Parts Paks for the two sizes of Racemaster slicks, the Pie Crusts and the whitewall Firestones, but I haven't seen Polyglass GTs in a Parts Pak yet.

Those were cool Rat Rods. Especially the pickup and the three window the brunette was driving.

I was wondering when they would get around to doing a Z-28 again. I'm really surprised they hadn't done one much sooner. Nice to see them getting back to a lighter performance car.

I have most of one of these kits in the parts bin. I plan on bashing it with the '90s Mustang GT Convertible kit for the engine, drivetrain, suspension, and wheels. I'd love to find a kit of the premier '55 T-bird and build it stock though.

I always save the long straight sections of sprue and any decent clear sections. Good for scratch building and making stretched sprue. Also save the plastic center section from Q-tips. Just cut the cotton ends off. You can stretch this also like you can sprue and make hollow tubing of various thickness.

Unless you are trying to replicate tires that are under inflated, car tires really don't squish that much. Especially lighter cars. I don't think it is noticeable in scale. Look at that Charger in the picture for example.

Same here. I open every kit and repack the parts. After a bad roof leak one time that trashed decals and instruction sheets, I put the decals inside the instruction sheet and put them in one ziplock baggie and the tires in another. Just to be safe, I repack the box with the baggie of tires on the bottom, lay the instruction sheet on top of them and all the styrene parts on top of that. The tires in no way touch any plastic parts, the decals are protected from scratches and dampness/water. It's cheap insurance. I've noticed some kits now have the tires sealed in their own plastic bags, but not always.

Cool! Thanks for the quick reply Harry. So a guy could have put a set on a new '57 Chevy then.

I'd like to put headers on a '57 Chevy, but would like to build it as a period Hot Rod. When were tubular headers first available to a regular guy on the street?

Nice restorations! I especially love the freestyle markings on the drag car.

Those Cobras are pretty tough. They were built to go into harms way and get shot at. Survivability was part of the design.

I agree. I've used their replacement parts service quite a few times. Plus they make some really great kits! If given the choice between Revell or another company's kit of the same subject, I always prefer Revell.

It depends on the type of suspension used. You can sometimes replace the kit leaf springs with scratch built ones that have a flatter curve. http://offroadmodels.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=howto&action=display&thread=153 You can replace the kit coil springs with scratch built shorter ones. http://offroadmodels.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=howto&action=display&thread=33 Check your references. For example, I'm currently "hot rodding" a '37 Ford Panel. I Googled online for suspension pictures from hot rods and found that most often, a rear 4 link suspension with coil-overs is used to replace the OEM transverse leaf spring setup. I have to scratch build that and make my own coil-overs (using the technique from that link above). For the front, I kept the OEM type suspension. Some hot rods just move the axle spindle up, lowering the chassis in the front. I chose to raise the leaf spring chassis mount by filing it down. Look around at different hot rods and chassis fabricators on the web. There are many ways to lower a car.

That's really cool! Thanks for sharing your techniques with us.

Beautiful build. How did you clean up the molded in exhaust? I can't even see where they were.

The whole Rat Rod craze does help us out sometimes, doesn't it? Came out nice in the end.

Thanks guys. I'll have to look more into it. These seems more complicated than I thought.

I was looking at these HOK starter kits at TCP Global. Specifically the Kandy Starter kit: http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/hokkits.aspx#kandykit I've noticed though that they don't come with a clear top coat, although it says that it is "pre-blended to HOK Standards with SG100 intercoat clear" Do I need a clear top coat with these? If so, which one? They list three different ones.