THarrison351

Good progress today. Sadly a part is missing after four years of storage and moving. I don't know, maybe it was lost before and I've forgot. I've slept since then. The generator/power steering unit is no where to be found. I could get in touch with Moebius for a replacement. We'll see. I can add it later. I'm a little disappointed in the decals and lack there of. They could have had better registration and the instrument gauges should be silver instead of off white. It would have been nice to have decals for the hubcaps and front and rear emblems. As you can see, I am using the hubcaps because I felt they visually looked more to scale then the wire wheels. Plus, it seems like everyone uses the wire wheels in their builds. I also cleared the body in Future. More to come.

Thanks, and I agree, the mirrors could have been on the chrome tree. They also need an interior rearview mirror. I used my Molotow pen and they look pretty good.

Looks great. I'm glad to see some '70 Chargers now that a decent looking kit has come out. Can't wait for the stock release.

Thanks, I did absolutely nothing with the Chrysler today. The paint is Tamiya Racing White. It turned out to be the closest to Chrysler platinum in my eyes. Tamiya paints always come out so smooth as long as the surface is well prepped. The foil turned out well. I purchased a new sheet yesterday. I would have bought two more, but the other two were damaged. The weather was fantastic, so I took advantage and painted my Mustang convertible. I'll be working all weekend, so I'll be back at on Monday.

Great combo, like they were made for each other.

Very sharp.

Somehow, I'm not surprised.

So I've been trying to get back into building models again by starting off with simple pre-finished kits, or kits with few parts. I needed some inspiration. The last couple of years all I have built were Revell's snap kits, a couple of old Lincoln Mint diecast Harleys, and one old AMT annual. I started this kit 4 years ago, but I was sent to Canada to get our then new CSeries CS 100 test aircraft ready for first flight. A new home, several more trips to Canada and I was hoping by now I would have my own hobby room to work and display my stuff. Well, this kit is mostly done, it just needs to be finished. Today I foiled the body. Tried out some Molotow pens for touch up. Very impressive. I had used them on some recent kits, but I hadn't used it to touch up BMF. It works great. More to come.

So I've been trying to get back into building models again by starting off with simple pre-finished kits, or kits with few parts. I needed some inspiration. The last couple of years all I have built were Revell's snap kits, a couple of old Lincoln Mint diecast Harleys, and one old AMT annual. This kind of falls in line with the Lincoln Mint diecast, but it may be too simple. It was designed for kids in mind. It comes with two sets of wheels (chrome and black) and they are meant to be interchangeable. The detail in this kit is minimal but it's not the worst for what is essentially a toy. Most of the details are tampo? printed and others are stickers or mylar. I did some simple paint detailing to add to it. The car could use some brakes behind the wheels. My next project is a Revell snap kit and to finish a Moebius Chrysler 300 I started four years ago.

So I've been trying to get back into building models again by starting off with simple pre-finished kits, or kits with few parts. I needed some inspiration. The last couple of years all I have built were Revell's snap kits, a couple of old Lincoln Mint diecast Harleys, and one old AMT annual. This is one of the last Revell Snap kits I had not built, the other is a Mustang convertible that will be done soon when it stops raining, so I can paint it. This would have benefited from the decals that come with the ROG kit. Everything else is the same except ROG's comes with decals. The interior, wheels, brakes and underhood could really use those details. Also,these were not painted with color like the Challenger, Camaro, and Mustang, it's only cleared. My other project is to finish a Moebius Chrysler 300 I started four years ago. It's all painted, I just need to finish it. More to come.

At first I thought the tires looked off too, but after looking at some pictures of current cup cars, the problem I see see is there are no Goodyear Eagle labels on the tires and some builder still thinks its the '80s and the wheel rim edges are red. Kind of throws the proportions off.

I agree with you. Thank you for some clarification. I looked at some pictures on the interwebs. They are not always clear. I have no experience with Harley Davidsons. My knowledge is based in aircraft and automotive repair. I understand the foot-pedal is for the back brake and the right hand lever is for the front brakes. The left hand lever is for the clutch. Two cables (why two?) come from the right twist throttle and end up eventually on the throttle body between the cylinders. The kit instructions are terrible for hose, wire, cable, etc. routing. I'm not a rivet counter when it comes to building. I just wanted to help give some guidelines with mechanical assembly. The biggest problems are holes that are too small for screws, and this varies, and vagueness to where parts and when parts need to be assembled. This was my intent. I also appreciate any input to help others finish on of these kits.

My first two kits which were purchased opened, had some damage to the tank. It's no surprise given the weight and the the way shippers handle boxes. If you look at my seventh picture down, this kit which was sealed, came with a vacuum-formed tray to secure the tank. Not sure if this was a later kit and this was a result of complaints from the prior packing damage.

My two "Open but complete kits", the black Electra Glide and the red and silver Road King were around $50 on eBay plus shipping. Shipping varies from $16 to 30 depending on the seller. I had to wait patiently because some people are willing to bid crazy money on these kits. Over $100 bids on the Electra Glide many times. My silver Road king Classic was sealed and I got lucky at $60 because it ended in the daytime. Sadly. that was the one missing an important part, the air filter cover. Right now, there is a Road King on eBay for $66 plus $25 shipping. It's sealed and has no bidders. Another interesting tidbit of information. Many of these kits have stickers from when they were donated to hospitalized veterans. Two of mine have these stickers. You're both right about the master cylinder. The hoses should not come out of the top. I was lazy and you can hardly see it once everything is done. Oddly, these are what are hooked to the throttle per the instructions.

Thanks ! Yes, you are correct. The driving light lens are 90 degrees off. It bugs me too. I thought about cutting the pin off the back. That will let it rotate. Once it's done, I'm committed. My biggest fear is the hole behind will really become obvious. The lenses are held on with water soluble glue, so it can be done. I don't know who designed these kits. They did so many things really nice and really screwed up some other things really bad. I hope the dies aren't lost somewhere in China. I'd really like to see these revised again with updates.

2004 Harley-Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic If you followed the WIP, you know I didn't get a filter cover with mine. I'm still looking for one. I doctored the photos to show a filter. Glamour shot with all of them temporarily on my fireplace mantel.

Step 30 Step 31 Step 32 Step 33 Step 34 Step 35 Step 36 Step 37 Step 38 Step 39 Step 40, 41, and Final Step 42 and I messed up the stand offs (part 126L and R) on mine. They are upside down, so the mirrors are too close to the grips. The super glue was set in the mirrors and I was afraid I might break them, so they will just stay like they are.

I'm changing the pace. I will show hints as as needed. Otherwise only as steps as completed. Step 9 The oil cap (part number 30) does not fit as shown it goes like this: Step 10 The top mount (part number 35) is flipped backwards, if you install it as shown, it will be too far to mount to the frame. Step 11 You need to go ahead and install the left side cover (part number 37L) in the left frame (part number 51) otherwise there are no prompts Apparently I did not take a picture of the fender and swing-arm mounted to the frame, but you will see them in later photos. Step 12 Step 13 Step 14 Step 15 Step 16 Step 17 The amber reflectors? (part number 156) when mounted to the frame look better with a shinny silver back ground. Paint, BMF or like I did, scrape the paint. Step 18 Step 19 This part (Part number 56) will try your patience. Both of my kits these parts required filing and drilling to get this to fit. Step 20 Step 21 Step 22 Step 23 Step 24 Both sides Step 25 Step 26 Step 27 Step 28 No picture Step 29 The placement of the tubes or cables as they portray is kind of bogus. G is the clutch cable and goes through part number 86 up between the frame and crash bar to the left hand grip lever, not the bottom of the grip as shown. E1 and E2 are the front brake hoses and would merge together behind the headlamp into one hose before coming out under the triple tree handle bar mount and going into the right hand grip lever master cylinder. I bring the left side hose up, cut it short and super glue it under the handle bar mount. The throttle cables, which they are using F1 and F2, come from the foot pedal master cylinder. pass through the same way the brake hose do under the handle bars and go the the throttle. I added some bent pieces of wire to my throttle cables. I did leave the tubes too long. Now its up on two wheels. More to come.

This is a WIP on the Testors Lincoln Mint Harley-Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic. I won't be doing anymore than some simple detail painting and a change to the throttle cables. Mostly it will be clarifying the steps in the instructions, The bad news is even though this is a sealed kit, it is missing one key visible part which I'll have to purchase. I'll get to that at the bottom of the post. This post is photo intense. Here is the box, instructions, and parts as opened. Also, if you plan to strip the chrome, all will strip like normal except the motor. It it actually hard chrome plated and the best you will do is remove the black paint or melt the plastic inside The metal and rubber parts under the upper box. The Shiny stuff. The side covers being plastic, were painted with different paint that has less gloss and finer metallic particles. I cleared the side covers with Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze that I had handy and it put on a super shine. More pictures of that later This was missing in the first two kits I built and both tanks suffered scratches. Don't know why someone would remove it, or if this kit was a later addition after complaints from damage to the tanks. These are the black sprues out of the bags. The screws. My suggestion is to separate them into baggies or containers of your choice. Just remember, the course screws thread into plastic and the others (machine) into metal. Also, a good number 1 phillips screwdriver and drill bits are some times necessary to clean up or finish holes. Don't lose any screws, there are no extra. Step one and two. Parts needed and pretty easy, There is no need for glue in step one. I had to clean up the pins for the cam? cover (part 6) to fit it to the crank case. Just a note, the instructions in step 2 show the link and the spring reversed from where they need to be. Also, after the motor was completed and I was reviewing the pictures, I realized the rod is on the wrong side of the links. Too late to fix mine. I used medium super glue with an accelerator to attach shifter (part 12) to arm (part 10). I also super glued the spring to its attachment post, In some of the instruction pictures, you can see they used a screw. there is no hole, only a post. No idea why it was changed. See, the link is on the wrong side. it should face away. Step 3 is simple gluing and I used a liquid bonder after scraping paint and chrome, Step 4 is screw the tranny and motor together. I had to use a number 0 phillips because the hole for the screw was deep and narrow. Step 5 you start to use pre-cut tubing. I was missing one of the A length tubes, but they give a D length tube which doesn't attach to anything or go anywhere. So I cut that to length. Super glued the tubes in the sparkplugs and I painted the head bolts silver. Also, the area where these go should be flat black, even though the the case and cylinders were plated and painted. Step 6 I believe these are for the oil tank and will get tucked beside the right side cover and as I said before, no need for tube D. Step 7 scrape and glue. I used super glue on the rocker cover. Good luck scraping the head. Step 8 scrape and glue Step 9 is where I found out I was missing a vital visual part. When Testors manufactured these kits years ago. Several parts would receive special attention. One of them was the air cleaner cover. After plating, it was removed and would receive a tampo printing and be placed in a separate bag. Someone forgot to put mine back in the box. Kit is long out of production, so I don't think Testors has any lying around. I'm going to look for a broken kit on eBay to replace it. I can finish building everything and add it later once I get a replacement

Ok, I'm starting a WIP on the Road King Classic in another thread if anyone wants to follow along.

Sometimes, not every time, when I used clear gloss lacquer over chrome paint, the chrome paint would show tiny streaks of bleed in the clear. I'm just saying. I now spray Future with an airbrush. Well my bottle says Future, I've had it that long. It's now Pledge with Future Shine. It's acrylic and reacts with nothing I have ever had on a model.

Thanks, I will take that idea into consideration when I start the build. So much is hidden, even in this scale. I guess if I was an owner of a 1:1 I would have a better idea of what can, or needs to be seen. I'll have to rely on the web for info. Also, I'm not in a club, don't compete, I only show what I do here. most of my stuff ends up in a box, stored. Eventually I'll finish a hobby/display room in my house (yeah, right. been here three years so far and all I do is talk about it). So, because I'll only be around for few more years, relatively. I don't expect my collection to end up anywhere except some rubbish bin in the future. For now, I just build for personal satisfaction and hopefully I can help someone else complete one of these kits with less frustration. I have seen several incomplete, partially started kits on eBay since I started looking to buy my first one. The biggest problem is what to do once they are finished so you can display them. They are huge 15"x5"x10" and heavy, about 4 pounds. You could just put it on the shelf, but there are so many nooks and crannies, dusting would be troublesome. I hate dust and the residue that coats models and diecasts left out in the open. It took me a while to find a case to fit my first one. It's for full size football helmets and cost more than what I paid for the kit. There are few display cases like the one I have on the market. I only found one which had a support in the center of the platform. The rest had reviews that complained of sagging centers. Unfortunately, the Electra Glide will not fit due to the trunk. So, as long as you are not building the Electra Glide you have a dust free place to keep it. I think I might buy a cheap curio cabinet if I finish my so called hobby room. It will need strong shelves do to the weight. For now, I'll just throw a rag over it.

Also, I have one more of the series, the FLHRCI Road King Classic. I might do a WIP and give some better instructions for those who have the kit, but haven't tackled it yet. I know some people out there are still buying these kits, because It took me two years to get mine off of eBay at a price I was willing to pay.

Well, I built another one. This time its the Harley-Davidson FLHTCUI Ultra Classic Electra Glide. This one was another opened box (big mistake) that I stole off eBay. Fortunately everything was there, Unfortunately, several bags were torn open, parts unsecured and the heavier metal parts were scratched and the chrome was pretty beat up. After I recovered all the small parts, Every screw, spring and tiny metal part was loose in the box. I started the build, knowing some of the problems with the instructions or lack of. I had a couple of road blocks, I knew I would have to strip the front fender lens of the red stain and paint it amber. Easy with alcohol and Tamiya amber paint. The worst part was not enlarging some holes for the screws this time, it was actually missing holes in the front forks for the screws. I detail painted the front and rear fender bumpers,the rear foot rests, the chrome piece on the trunk and the tank. I also added some metal wire on the throttle to better represent the cables. They provided bases for the antennas but no antennas. So, I used some electric guitar "strings" to represent them. Final thoughts on this, not that it matters. The pin-striping is perfect where they put it. They just forgot to pinstripe the tops of the trunk and saddlebags. Also, somewhere the dies for these kits exist. I would love to see them back on the market with better instructions and tubing to represent the cables and hoses.