THarrison351

Bob Downie just did an article comparing Molotow, Spastix and Alclad. He also used different clear coats over each one. He used Spastix' Ultimate Clear, Alclad's Aqua Gloss and good old Pledge Floor Care with Future Shine. The best overall result was Molotow sprayed with an airbrush and coated with Spastix' Ultimate Clear. The pictures are very convincing. Not quite as bright a the parts sent to a plating service, but less expensive and you don't have to wait. I'm very impressed with my Molotow pens and as long as the parts aren't handled for a couple of days, they do hold up OK.

Looks great. And powered by Roush!

HL with a coupon, but for Mobeius I get those online. Hobbytown USA is outrageous on pricing. Usually straight up retail or more.

Well, its no longer on YouTube

I agree, those door panels look like something Bandai did back in the sixties for toys, or maybe it represents what the interior really looks like. I'm just sayin'.

OK, I edited out 1/25 1/24, my mistake, but I was clear on cars for US market. The 323s created by Aoshima and Fujima were not kitted to represent US cars.

Well, OK then. I like different too, but why not a Mazda 626 or a Mazda REPU. I'm not just saying that just because I'm a Mazda fan, those were two that quickly came to mind and were never kitted. Sadly, the only Mazdas the US market's ever had represented is the Miata and the RX-7. Great cars, I love to look at them, I can't fit in them, (too tall) but they look great. I'm sorry I'm getting off the subject. I can appreciate the want for new and different kits. I just wasn't aware there was any interest in anything from Isuzu, ever. They are famous for small, low-powered, stinky, diesels. I mean they don't even make cars anymore, just rebadged Colorados and some kind of inbred SUV Trailblazer/Colorado thingy. They've been out of the US market for 10 years. Ironically they are supposedly working with Mazda on their next generation pick up for markets outside North America.

Yours looks great and so does the Zakspeed Capri. I built the Miller version 30 plus years ago. You're right, the kit was a pleasure to build. My skills were fair at best and it turned out OK for a shelf model. Alas, it did not survive storage and was accidentally crushed. Surviving image. The others are all gone too. Remember when you could buy kits off the shelf with beer advertisements?

1974- 77 Rotary Pickup (REPU) from Mazda

Looks really good so far.

Thanks. The coupe is in a different box, and there is no boot to cover holes if you were take the top off. The sun visors are molded to the frame so they would stay.

Me too!

I had an orange HD one too and wanted a Bud Moore car. I wiped the car strategically with acetone, sanded and repainted the orange red, the roof white as it should be, new decals and I think I had to paint the hood stripe too. This is an old picture, because the car is packed away.

Here is another cheap ($10) diecast form Motormax I found at Walmart. It's not bad for a shelf model, and with some paint and foil, looks much better. The A-pillar, wheel/tire, taillight, bumper, spoiler, and color are the biggest offenders to the actual car. As you will see by the photo's, the coupe suffers worse due to the A-pillar issue. Also it says 1998, but no green Cobras were offered in 1998 and they had cup holders in the center console. This console is shaped like a 1997's. Once again, I forgot to take pictures before I took it apart, so I have to rely on the internet, and there was only photos of convertibles in boxes. (not my picture, found on the internet) Interior should be tan. Wheels are more 1995 Mustang Cobras and slightly undersized. Needs some black on the trim and the A-Pillar is too laid back (picture form carmodel.com) Hey look, the engine isn't a black blob, it's a silver blob. The headlight posts are yuuge! That roof is so wrong. I looked at a red coupe, just shook my head and put it back, it was so bad. That interior mirror post is bad too, but so many are. Remember, it's a toy first not a sophisticated replica. (picture form carmodel.com) Those taillights are so so wrong, but once again its only $10, right? The shape is wrong and they should be flush and smooth. The spoiler is bowed up too much in the center. No embossed Cobra in the bumper cover. How did they miss that? The emblems are way too big and the marker light should be flush. Here is what it looks like now: Post gone from headlight, so they look a little better. Sorry for the blurry photo, it didn't appear like that when I looked through the viewer, and I had already broke down my photo table when I downloaded the pictures. Drilled exhaust tips and a little Molotow chrome paint. See how the spoiler is bowed up? And surprise, it's brittle pot metal, so good luck bending it without breaking it or cracking the paint. I know that's not factory correct tan, but it's what I had in a spray bomb. Had a little accident with the black paint on the seat. Even with acrylics, black stains tan enamel and is hard to remove. The inner fenders, firewall, and radiator header, should be the body color, but I don't have the color on hand. The hood is always closed on the shelf anyways. Man the Molotow pens look like chrome (horse emblem). The base isn't too bad and could be enhanced with paint if I cared to do it, but its going in a case on the shelf and I'll be the only one to see it. Overall for $10, paint, foil, and a few hours of my time, it didn't turn out to bad to me.

From my experience on stripping NASCAR diecast, pretty much everything that is pad printed can be removed with acetone or lacquer thinner. These are usually less shiny than the base paint. In most cases, that was all of the graphics that was added after the baked on enamel spray paint. The frustrating part came when they changed to decals with a clear coat. Acetone, lacquer thinner, oven cleaner, or Super Clean, wouldn't harm the finish. The clear coat was almost impervious to everything, but aircraft paint stripper. Even then I would use a course sand paper on the finish to let the stripper get under the clear coat.

Logghe Chassis funny car with center steer. Unfortunately, the illustrator forgot the cage, it was in the kit.

I swing by the toy department at Walmart to check for new stock of M2 Machines in 1/24 scale because a) they're cheap and b} sometimes Walmart gets exclusive cars. So I spot a couple of interesting trucks from Motormax. One is a 79 Ford F150 longbed and the other is a 69 Ford F100 shortbed. They're only $10 each and though hardly perfect, I figured I could add some paint and foil and make them look nice on the shelf. I should have taken some before pictures, but we'll have to make due with internet pictures. 79 Ford before: (Not my picture, found on the internet) So, it's not bad in this picture. the headlight posts are noticeable, the paint is shiny, the bed upper trim is missing, however the area is painted silver. The wheels/hubcaps don't look bad until you realize the black area of the hubcap is actually open. The off white paint on mine did not go around the edges at all, so the gaps were glaringly red. Finally, they inserted the windshield from inside the cab and it did not fit. as designed. (Not my picture, found on the internet) This, this is pretty much all wrong as you can see in the next photo (Not my picture, found on the internet) (Not my picture, found on the internet) The interior as typical in Motormax cars, is all black with a sticker for the instruments. Believe it or not, it has some detail on the bottom and is a 4X4! I didn't do anything with that as you can see. It sits too low to appear to be a 4X4. So I added a little paint, fixed the windshield, foiled the trim, and painted the amber and red lenses. Here is the result: I would have liked to remove the headlight posts, but the fluting on the lens was so lightly engraved, I thought I would lose that too. Now I couldn't find the same color as mine on the internet but you'll get the meaning 68 Ford F100 Before: (Not my picture, found on the internet) Sadly, they put paint on the windshield for the trim and short of sanding and polishing, I could not get it off. So I foiled over the paint. (Not my picture, found on the internet) (Not my picture, found on the internet) Yes, they forgot to paint the taillights and the reflectors red. (Not my picture, found on the internet) Hmm, black lumps subject to interpretation. At least the distributor is in the front where it's supposed to be. (Not my picture, found on the internet) More black plastic and soft detail. Those hubcaps actually might have been an accessory for trucks in this time period. They were available in 15" for the Galaxie XL. (Not my picture, found on the internet) Just like the 79, it has some detail on the bottom and is a 4X4! I also did nothing with it as you can see. It sits too low to appear to be a 4X4. So like the 79, I added a little paint, foiled the trim, and painted the amber and red lenses. Here is the result: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, the door handles are on upside down. There's where that red goes. Yes, the air cleaner top is molded like it should have a ram air scoop above it and the valve covers are finned. The door trim is actually for a 68. I hacked off the top of the horn ring. It's not a round circle. Ready for the campground, thanks to this cool Winnebago travel trailer from Greenlight.

Still own it. My dad gave me his barely used 2006 Hyundai Azera in 2008 (1500 miles), one month before he passed. I drive it every day and will probably drive it til it dies or I die.

Somewhere on a model forum or another car enthusiast website it explained promo's. The difference between coasters, frictions, and craftsman models. I vaguely remember coasters were give-aways from the dealers. Frictions were sold at the retail store and had a friction motor to keep the car moving when it was pushed. Craftsman were purchased un-assembled promo kits with extra "Hop Up" parts to customize the car. The early plastic promos were made of acetate which when new, was shiny and very bright with color. Unfortunately, this material becomes brittle and warps with age, especially if not stored properly. Sometime around 1961 they started using Cycolac (ABS) plastic and painted the bodies.

Just click where it says created a topic

Well, the full size Fords used the 240 six which is the same engine as the truck so if the scale is correct, it should fit.

OK, I've only built the stock version. Did not know they came in the custom version. Good to know.

Why would it have 427 headers?

Well, it's not an independent rear. It's a leaf sprung live axle with traction bars, staggered shocks and what appears to be a Watts link on the back. The linkage is wrong, because the left side should attach to a mount above the axle near the spring perch, not on the axle, the right side should attach to a mount below the axle near the spring perch and their would be a traversing cross brace for the center propeller to mount to.