RyanSilva

Thanks guys! Ok ..i wanted to make the ugliest most uncomfortable seat possible.. did i pass? Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Its basically a cut up pallet, and part of the end from the bed thats on the back. Its pretty much epoxy glued together, since superglue is so brittle. Its very ugly built, you cant see it because I will be hiding it Next is the floor and seeing how high the driveshaft will be.

Thanks guys! I would never build one like this in the real world, but in scale, there perfect for creativity! Ok what i got done has been not much, but progress is progress! I cut the pallet down a plank and a half, it looks so much better now! I cut the leaf spring off the 48 ford rearend and glued it to a 41 chevy rearend. I need to make the correct spring perch though. You can see how high the rearend sits, so the cab will need to be trimmed to fit the driveshaft, along with the seats! Ive yet to make the front portion of the dash and firewall, the engine will move back almost a 1/4th inch! so this will shorten the front end up a bit. I will be using cheater slicks and the chrome steelies in the back. Up front, no clue yet. What you see is just mockup. I will be using the 32 ford grill, with the 1948 radiator. I weathered half of the dash, gotta do the drivers side of it now. then add some stickers and powders! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

When i read this title, i was gonna post Daves tutorial! Great job on that again, Ive sent it to a few friends who asked about similar questions..and they all loved your work.

I dont have any silicone mold material (need to order some) So i used clay, they made some simple one time molds to pour some resin into cylindrical shapes big enough to chuck into my dremel. Using xacto blades to cut away and shape. (yes i wear safety shield, your stupid if you dont!) anyways..im replacing the dash knobs with one, and il have a stem on the other side as the "missing knob" Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

The engine is based on a 1948 Flathead from the Revell 1948 Convertible. So far what you see is what comes with the kit. I did remove the coil that is molded into the passenger side head. These heads replicate the motorcity flathead company. I added some acylic transparent red from createx, i shoulda used the opaque but so be it. They need a little more clean up but im being to picky.. I painted them silver with a sharpie! The engine was painted up just like my tutorial, two browns were used, then baby blue. soaked it with india ink and alcohol (AI), and let it dry. I then broke out this 3 color makeup set i like to use for weathering grime. It has 2 browns and one tan, i coated the engine with the grime brown, and washed it off when it was dry with alcohol, i followed up with a bit of tan, which ended up looking like aluminum/metal wearing through. I need to continue this onto the transmission, i waited due to sizing up the dimensions for the floor. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Down and dirty it is! ------ I went and bought some munchies over at CVS today and at the counter was a balsa glider plan for 1.29..so i said what the heck and bought one, and well it hit me..im buying this cheap balsa plane with no intention of using it other than impulse buying...but what hit me was to cut the wing up for the floor of the truck! it worked, some light sanding is needed still, but i can make about 5 more floors, so im good to go. If i do use the seats they will need to be trimmed for a trans tunnel, I thought i could make it, but i will need a tunnel to set the engine back some. No biggie, just need to mod the bench seat. The dash was a pain, why? Well the decals from revell are never perfect. I had some trouble with these, they disintegrated in the water, so i had to make use of the the 4 decals rather than the 8... the other 4 were supposed to be the vent and heat on the drivers side. I added some Future floor acrylic to the tach and speed-o to give it some gloss. Thos shows why i need a tunnel. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Thanks guys! What I started to do, was mount the 1948 Ford dash, this takes some trimming thats for sure! But i can't resist the seperate chrome on the dash..which makes decaling easier. Plus there are 8 decals for the dash, that should make it stand out easier. I sanded the cab a little bit more than the door, just to give a little detail of slightly bigger parts. Next comes dents, not over done..just some baseballs and a gun shot wound here and there! ideas on colors? Im thinking baby blue or red flat head, just so it stands out..of coarse it will be fitted with grease stains. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Seats... ratty looking one or, tuck and roll? Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

The 427 cobra tires are the same ones included with the penske 427 corvette and the 1948 ford convertible, Ive done them with blue,red and gold lines,...super easy with acylics and the recessed area on the tire (like yours)

Hey you snuck in there, thanks! Next up sanding her smooth.

I added some plastic to fill in where the fenders were removed, now to make a firewall!. I cut notches to channel it over the frame. The frame I will be using is from the 41 chevy, I wanted to make a frame for that truck, so Now will be the opportunity to steal the chassis! I stole the flatty from the 50 pickup to see if it fits, and it does...good! Now to make some mounts for the chassis and crossmembers. (I have a built flatty going on..tripple deuce, fenton headers and motorcity flathead heads) Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

So Im sitting here eating birthday cake.. <img src="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> and on my desk is a AMT 1953 F100, this thing has been painted so many times i lost count! Its been "completed" about 3 times in the past 13 years, needless to say This should be it's final version. With no plan in mind aside from a hobby saw, a file and a dull pencil, i marked where i wanted the cuts, eyeballed reference points and cut away. I used the stock cowl vent as a point of reference on how much to eliminate width wise. When that was done..it was to tall, so i sectioned out the bottom of the cab, rounded the edges a bit, and there ya have it! Still needs PLENTY of cleanup but the look overall is there. I picked up parts off the mockup bench to see what it will look like, i dig it! I will power it by a flathead with goodies (i save my flatheads for open wheeled cars only) Wheels and tires.. will be steelies (not shown but similar! <a href="http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/models/1953-ford-f100-modified/sany0083.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://images46.fotki.com/v1392/photos/9/979739/6924154/SANY84-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a><a href="http://www.fotki.com" target="_blank">Hosted on Fotki</a> <a href="http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/models/1953-ford-f100-modified/sany0085.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://images46.fotki.com/v1393/photos/9/979739/6924154/SANY0085-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a><a href="http://www.fotki.com" target="_blank">Hosted on Fotki</a> <a href="http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/models/1953-ford-f100-modified/sany0087.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://images43.fotki.com/v1388/photos/9/979739/6924154/SANY0087-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a><a href="http://www.fotki.com" target="_blank">Hosted on Fotki</a> <a href="http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/models/1953-ford-f100-modified/sany0091.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://images46.fotki.com/v1393/photos/9/979739/6924154/SANY0091-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a><a href="http://www.fotki.com" target="_blank">Hosted on Fotki</a> <a href="http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/models/1953-ford-f100-modified/sany0094.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://images43.fotki.com/v1381/photos/9/979739/6924154/SANY0094-vi.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a><a href="http://www.fotki.com" target="_blank">Hosted on Fotki</a> <a href="http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/models/1953-ford-f100-modified/" target="_blank">http://public.fotki.com/73OldsOmega/models...-f100-modified/</a> few more pics here... now back to the bench to sand away the seams! Plenty of plastic to add thats for sure, I got my sheet stock ready!

Thanks Ricks! Big help..Looks like a call to smooth-on is coming soon.

Thanks guys! I l look into those companies. Anyone else?

You shoulda won something, i love it! I love the color to..

The one thing that saddens me the most is..not knowing what his plans were for the unfinished models, i guess you just gotta think liek bob did (onbviously no one can match him, but you can try) I would say a bubble top roof for the 57..

WE as a country wil not fail, just because GM MIGHT go down the toilet sure its your opinion japan is a piece of junk..but despite your hatred towards them, they make some of the best selling cars in the world.. and thats not so easy to come to do.

Great work guys! Fantastic...that looks great, thanks for posting your progress! Paint lifting, I have the same issue in the past, i beat it by using artist quality acrylics for rust layers over the primer. The lifting , are the layers fully cured? sometimes when it isnt fully dry it will lift..in my case, it happens from time to time.

I have not seen a bad reaction with it, just use light layers. You can always do this trick..(i learned this from ###### cranky aka Virgil) Seal it with future floor polish, then coat it with dullcoat, if theres a white haze, seal it again with dullcoat and your fine. (white haze is a chemical reaction..nothing to be alarmed about)

Superb work Rob and James Im so glad you guys tried it, its...addicting The same thing happened to me James, the alcohol works a little too well sometimes, but thats where practice comes in.. Weathering is all about feeling, in the sense that In order to gauge how much, you just gotta try it and get a feel for what everything will do or react in combo to the other paints and chemicals your using. I usually lay a old towel on my lap, dip my brush into some alcohol whether its a black and Alc, or just pure Alc, and dab it all over the areas i want to weather, dap on top of the now pooled up alcohol, and either let it evaporate and sponge it up lightly. I usually go over a model a few times with alcohol mixtures, just to make sure all areas are even. Hosted on Fotki This cab was done almost like the tutorial, but the key difference was i did not coat the cab with full layers, i just dabbed a small amount of paint in areas i wanted, and let the alcohol pick up most of it off. The base coat was enamel green followed by almond, then green again (all layers cured before each layer of paint) I buffed through the green down to the white, then back to the green, then i used acrylics. Hosted on Fotki This was used with all acrylics, just like the tutorial, except the top layers were done with smal lamounts of paint dabbed around.

Just curious what some of the well known resin casters out there, which resin do you use, and from what company? The reason why i ask, and i understand if it is a trade secret, or secretive due to competition, but Im a home caster..but i want QUALITY. Ive gotten resins from some of the well known casting companies , and Im not to happy with the finish (yes i do know how to cast, and yes i use a pressure pot, i know the basics) I got some masters with some detail in them, that i want to use a high quality resin..Ive been impressed by andy martin, reliable resins, modelhaus, replica & miniatures..etc Just never knew what brand resin they use, Yes i know i could ask directly..but id rather not. I understand the high price in quality resins, thats fine.. I just want great quality stuff with a slow set time (15minutes or higher.) Thanks

When i started the project, everything was done on the fly, i had no game plan, just a picture as usual in my imagination. I never really paused to think that the hood could/should have a factory paint job. What had happened was i forgot to paint the hood during the tutorial, so i went back and did it, but thouht to use different colors. I did use another set of colors on the hood, but they did not come out right, so i went with the white and blue. At the time, the impala's green was staying more towards the factory green (granted not correct, but thats the concept) while the hood could have been a donor. Maybe when the car was new? Maybe 5 years later in 1972 the hood got swapped, the story has no limits

Feel free to post progress here..im really looking forward seeing anything!

I always let my acrylic layers fully dry before any alcohol. Use a hair dryer to force heat it, works very well.

Dennis, I have had this very same camera, i could NEVER get good pictures from it, without the macro setting..its very very hard...close to impossible, due to the closeup and size of 1.25 scale. scenics are fine due to the size , but anything smaller i had trouble. I suggest IF theres a budget that allows for a new camera, pick up a Canon A590 it can be found for about 130 dollars at wal-mart,best buy,circuit city or online..its a AMAZING camera for the price.

Ive been wondering the same thing Jairus