crazyrichard

awsome build tom

i can tell you all clear coating over white primer works great , if you sand the primer supersmooth without sanding trough you can clear it lol the result of clear coated primer > i ruined the bench so i put some cloth tape on it and made it a fabric bench carefully dryfitted the grille i just had to see how it looked on the shiny body cant get any closer close up wise lol , did some chrome accents and even the chevy logo in the dash is chrome now , thought it would fail but it didnt , whow that logo was small

catch them they are going to fall how did that happen ??

thnx will do !! well needed to hand paint the black in the engine bay and the front since it was already glued in , so some time later with patience a smaal brush it came out like this but the grille really looks unrealistic so gave it a wash with thinner and enamel mixed paint i took a risk , clear coated the white primer , got it so flat it was smooth as ice , never did that but we will see its now baking dry i def want to get some matt white spray paint for the future because i actually loved the matt white from the primer .. didnt have the nerve to leave it because primer will become dirty and degrade i think

thnx ! vandaag goed gebuik gemaakt vd vrije dag dryfit with the engine second round of primer the pre-shaded panellines look nice , not to black interiour in white and copper , bench is ruined so i need to fix that colorsceme white with a copper roof , inspired by gasmonkey garage the previous owner of the kit already glued the roof shell on they made it sepatare so its easy to paint .. now i had to mask everything off lol with the interiour , the top of the dash is two tone from white to copper

thnx guys and well maybe some day i build a rusted model and try to sell it to you as a 1:1 , good test for realism

well new day and i will try again so tbh i'm still learning myself and i also believe weathering is a case of having the guts to slap on some paint and just go for it .. and this is maybe the most important thing > i often think oh no this isnt what i have in mind but then press on with rubbing stuff of with a cloth , adding more layers and in the end it starts to look right also in a dio i think its good to have a certain technique that you can aply on all theparts to keep the smae tones and feeling .. thats keeps it tied together and like said all my weathering is just something i really learned myself in the last year , also i'm not really one to read tutorials , i got inspired by others here and just tried to get something going my own way some things i think i can explain fairly simple like adding aditional (fake) depth in dioramas so enamels work best , first strarted with waterbased acrylic paint (tubes) but that doesnt stick as good in the creases as enamels .. like said the cue tips are very handy .. in the garage if you look closely you see i also used black enamel along all the building parts and machines to create some fake schading .. i used to make car renderings / chops and did that for many years and was pretty well known in that scene , stopped because of the modelbuild hobby .. both take a lot of times because rendering also takes hours and hours of virtual building / drawing etc etc ... in rendering you use a lot of shading and highlighting to resemble the real world and make it realistic .. of course our modelstuff is already real only on scale .. this got me wondering and i took black enamel paint and llike along all the sticking out parts painted black lines .. after painting a line richt away with a moist cue tip i rubbed of the paint , leaving a slight black line .. so on everything in the dio i just did that , corners / along the standing beams / around the door and even along the benches / machines etc.. this creates some sort of extra depth in everything .. now this only works i a more weathered environment then some general weathering you asked about like on the oil cans you mentioned that is really a technique i jus recently started to use very recently , like said i used acrylic paint and that sometimes just doesnt stick on smooth surfaces (unsanded) so about one month ago i went to this big moddeling store and bought some enamel paints ..came home and found out that worked sooo good .. i still need to go back and buy way more stuff .. so the oil drums >> after making the part i just took red enamel paint and painted it red by hand and after fiishing did a second layer right away .. you can also spray parts but i ike to work fast and enamel dry's real quick , i just put it on the radiator at home turn up the heat a bit and after 10-12 minutes its dry .. then i took black and first just with a tiny pensil brush / hand brush painted small black lines along the parts lines like sticking out or inlayed parts / lines .. and again with the cue tip wiped it off .. doing that really leaves a flat and small black line instead of a painted thick line .. and again the cue tips are super cheap , a box usually have a couple of hundred in them .. but before wiping put it in your mouth and turn it around so the hairs are smooth and the tip is slightly moist .. sounds weird but does the trick .... making it wet in water isnt good it needs to be moist and not wet ... then i just brushed on like how i think some oil soillings would run and again slightly rubbed of soem paint again so its not thick.. then and that really was cool i tried to aply some gloss brown wood stain over all of that , just a complete coat over all the red (only works on red paint) that made the red more alive and the oil spills pop more ... you could redo the black after the wood stain dryes so its more matt but oil isnt matt so... now that wood stain story is only to show you can try so many weird things , the wood stain was in my shed / workplace and i use that around the house , put some in a small jar to use on the wood in my dio (also did that on the wood) and just tried how that looked over red because its actually like a brown clear coat for making rust i now use a base enamel rust colored paint , sometimes if you want some rust structure you can make that so easy .. lets say you have a car body and its painted , just scribe away some paint with a hard iron pin untill you hit the underlayer of styrene again ,, scribe like a shape that you want like a piece is rusted and chipped off .. then take very rough sand paper and lie that on you worktable .. take a piece of styrene (i found the left over revell parts are perfect) and hold the sand paper down on the workbench and scibe the styrene part over the paper back and forward leaving sand residue on the paper .. this styrene dust is very very fine and perfect for rust structure in our scale .. then take brown enamel paint and paint the part you chipped with a brush and make sure its only in the cribed part or what you want rusted ... trow a little bit of that styrene dust on the brown paint and blow away the rest by blowing it off .. take like a old brush and open up the hairs so they are not like in a tip and softly tap in the mix of dust and paint you find you can spread it out or make the texture change how you like. after that is all dry take lighter rust brown , now for that i still use waterbased acrylic paint because that doest make the first layer go soft again and ry brush a bit over the structured stuff , you can really try to get the lighter stuff on the structure leaving the deeper parts darker brown , creating depth you can even play with some minour black .. now that something i started to do last week on that mercedes lieferwagen thats in under glass at the light commercial and pick ups section .. there i did the whole body after screweing up the gloss paint on the bonnet.. and i wanted to try out rust structure and that was perfect for trying out .. on a whole body sfter doing this you can even sand the effect down with fine sandpaper ... but rust on machines i a dio i just do fairly quick and just aply some enamel paint over the painted part like in corners where i think rust would be and after that highlight it with lighter brown (rust) .. didnt chip or texture anything in the dio yet i'm sure there are even better techniques because sometimes here i see stuff that makes my stuff look like childsplay i still want to try chipping / peeling paint myself with the hairspray technique m still dint do that myself

nice kit weathering looking nice

nice nice , love the dents

awsome job !! looks almost real and very very cool in fact the only thing that sticks out is you still slightly see the part on the rims edge where it was sitting in the sprue ...

very nice , but why no b pillar ?? looks a bit emptt now and also if you would have done a b pillar it would give extra strengt to the body .. always loved chopped bugs

just make a deal with yourself only toutch the hub and othing else but i know what you mean , sometimes we get to critic on our own work

came out awsome !!

its really geting scary real now

nice nice .. the only thing i would have done was do the engine block copper instead of the bluw to stay within the colorscheme of the interiour

is it that bad

i loved every build of you !! , this truck looks awsome love the model and love the stance and wheels .. if i can be just hounest i dont like the tombstone paint ..but its def. different .. dont mean this badly !! surely still a cool build ...

thnx and well no not sure yet , maybe white with a gold metallic roof ?? went fot this steering wheel and removed half of the horn ring , nice and simple primer time , pretty smooth already , so tomorrow it will be sanding and we will see if anything needs a bit of bondo , i think if so it will be minour

oops i posted this in under glass can a mod please move this to on the worbench ? thnx in advance and thnx guys .. at first i thought i'd chop the roof but glad i did not do that i think this would ruin the looks the higher roof just looks great o a pick up started on the rear ride hight setting , needs more work of course placed the front suspension original to see what we can do with that .. sadly and like said the cab and front was already gluid in this kit by the previous owner if that was not the case i would have lowered the cab .. doing this at this point might be tricky .. but maybe it will still work we wil see then started flattening al the seems and work of the other guy , the cab was put together reasonable .. first flattened the rear so it was flush with the cab and put some bondo on the seems did the same under the hood where the firwall sits against the cab .. the glue line needed to be smooth front end had some issiues so some sanding and bondo did the trick the side what was the step i also will make one pieve with the bed ridehight (roughly) the sides of the hood where the hinges also sit on where separate pieces , those where glued in at some point but where broken of again and laying loose in the kit .. i glued those back and really filed and sanded that into one piece with the hood , came out smooth as glass

awsome !!!!!!

next build is the chevy stepside .. bought this from a fellow builder but the kits was already started and partially assembled , this was a buy with several kits at ounce and most where not in he original box or mint but i got those so cheap it was almost for free the boxart the wheels and tyres of this kit are so awsome and so i already used them on my copper colored scalpt 32 ford build so i had to try some wheels first these , quickly found these they ar actually of a monogram stock car kit most o the cab was already glued by the previous owner , i just glued in the sides of the hood woth the hinges and then this front clip the steps for the side i didnt like ... so i cut them up and only used the rear part so it hides the chassis , will bondo that into one piece with the bed sides now i'm going to look for some inspiration

whooowww thats awsome makes my rust looks like childsplay

nice thread made this from a opel blits italeri kit , only the cab is pretty much stock the rest scratched 1/24-1/25 and a fun towrod a mix from a pickup kit and amodified body from the dan finks speedwagon

looking nice !

some inbetween pics the scratch build grille with v8 logo (all scrap styrene from kits) made the 8 from 2 round circles some in the garage on this pic you see the more rough rust structure i started with and on the first post you see i downtoned that a bit real quick build but it was way fun