hedotwo

The glass was picked up by our mailman this morning so you should see it in a few days maybe.

A quick post to say I've come to really like using this Gorilla adhesive. If you're not as steady with your hands and fingers as you used to be this stuff works great for being able to give you time to reposition stuff. Almost like the old Testors tube glue but when working with newer 3d or resin stuff it's the ticket IMO. It's a bit stringy (like the tube glue) but other than that it's strong enough when dry but most importantly it's not permanent to where you can't change your mind and take it apart. Anyway, I like using it now that I do more resin stuff and it works great when prefitting things before painting.

No problem.

Is this what you need? If so, shoot me your address and I'll get it out to you.

You're right about the photo being a 56. Really close except for what you pointed out. This printed body is overall ok, but the roof is probably the most obviously wrong thing IMO. The backlight is too small and the roof almost looks chopped. If this was styrene I might try and correct it but I'm not sure how I'd go about it with the printed resin.

Got this printed 1957 Lincoln Premiere yesterday. Like a lot of resin and printed stuff from the '50's it scales out between 1/26-1/27 but considering the subject matter it really doesn't bother me. I'd rather smaller than 1/25 than larger. The bumpers were printed with the body which will be different when it comes to chroming, but I won't have to worry about fitment. Really nice and crisp and actually includes scripting. Now I need to find donor parts 😉!

x2

Thanks to all the great suggestions I went to HL yesterday and picked up the 68 Revell Charger. In addition to all the running gear (which fits perfectly except for the driveshaft which is no worry) and engine I also am able to use the outside door handles and some other bits. And 40% off 😉

Lacking a dedicated scale ruler I use the tool on Online Scale Converter Tool - Scale Modelers World often. Works great for me.

Thanks for all the great info!

Good idea!

I have a few resin cars from the 50's that the dimension are off. Other than just eyeballing where the differences are, and how to go about trying to correct, does anyone know of a website that might have these types of dimensions for various makes from the '50's? Not just length, width, and height. Those are easy to find. Guessing not, but thought I'd ask. I can just trust my eyeballs between the resin bodies and real photos. Thanks!

Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing!

Quite a bit of difference in wheelbase between the chargers and the chrysler. I'll stick with just trying to find suspension that'll work with this chassis. I know it'd need a longer driveshaft which is no problem and I'd go with the 440. Thanks

It's an All American resin 70 Chrysler 300. Have all but the suspension and engine. I'm not too concerned with the underside being exact to the 300. Just so it sits right and looks close.

More good info... thanks Chris. Hopefully I can find one at Hobby Lobby or similar. Hate to spend too much for donor parts 😉

Is the 71 AMT Charger something that might be available at a Hobby Lobby?

Wow... great thanks!

I have this resin chassis that needs the suspension and rear axle donated to complete it. Any ideas where it might have come from? Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion of the 54 wheels, but I'm really liking the look of the smooth 55 covers, even if I have to try and make them myself somehow. Those 54's sure look like the tri-spoke AMT covers used in some late 50's annuals. Maybe the 54 is where they got the idea for them.

Very interesting!

Any clear will work fine and it really depends on the sheen (or lack of) you're looking for. Mixing this paint isn't rocket science IMO. I've used washer fluid for a long time and never really had any issues with the way it lays, other than the way I do it takes a while to get suffiecient coverage and using a hair dryer eliminates long waits between coats. I've found craft paints to dry really quickly and if you want you can toss it into a dehydrator if you want to make sure before clearing. I usually clear after an hour or so and have never had a problem. But others may have had different experiences with drying. Not saying mine is the correct one just that it works for me. This stuff lays thin and it's delicate afterwards so clearing is important. I just keep adding a bit more fluid til I get it to the consistency of maybe 1% milk and my airbrush does fine. Easy to just dip a toothpick into the paint mix til it drips easily. Anything thicker and I've found I have trouble with clogging, although I haven't tried using a retarder of any kind. Last, I tend to like Folk Art paints best. A bit more expensive (still really cheap though) but I've found their pigments mix easier. Good luck.

I often use craft acrylics for interiors because like you said you can get them to match pretty close by mixing colors easily. I use windshield washer fluid to thin and try to just get the mix to drip easily off a toothpick. Be prepared to put lots of thin coats on and I use a hair dryer on low to get the coats to dry quickly. The way I do it takes a while to get to the coverage I need. Afterwards I spray a semi gloss clear or just leave as is depending on the build. I spray at around 15-20psi and just make sure you either mix REALLY well or use a filter to strain the paint before spraying because depending on your nozzle the tip can clog easily if not mixed well.

Would anyone have a set of 1/25 1954 Buick Roadmaster wheel covers, or know of any resin or 3d printed sets? No chrome or bad chrome not a problem. Thanks!

Thanks!