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Everything posted by hedotwo
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Ok, one last one. This roughly shows the fuel pump setup a bit on the Bud car that Revell may have used in making the part. Not sure which of the Bud cars it is though. The hat is different.
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I was basically looking for just the main fuel pump lines on the Revell part. I've already made my barrel valve very similar to the dual inlet one you posted a pic of. It may or may not be period correct for the Bud car, but it's what it's going to be in this case. I'm not going to stress over the exact routing of the fuel pump lines but was hoping to make an effort at doing it somewhat correctly. The beauty of detailing dragster stuff is that it's always visible. No having to put a hood on only to end up covering up your hard work. Thanks for the replies.
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It's from the Revell Bud dragster kit. My RM Pennzoil dragster kit has the same pump setup so I'm guessing they were on most of the kits of then current kits from the late 90's and early 2000's. I won't be at home for a few days to be able to show you another view unfortunately. What you're looking at is the dead on front view and this is the two pump covers and associated fittings. The two pump bodies run off a common drive shaft that mounts to the block between the blower belts. I've spent a fair amount of time searching Google images (it's an art to come up with good search terms) and will continue, but I thought I'd give some of the forum experts a shot at identifying for me. I have the schematic you posted and will use that if I don't find better. It obviously shows the two main fuel lines going to the barrel valve, but the others somewhat confused me. I'm guessing they'll end up at a fuel distribution block of sorts. Rich
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I've attached a pic of a Revell twin fuel pump manifold for a top fuel dragster circa 2000. I've already drilled out all 5 fittings and am ready to run fuel lines but have a question as to which go where. I'm assuming A and B go to the barrel valve. Is this right? How about C, D, and E? Thanks, Rich
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I've used both methods described above but prefer wire for really small parts, held with a minuscule drop of CA. The thin wire is strong and the hole needed can be kept really small as well. I like using plastic rod as well for other applications and always prefer to not use CA if I can so being able to use regular styrene cement is a plus. Both work, the key is drilling the hole in the right spot Like everything, the more you do it, the better you get.
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Welcome Graeme!
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Glad to have you on board!
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Easy way to make flexible hoses/ducting
hedotwo replied to Matt Bacon's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Great tip! Thanks -
Drag builds are my favorites and your builds are great! Thanks for sharing!
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Hello Fellow Model Builders
hedotwo replied to StyreneAddict420's topic in Welcome! Introduce Yourself
Welcome! -
Nice! I really like the "for sale" concept too.
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Welcome Dave!
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Beautiful Poncho... great build!
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61 Impala convertible, my second build after 30 years off
hedotwo replied to Johnt671's topic in Model Cars
Excellent! I love builds of folk's 1:1's and the stories behind them... -
Warped plastic car body
hedotwo replied to 49 Hudson's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I always have a pan of ice water available to quickly dip the body into after heating. I find it helps eliminate alot of the "memory" the plastic has in wanting to return to it's original state. -
I use Evercoat 445 and love it. Same as the 446 Evercoat but costs less as it's only a 20oz can vs 64. Costs less, but still not cheap
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Welcome from another Wisconsinite Jim! You'll find lots of good people and good fun here. Rich
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They can be used in either 1/24 or 1/25 but I think they tend to be more towards 24 scale IMO.
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Good show today. First time attending and I'm glad I was able to go. Walked away with a few plastic grab bags (love these) for $3 each that I could use along with a few kits. Big crowd it seemed to me.
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patience is a virtue
hedotwo replied to jacoballardtattoo's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
My projects tend to creep in complexity as I go along. What starts out with a resolution to finish a build within a few weeks usually ends up twice that after I decide to add this and change that. Often, I tell myself at the start that I'm going to stick to a "stock" build in order to keep completions and interest going at a good rate. I even sometimes have the wild idea of sealing the hood on a project and making it a curbside to finish quicker, but that has yet to happen. Typically, scratchbuilding rears it's head and another kit (or 2) becomes involved and the time-anchor comes out. Also, I wouldn't want to guess the percentages but I'll bet many here are like me when it comes to part cleanup. I spend hours and hours doing parts cleanup, including parts that I know will NEVER be seen by anyone but me. Maybe it's the inner dentist in me taking over, so I do it, but then wonder why. Bottom line is you work at a pace that feeds your creativity and time availability. Fortunately as we get older we tend to have more of each. Enjoy! -
Another new guy -from Annapolis, MD
hedotwo replied to Dublover1970's topic in Welcome! Introduce Yourself
Welcome! -
Great work! Is the camaro pro-mod a curbside?