1959scudetto

Very nice builds, Douglas!

How could I miss this one? Great model, Paul - I think I need also one of these...

Very nice, Bart - I have a soft spot for the '66 Batmobile - it brings back childhood memories. Very interesting to see it side-by-side with the Lincoln Futura: you can clearly see the similarities, but at the same time the differences

Could yours be a built-up of Sankyo's 1931 Alfa Romeo Gran Sport (has been reissued in 1970 by Midori, in 1975 by Union, in the 80's once again by Union, and finally in the late 80's by Revell)

Here are 2 pictures of the QR from the 2010 "Alfa Romeo Centenary Collection":

You have a Lancia B 24 Spyder in between those Alfas, Gary (the silver one with red interior)

Very nice build, Alan - the 1963 championship winning car of my favorite driver.

Thanks, Trevor - most of my built-ups are "old school" - no airbrush, trim in most cases silver paint, no expensive aftermarket parts...

Sorry, pics should be below and not above...

I have built one in the '80s - it was called "Street fighter" it had quite a few issues (IIRC, it could not be built stock, but only as a street rod/lowrider) - here was my built-up:

Thank you, Steve - I painted it with spray-cans I had at hand, trim is silver Humbrol paint.

I remember Airfix' 1/32 Ford T-Model (in plastic bag!) - I built this one more than 50 years ago I have a JoHan '68 Imperial HT promo that was molded in an ugly "Popeye spinach green" !

and Fujimi "old" Mini Cooper racing (RS-63)

I built the 1979 matchbox/amt version of this kit in 1984, and I think it came out not too bad:

Thank you Gareth, I think you can use this method for different applications - I hope that everything was understandable (I had to recall the whole procedure from memory...).

Very nice GT40, Adam (I have this one in my stash, too - with totally yellowed decals ?

Thanks, Graham!

Thanks, Tony - it was a quick build for in-between - sometimes you need something that doesn't take long. Thanks, Carl !

looks good, Rich - I hope you're feeling better soon.

Here are mine - all built in the 80's: 1: amt's '53 as a junker: 2. amt's 53 as a late '50s custom PU (installing lots of those ugly custom parts...): 3) Monogram's '55 - straight out of the box: and finally 4) Revell's '56 - slightly customized using the wheels from Monogram's '56 T-Bird:

They look great, Tim - reminds me of the two DM versions that were presented long time ago in SAE (red F-100 and dark green Chevy)

x 2: Steve is one of the masters of American Classics - exquisite paint, perfect detailing and top photography - I enjoy everything he posts here !

Thanks, Greg - I started with brush painting, then switched to rattle cans - the 3rd step (airbrush) I have still not done yet (I still have about 40 - 50 different rattle cans left - mostly auto lacquers)

Hi Gareth, I posted a small tutorial yesterday in the tips and trick section of the board.

Some of you were obviously impressed by my handpainted eagle cab decoration. As there were no such decals available in 1986, I had no other choice than doing it by myself. I would like to show you that this is quite an easy task – everybody can do it: you only need some patience, self-sticking masking foil, several paints, pencil, eraser and a black fine liner/marker. Today, good pictures can be found on the internet - I found one in David Jacobs’ 1980 book “American Trucks 2” (no internet in 1985/86) I will split this up into different steps: 1. Cover the whole body with primer. 2. Take measurements from hood, cab and sleeper and make a 1:1 drawing on paper. 3. Draw the color separation lines and the body of the eagle trying to get the proportions correct ( I goofed, and both wings are too short – compare this with the original: the feathers should reach around the edge of the hood, up to the grille and in the back around the edge of the sleeper cab; the body of my eagle sits too far back: the front tip of the tail feathers should be exactly where the hood meets the cab – see original truck) 4. This may need several trials until you are satisfied, but as you are still working on paper, you can take an eraser and correct anything. When you think it’s o.k., then cut the eagle body out with a pair of scissors and use this paper eagle as a template for your masking film – turn it over, you will use it for both sides – then cut the two symmetric eagles out of the masking film. As my primer happened to be almost the needed color, I masked the eagle directly onto it (and also the fender edges). If yours is the wrong color, then apply the beige/tan needed for the eagle body first, before masking. 5. After masking the eagle and the lower edges/surroundings of the front fenders, cover the body with orange (it looks as if the wings have a slightly lighter shade of orange than the parts below, but I didn’t care about that). The orange I had at hand is definitely wrong – it’s too dark. 6. When the color is dry, mask the lower half of the truck which should remain orange and paint the upper part in black. Now remove the masking and cover the truck with matte or semi-gloss clear so that your pencil and later the fine-liner will find some “grip”. 7. Divide up the eagle’s wings into 10 feathers each, and the tail into 4 (see sketch “step 7 – 9”) – draw two arcs on each side (these are the limitations for the black feathers) – if you are ready and everything fits, then trace the pencil lines with your black fine-liner drawing the contours of the feathers and color them black either with a pen or with a fine brush (between the 2 outer arcs) – remember: the feathers are already orange and get their black tips now. 8. If you are not satisfied with your pencil lines, take your eraser and correct them before using the fine-liner. When everything is done and the paint is thoroughly dry, erase the remaining pencil lines and cover the whole rig with gloss clear. 9. Remember: the most important thing is to let the paint dry long enough before taking the next step – or you ruin your work. Try it – it is rather time consuming, but worth it! It is not really different – anyone can do this (with an airbrush it certainly will look better, but I didn’t have one back then, nor do I now – I still use rattle cans). Just go for it ! Even if it's not perfect - it makes fun: isn't it that what modeling is all about?