Pro Wrench

This thing kinda looks like a downsized '67 or '68 Mustang Fastback.

kennb here on the forum has a tutorial in the tips section on how to build and use a lacing jig to make your own wire wheels. His results look great. Might be something you can use.

Glad to see you back at this again. I learned a TON from your previous posts. As I type this there are 43 people, including myself, following this thread. I don't recall seeing a count that high on any other thread as of late.

I absolutely DESPISE this car! And I'm a die hard Mustang fanatic that HAS a 1967 Fastback. I think its probably because of all the hype over it after the movie. EVERYTHING was Eleanor this or Eleanor that.

Congratulations, Charlie! That's a hell of an achievement! You need to make some copies of that degree and send it to those that doubted you with a note telling them where they can stick it. Curt

The trick to building headers that required complex and multiple bends is to use solid core solder. It's soft and maleable enough to bend easily.

This statement right here is EXACTLY why I want a lathe and a mill myself. I find myself at least once a week trying to repair or build something on the job that I could use one or the other or both for.

If you wrap the wire for the springs around the threads on a small screw (like a #8 or #10) then turn the screw out it makes perfect spacing for them also.

I'm assuming that car must have been designed during a bad acid trip.

Where do I get 91% alcohol?

I'm having the same problem with a Hemi Cuda that I painted about 30 years ago. Don't remember what I used, which I'm sure is whatever my dad had in the garage, but I have tried everything including drain cleaner and Easy-Off and it hasn't touched it.

Casting a scratchbuilt part doesn't make it any less scratchbuilt. My opinion is that if you have to make it because it's not or never has been commercialy available then it is scratchbuilt. Including parts that have to be modified for a use other than originaly intended.

I also had a friend in high school that had one. As others have said, it didn't have enough power to pull the hat off your head. We ended up putting a 400 small block in it. Since we used the stock tranny and 4 cylinder converter the thing had a stall speed of about 3000 rpm. Worked great until the converter ballooned. LOL

Kinda looks like a stretched out Fiero.

I also build 1:1 drag cars and race them, build 1:1 showcars, build and operate extremely high horsepower (475+ hp)turbocharged custom mountain snowmobiles, build and shoot guns including 1000 yard competitions, reload ammunition, and collect Snap-On and other high quality tools. This hobby is the least expensive of the bunch and I still end up spending WAY too much on it.

That is one of the ugliest cars I have ever seen. Anyone that would do that to a Ferrari would drink their own bath water.

Where are you getting the line drawings for these cars? There are a few 1:1 cars that I need some for to lay out graphics and paint schemes on and I can't find any.

Yeah, I'm familiar. I live in Spokompton now but used to live across the street from Jump Off Joe Lake so I drove past Clayton pretty much every day.

Not to mention that there really isn't a whole lot to do in the sprawling metropolis of Clayton, Washington. LOL

WOW! Those wheels were a surprise to the retinas! I like it! And my dad did 3 tours in Vietnam so I know exactly what that license plate says.

When I was working in the oil and gas drilling fields in Wyoming they would use big huge quad turbo diesel engines similar to that to operate the pump used for hydrofracing the gas wells.

This looks good. However, IF you are going for 100% accuracy, the fuel line for the fuel injection would never come from a mechanical fuel pump as they aren't capable of making the 45-65 psi of fuel pressure required. In fact, the late model engine blocks for the fuel injected cars aren't even cast with a provision FOR a mechanical pump. Just some info I'm throwing out there. If you are like me and don't really care about 100% accuracy none of this makes any difference though.

I've been wanting to build one of these and have actually even considered trying to find a tank of the proper size from an airplane model. Now that I see this, I REALLY want to build one.

Is this modeled after a 1:1 trike? It could be buildable as a 1:1 if someone wanted to tackle it.

I don't think the kit slicks look big enough, personally.