Quick GMC

Where did you get a 1/24 forklift? I Have been looking for one.

ok. I know I have read in the past you have to be careful touching up and sanding metallics, so I just wanted to be sure.

I need to sand some heavy orange peel from the clear coat, which is over metallic paint. I expect to go through the paint in some high spots, but the majority of the clear will remain. Can I touch up these spots by spraying more basecoat, then clear over the whole thing without it looking weird? most of it will have base paint+clear, while the areas immediately surrounding the touch ups will have base paint+clear+base paint+clear.

Marcos, your models are always inspiring. Incredibly clean work and very realistic.

I am a Lions fan. I am not surprised at what happened. I am surprised they actually fired someone in the middle of the season. Nothing out of the ordinary for us.

I knew that. Then I forgot. Maybe I can still make that happen. I'll see what I can do, worst case scenario it will be incorrect, but it will add some eye candy under the hood. Thanks for pointing that out. So this update is kind of frustrating, but I'm on the other side of it now. I painted the body parts with Scale Finishes Harley Davidson Sinister Blue, which is a metallic. The metallic flakes are nice and small. I had some dust and stuff in the paint, which isn't unusual and it sanded down with 4000 grit very quickly. When I loaded up the airbrush with my lacquer clear, I did a couple test spoons to get it dialed in, no issues really. i started shooting the body and there were cobwebs everywhere, just about ruined the paint job. i let it dry for a few minutes, then buffed the cobwebs off with a microfiber towel. I kept messing around and I laid down a heavy wet coat, which looked like it would settle down, but it didn't. It dried with a ton of texture. I sprayed the body, hood and scoop at the same time, so you can see how far I got with the hood and scoop. The body on the other hand, I will sand down with the 3200 Micromesh, then respray a couple fresh coats of clear. I bought a new can of the exact same stuff and that ended up working much better. The can I had I guess wasn't sealed enough so it had started thickening and needed to be thinned. I am still learning a lot about painting. Here is the body and you can see what a nightmare it turned out to be, but it actually sands down fairly easily. It will just take some time to get all the nooks and crannies. I would strip and respray, but this color was so thin it took more than half the bottle to get an even, solid color. I don't think I have enough left to do the body again. If this was enamel paint with this finish like I used to paint with...forget it. Sanded the hood and scoop with Micromesh from 3600-12000, then polished with Tamiya Fine and Finish. Then Tamiya wax just for the hell of it. I still have to add the finish under the hood, under the hood scoop, the hoot pins and the 2 stainless steel supports for the front of the scoop. Here is what the paint looks like up close Before wax After wax So now I just have to find the time to deal with the body, which might be in another week. Work has been keeping me busy lately. Anyway, I am happy with the results, so now I can relax knowing what i will end up with.

incredible, I love that.

I tried the new stuff. Night and day difference. The other can must be slowly getting thicker with the air that is getting in there. I will keep both and thin as needed. I will post pics in my WIP for the Dart once I fix the orange peel and get it all settled in.

I just bought a new can of the same stuff to be safe. It is pre-thinned and ready to use, so if I need to thin it in the future, I would assume lacquer thinner from Home Depot would be okay?

the last car I did with this was around April, and it was fine. A tiny bit of cobwebs, but otherwise fine, now it is unusable. did you use yours before you had that issue? I really like the product, it's so easy to use.

I sprayed some clear i have tonight and there are spiderwebs everywhere. I tried different pressures and paint flow, and I am almost certain I have my airbrush dialed in. I have learned over the years what the settings need to be at. I think maybe my can of clear is too old and needs to be replaced. I was able to wait in between applications and lightly buff out the cobwebs, but now I need to do a final wet coat and I don't want to take a chance. The can is $30 which I don't mind paying for, but I wanted to ask first and see if I am on the right track It is Duplicolor Paint Shop lacquer clear in a quart can. i have had it a year or more. Stored inside. Would this be a typical symptom of clear past it's shelf life?

Thanks for the info. I sanded the paint lightly with 4000 micromesh. It isn't flawless, but it is perfectly smooth. When I get it wet and look really close, I can see a few spots here and there that aren't 100%, but it's not something that will stand out and be glaringly obvious. At this point, it is ready for clear, but I will get some filters for the next build.

If I had to filter paint, what would I use? Would a coffee filter work?

It's not from the paint, it's from the air. It's on top of the paint, not "in" it. So far I have not had any issues with Scale Finishes when shaking or mixing properly.

That looks like it could be it. The lighting has a big effect on it, so it's hard to pinpoint. Thanks.

my mom had a Tempo is a very similar color as well. My dad bought it for her for Christmas one year, worst Christmas present ever.

I am painting Scale Finishes base coat over Tamiya primer. There are some small hairs and some dust fibers in the paint. If I pull some of these out, it will leave a little line where the hair pulled the paint out. They are very fine, thin fibers. I can wet sand the paint lightly to smooth everything out. My question is, when I clearcoat, as long as the surface is perfectly smooth, will these fibers stand out, or will they blend in under the clear? Also, I am using Harley Davidson Sinister Blue. It is a dark blue, but it is very thin and takes many coats to cover the primer and get an even color. Because it's a flat basecoat, I can see some airbrush streaks on the roof in certain lighting, but it's more of the sheen than the color. When I hold the body under lighting to look at the color, it is uniform and has no light patches. When I clear, can I expect this effect to go away?

This was posted by a modeler (Chan Rosso) on Facebook. I asked him what the color was and he says it is a Ford color, but he doesn't remember the name or code. I would like this for my Cobra build. Also, how insane is this detail in 1/43?

Silly Putty is terrible, but Blue Tack works very well for the same thing. I have been using it for a while now and i love it.

I appreciate the information guys, thank you. I will wait until it comes out for re-release rather than buy the original issue I was looking at.

is it more Revell quality or more AMT quality? I just don't want to have to fight it a lot to fit properly

I came across this kit and the box art looks cool. I am not a big fan of AMT kits because of the quality and flash. I have never built an MPC kit. I was wondering how they were and if this is worth getting Not necessarily from this source, I just used this link for a pic. http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com/kits/images/CarMPC/306-200corvette-sealed.JPG

Looks like Forged Magazine is from Western Australia, but this is clearly a US Rod and Custom nostalgic type magazine. It is the premier issue and I saw it at the grocery store. i can't find anything online about it yet. Anyway, if you see "forged", check it out. Lots of nice content and this issue is great. There is a writeup on the history of the Flathead, dirt drags, etc.

They did end production several years ago, because "Viper" went on separately. They resumed production under Dodge in '14

Awesome, thank you.