Quick GMC

I saved the 1/12 set to use some random things for my 1/12 chevy. After this thread I bought the 1/16 set for my 1/16 Fujimi F40 since that's what it says it's for. It was $17 which is very good if I can use it. If not, I'll ask for a refund or move on. 1 & 2 are engine covers for the testarossa #3, 4 & 5 are all exhaust and intake manifold gaskets. 6 I think are bonnet or engine cover straps for the F40 7 is a pulley face 8 looks like the gas pedal that you fold. They are usually like this in the smaller kits 9 are brake rotors 10 might be a key ring my best guess on 11 is the mount for the gas pedal. You'll need to fold it up and see if it lines up not sure on 12 13 definitely looks like straps for the engine cover and bonnet 14 looks like a pedal face or a foot plate for the passenger side 15 looks like some sort of gaskets for the Testarossa. There are 12 and it's a 12 cylinder 16 might be button or switch faces for the console on one of the cars 17 are air vents like you said 18 has always baffled me. MAYBE a vent for the front of the car 19 are speaker grills for the testarossa Don't know about 20 21 I am not certain either. There is 10 which doesn't make sense. The F40 and TR are 8 and 12 cylinders, so not gaskets. 22 I don't know 23 should be a seat belt buckle 24 dash panel 25 I think are bezels for the console or something, to go around the buttons. 26 is a bezel of some sort for the interior 27 is an alternator blade don't know 28 29 should go where the half shaft mounts into the tranny. Look at the kit and you'll see where the shafts go into the transmission there will be the mount with the bolt heads on it. 30 seat belt parts 31 pulley face 32 not sure. vent of some sort 33 no idea

I have this set. It is from Scale Details. I have the 1/12 version, which does not fit any 1/12 car I have ever seen. I'd be surprised if it fits the 1/16 It is for the Testarossa AND The F40 here it is on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-16-Ferrari-Testarossa-F40-Photoetched-Sheets-Detail-Transkit-Parts-Fujimi-/391097043773?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b0f334b3d When I complained about the pieces not fitting THE ONLY 1/12 Ferraris out there, they basically told me tough luck.

also, you can get thicker or thinner foil. I buy the industrial foil pack at Costco. I smoke a lot of meat and stuff on the smoker, so I go through a lot, but in a pinch I'll grab stuff at the local store and it's much thinner. Either way, this seems to be much more durable than BMF

Thanks guys. It might be a ittle bit before I build again. I have been extremely swamped and have a business trip I need to prepare for. I'll update when I can.

Hammond and May vowed to quit if Clarkson was fired. They are sticking to it. Top Gear is dead

These sold out fast. I just got a shipping confirmation for the 69 BOSS set, so I should see that in a bout a week. I'm curious to see if that window trim works well. I am excited about the radiator detail.

so yesterday on my way out of town I went to the Hobby Town I htink off Greenway. It was inside a huge building that has indoor kart racing and an RC track. They had a ton of Sci Fi and airplane models, but a small automotive section compared to the other stuff. Most of the store caters to RC. They did have a lot of Evergreen and Plastruct stuff so I picked some of that up. Everything was covered in dust, it's been sitting there a while. They had some little toys too, I picked up a dinosaur for my 1 year old. All in all it was a good visit. I didn't get any kits, unfortunately nothing really peaked my interest, but I got a bunch of styrene materials, including some 1/4 round clear acrylic rods I will use for propping up my race cars for display with the wheels off. The thing that bummed me out was all they had out of Tamiya was the military colors. No primer. I did get one can of black, but they didn't even have matte black. I got a few magazines, the first time I have seen scale auto or model cars mag in a hobby store. Usually they only have fine scale and RC mags. It's a good thing I had to get out of town because that indoor kart track is huge and looked like tons of fun.

All my friends think I'm lame for building models. Works out perfect.

I'm in Phoenix right now, Just drove out here on short notice. I have a meeting tomorrow in the morning in Scottsdale, hopefully I'll have time to check out a shop while I'm out here

They have acrylic enamel, but the base coats are lacquer. The enamels are gloss and don't need a clear coat, but the basecoats are very similar to Zero. They are flat and need a clear. Unless I've been wrong this whole time. I did strip one car that had Scale Finishes Enamel gloss coat and brake fluid worked incredibly well and left the Tamiya primer completely intact.

Some inspectors are just dumb. I had to deal with adjusters for customers with aftermarket warranties on their Jaguars. Some get it, some can't and never will.

I ordered some turbos, halibrand rear end, 1/20 Webers and stacks, Holley carbs, Lenco 4 speed and waste gates. I'll post pics when they get here.

I know tamiya isa synthetic lacquer, does it work the same with other lacquers, like Scale Finishes, which I think is automotive lacquer? I haven't tried it and I hope I don't have to

That looks killer. The engine sticks out quite a bit (visually). I like it a lot.

insurance companies and politicians should all go get in a plane crash together.

I use the yellow can of Easy OFF. I also use an old brush attachment for my electric toothbrush and it does a pretty good job of loosening up the coating underneath the chrome. Sometimes I have to do 2 applications.

I have a heavy hand, so when I tried this, i needed to do a few light coats at a time. Let cure, then do it again. I think I did 3 separate sessions in between curing. Probably 3-4 light, but thorough applications each time. Sounds like a lot, but it was like one airbrush cup full for a few parts like an oil pan and other small stuff. I learned this from a retired Dentist on the large scale forum. Mine didn't turn out as good as his, but he had decades of experience with very light and tedious stuff. If you try and polish it like a clear coat, it's just going to burn through. Honestly, you only want to polish the flat or large surface area parts. The compound should be enough for radiuses and edges. It's frustrating to be honest. I don't believe Alclad compares to the Metalizers when they are sanded and polished like this, but it's so delicate I had a hard time with it and decided to try and master the Aclad. I love Alclad, but it is absolutely mind blowing what you can do with the Metalizers if you have the patience and the right touch.

I have this particular kit and it's not a great one for a beginner as far as body work goes. The headlights need a lot of work.

You can actually sand an polish Model Master Metalizers. It's not easy, but it can be done. So whatever color you use, like stainless steel, or aluminum , etc. you can use MicroMesh and a polishing compound. BUT, pretend you're polishing a soft dried powder, not cured paint. It can be done to look incredible, however it's extremely time consuming and if you screw up at the end, it's all over. If you clear any of these metal finishes, they lose their natural metal look. I use both Metalizers and Alclad. They give two different finishes and I don't think one is necessarily better than the other, it just depends on the desired finish. They are both sensitive to handling and the oils in your skin.

I saw pics of when they first started printing, the 1/12 stuff and it was rough. the new stuff isn't bad. I wonder if you could just use a filler primer or something, then sand smooth? I have never used on before so I don't know what the limits are.

I have some of their turbos and there is a bit of a texture, but nothing like when they first started out.

For the front end, with all the work I got myself into, I really don't want to bother with the shocks. Nobody will miss them. However, in the engine bay, there are two large holes where the shocks are supposed to come up through and mount. empty holes vs. lumps of plastic is not much of a choice. i will make dummy shock mounts. it will make the engine bay look nice, but there will be no shocks under them. I and using .7mm brass nuts and bolts, and 1mm washers, like a fender washer. This Or this All i have are cell pics right now, but when things start to get a little more complete, I will take better pictures.

Engine is not 100% but I wanted to start on the chassis. I didn't have anything specific in mind so I am just kind of winging it as I go. Over the years I have spent more that I should have on small nuts, bolts and washers and they just sit there, so I thought I'd see what I could do with them I am bouncing around between the rear end and front end setup. The kit shocks aren't great and by the time they get cleaned up, they wont have much detail. I bought some random aluminum and brass tubing and rod to play around. I started making my own shocks. also have these beads I got a long time ago from Michaels and I think they will work as the tops and bottoms of the shocks where they mount. Rear shocks are being separated from the leaf spring mount I will be using the kit mount, but the molded in lumps will be drilled out and I will make U-bolts like this and fasten them with real nuts and bolts Also, I want to remove this molded in mess, but I think it will be impossible to keep a nice round axle housing So it is going bye bye and being replaced with aluminum tube. I hacked off a little too much, so I have to re-cap the ends of the housing. I will fill and smooth it out I did this by shaving out the inside of a slightly larger aluminum tube to make it razor sharp Then I used it as a hole saw/razor to punch out the caps from sheet styrene. Here are the beginning of the shock bodies. Aluminum tube spun in a drill and polished to a shine. The bodies will be painted, but the shafts will be polished They still need to be trimmed, but here is a mockup

That looks incredible. Nice job.

I also suspect some of this stuff sits on a shelf for a very long period of time. I know my local hobby shop doesn't sell much as far as scale modelling and the paint has been there for a while. They offered me discount pricing, but I just can bring myself to buy any paint there.