Quick GMC

Some inspectors are just dumb. I had to deal with adjusters for customers with aftermarket warranties on their Jaguars. Some get it, some can't and never will.

I ordered some turbos, halibrand rear end, 1/20 Webers and stacks, Holley carbs, Lenco 4 speed and waste gates. I'll post pics when they get here.

I know tamiya isa synthetic lacquer, does it work the same with other lacquers, like Scale Finishes, which I think is automotive lacquer? I haven't tried it and I hope I don't have to

That looks killer. The engine sticks out quite a bit (visually). I like it a lot.

insurance companies and politicians should all go get in a plane crash together.

I use the yellow can of Easy OFF. I also use an old brush attachment for my electric toothbrush and it does a pretty good job of loosening up the coating underneath the chrome. Sometimes I have to do 2 applications.

I have a heavy hand, so when I tried this, i needed to do a few light coats at a time. Let cure, then do it again. I think I did 3 separate sessions in between curing. Probably 3-4 light, but thorough applications each time. Sounds like a lot, but it was like one airbrush cup full for a few parts like an oil pan and other small stuff. I learned this from a retired Dentist on the large scale forum. Mine didn't turn out as good as his, but he had decades of experience with very light and tedious stuff. If you try and polish it like a clear coat, it's just going to burn through. Honestly, you only want to polish the flat or large surface area parts. The compound should be enough for radiuses and edges. It's frustrating to be honest. I don't believe Alclad compares to the Metalizers when they are sanded and polished like this, but it's so delicate I had a hard time with it and decided to try and master the Aclad. I love Alclad, but it is absolutely mind blowing what you can do with the Metalizers if you have the patience and the right touch.

I have this particular kit and it's not a great one for a beginner as far as body work goes. The headlights need a lot of work.

You can actually sand an polish Model Master Metalizers. It's not easy, but it can be done. So whatever color you use, like stainless steel, or aluminum , etc. you can use MicroMesh and a polishing compound. BUT, pretend you're polishing a soft dried powder, not cured paint. It can be done to look incredible, however it's extremely time consuming and if you screw up at the end, it's all over. If you clear any of these metal finishes, they lose their natural metal look. I use both Metalizers and Alclad. They give two different finishes and I don't think one is necessarily better than the other, it just depends on the desired finish. They are both sensitive to handling and the oils in your skin.

I saw pics of when they first started printing, the 1/12 stuff and it was rough. the new stuff isn't bad. I wonder if you could just use a filler primer or something, then sand smooth? I have never used on before so I don't know what the limits are.

I have some of their turbos and there is a bit of a texture, but nothing like when they first started out.

For the front end, with all the work I got myself into, I really don't want to bother with the shocks. Nobody will miss them. However, in the engine bay, there are two large holes where the shocks are supposed to come up through and mount. empty holes vs. lumps of plastic is not much of a choice. i will make dummy shock mounts. it will make the engine bay look nice, but there will be no shocks under them. I and using .7mm brass nuts and bolts, and 1mm washers, like a fender washer. This Or this All i have are cell pics right now, but when things start to get a little more complete, I will take better pictures.

Engine is not 100% but I wanted to start on the chassis. I didn't have anything specific in mind so I am just kind of winging it as I go. Over the years I have spent more that I should have on small nuts, bolts and washers and they just sit there, so I thought I'd see what I could do with them I am bouncing around between the rear end and front end setup. The kit shocks aren't great and by the time they get cleaned up, they wont have much detail. I bought some random aluminum and brass tubing and rod to play around. I started making my own shocks. also have these beads I got a long time ago from Michaels and I think they will work as the tops and bottoms of the shocks where they mount. Rear shocks are being separated from the leaf spring mount I will be using the kit mount, but the molded in lumps will be drilled out and I will make U-bolts like this and fasten them with real nuts and bolts Also, I want to remove this molded in mess, but I think it will be impossible to keep a nice round axle housing So it is going bye bye and being replaced with aluminum tube. I hacked off a little too much, so I have to re-cap the ends of the housing. I will fill and smooth it out I did this by shaving out the inside of a slightly larger aluminum tube to make it razor sharp Then I used it as a hole saw/razor to punch out the caps from sheet styrene. Here are the beginning of the shock bodies. Aluminum tube spun in a drill and polished to a shine. The bodies will be painted, but the shafts will be polished They still need to be trimmed, but here is a mockup

That looks incredible. Nice job.

I also suspect some of this stuff sits on a shelf for a very long period of time. I know my local hobby shop doesn't sell much as far as scale modelling and the paint has been there for a while. They offered me discount pricing, but I just can bring myself to buy any paint there.

The one time I bought Testors Spray, it sputtered out and left chunks on my model. I shook it, set it in warm water and shook it again before using.

I thought I would check and see if they have anything new and I ended up spending over an hour looking at all their designs. They have some pretty freaking rad stuff now Nelson Racing twin turbo Big Block complete system. They also make the twin turbo system with the Nelson Racing alien intake to put on your own motor. They have a triple stromberg setup and a ton of stuff in 1/24 & 1/25 now. Lots of turbo setups, intercooler configurations, etc. Also some really nice Holley carbs, etc. I am putting an order together for some stuff. They also have complete big block engine setups with Lencos and Muncies. Goodbye wallet I'll post some stuff when I get the parts in. I have already bout the 3" 1/24 turbos, which were way bigger than I wanted. I am looking for really small R/H & L/H turbos for my Tamiya R390 GT1. I am ordering the 2" 1/25 turbo setup, hopefully it's the right size. The parts look nice. They also have complete pro stock frames, bodies, etc. 92 pages of designs. Don't go to their store page, go to their design page, here: https://www.shapeways.com/designer/tdr.innovations?li=pb

Pictures always make you see little imperfections, it looks great. I notice I don't like photos of my work as much as I like viewing it in person. When this is done it will look awesome.

Great minds think alike. I am building the same car with the same pieces. Yours looks way more authentic, I like the fuel lines and wiring you did, looking awesome

Here is my 1/12 57 Chevy transmission done with the Dupli-Color cast iron http://imgur.com/btabQ

be very conservative on how much you spray. it's a thick enamel paint and can build up and ruin detail quickly. I just blip the nozzle a few times. When it dries, it's 2-3 colors and looks great. When you add weathering on top of that it's awesome.

Welp, this is nice too. Good Lord that looks good http://www.heeltoedriving.com/1970TwinTurboFirebird-42

Yes, but I'm okay with that.

combo on the left for me