Quick GMC

Bill quoted Carlin, Nick was replying to Bill. Keep up

if it is consistently late every month, is it really late at all? change the release month to two months ahead and nobody will ever know the difference.

The shine is throwing me off. The color and stuff looks good, but the shine is unrealistic. Maybe hit it with a dullcote here and there.

It's almost never actually realistic, but since these things are so small, it adds depth you otherwise wouldn't get. I added a fuel line to my 68 HEMI Dart that isn't there in real life, but it adds dimension to the small model. I like the detail that is achievable with these models and that's why I enjoy building. Unless it is a well documented racecar where there are pictures of every piece, I rarely strive for utmost accuracy. In the name dimension and detail, do what you must to make it pop. The unrealistic weathered chassis look much better to me than when they are not detailed at all.

I try and use as little words as possible when I google. Like last night I was loking at porsche stuff. Instead of using "phot etch part for tamiya porsche 962c" I say "photoetch tamiya 962" Then I go to images and look at the product photos here is web results with more words: https://www.google.com/search?q=photo+etch+parts+for+tamiya+962c&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 Here is iumage results with less words: https://www.google.com/search?q=photoetch+tamiya+962&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=ElpeVfjWB8urogSA6YDgDw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=1440&bih=865

I wouldn't consider this a serious accident A lot of people do stop, but a lot of people also stop to gawk and take pics.

http://i.imgur.com/Yk68gy2.gifv

I use Scale Hardware a lot and th only sizes you can really use are the .5mm, .7mm and .8mm. Everything else is to bi on 1/24 and 1/25

Instead of tape, use teflon tape. It's more flexible and you can extend or shrink it as you wish

This is pretty funny

the finish and effect of Metalizers comes from the surface. If you cover that surface with ANYTHING, it is going to take away from that finish. It's just that simple. It's an effect on the surface. not a color. If you were trying to preserve the color, without caring what the surface finish looked like, you can clear it. If you clear it, you will kill it.

The RAM won't really help with that. That would be your internet connection and processor. Your RAM speed helps when you are running multiple programs at a time, switching back and forth, etc. If you email and your browsing is slow, I doubt you'll see an improvement.

bodies can be done for much less, but you're at the mercy of what people are putting out. TDR has the Jag D Type in 1/24 https://www.shapeways.com/shops/tdrcatalog?section=TDR+Body+Shop&s=0

The brake calipers squeegeeing the rotors dry and the 90 foot reduction in stopping distance would be the difference between a crushed bumper and your face being scraped off the asphalt by the cleanup crew. They were pretty massive improvements in safety that can save lives if a truck blows a tire and comes over 2 lanes and is about to hit you, or and accident you otherwise couldn't stop in time for. Things happen that require assistance even when you are paying attention. The stuff I am seeing now with the auto parallel park and the lane change warning are pretty absurd though. Some cars even have a doze sensor to let you know when you're falling asleep.

This makes sense, thank you. I wasn't too concerned about it, but yes, the sections are shorter and not as robust looking. I can make a new driveshaft to compensate for length. I was really happy to get this since the kit lencos are a little lumpy and it is difficult to sand the seams without making it obvious. I forgot to order the bellhousing, so I am ordering that and some other pieces.

the 250 TR set was the only one that was a lot, around $100. The rest were not too bad, with the most expensive being around $27. I buy most from http://www.mediamixhobby.com.sg/shop/index.php I have been buying from them for years. Shipping is fast, prices are great and it gets here quickly. It's like a mini HLJ, they show actual stock on items. The Toyota GT1 I bought on Ebay for $70. It came with the Scale Motorsport set, the Sakatsu set and the Scale Motorsport carbon fiber template set. Pretty good deal considering I can't find the Sakatsu stuff anywhere. I build up shopping carts on various websites and when I have the money, I'll buy from one website at a time. Sometimes I have to wait 6 months or more before I can afford it. I have the Honda RA272 full detail set on the way as well, and the new BOSS 302 set from Hobby Design.

that's the first thing I thought, but it's a much larger discrepancy than one scale unit.

Someone mentioned in another thread that Shapeways is introducing Frosted Extreme Detail. They are eliminating the Frosted Detail, keeping Frosted Ultra Detail and introducing the new Extreme Detail. Pricing will most likely be significantly higher, but it is reported that the Ultra Detail is 29 microns high, and the Extreme is only 16 microns high, as far as print lines go. This is a huge improvement. I took this picture from the Shapeways forums. This is 1:48 scale and shows the difference between the frosted ultra and frosted extreme detail You can see the biggest difference in the legs

I never even knew about that. Pretty cool.

there are so many safety features that don't get attention, that people don't know about that have a HUGE impact. • Ford developed a system that "bends" light as you turn around corners. It directs the beams in the direction you turn the steering wheel and advances the angle so you can see better when you are turning corners. • Mercedes developed a system that is used in most high end cars today. The ABS and brake system is tied in with the windshield wipers. There is a light refraction sensor behind the rear view mirror. hen a water drop lands on or immediately around the sensor, it sense the light refraction in the water droplet. This gives the info to set off the windshield wipers. the more often it senses the refraction, the faster it pulses the wiper motor. BUT, it also sends th same info to the brake module, which in turn lightly pulses the brake calipers. It doesn't do it enough for you to notice, but this acts to squeegee the rotors clean of water to keep them dry and warm (friction) in the event you need to slam on the brakes while it's raining • Jaguar developed a system that was introduced in the 2004 XJ. It is called Panic Brake Assist. There is somewhat of a vacuum booster for the brake system, but what it does is when the computer senses 95% ( I could be off, maybe 97%) brake pedal application (DBW, drive by wire, no brake cable) it opens a valve and dumps all the vacuum from the intake manifold into the booster and it the brakes get nasty. This reduce the 60-0 stopping distance from 260 to 170 feet (Exact numbers could be slightly different). This is the difference between life and death. It took nearly 100 feet off the stopping distance. We got to test this when I was at factory training. Stand on the brake pedal and the rear of the car will stand up and the car comes to a stop in an insanely short amount of time without a peep from the tires.

This isn't today specifically, but my most recent purchases. I didn't include the TDR stuff, that can be seen in the aftermarket and resin forum. My Scale Finishes collection so far Acu Stion super detail kit + Hobby Design pipes for the Hasegawa TR 250 Hobby Design set for the Tamiya F40 Crazy Modeler set for Fujimi BB512 Hobby Design set for CLK GTR Hobby Design, Scale Motorsport & Sakatsu detail sets for Toyota GT1 I am waiting on the detail sets for the 911 GT1 and i forgot to take pics of the R390 GT1 sets I have.

I have a Revell Pro Stock? Tony Foti Camaro. I just bought the TDR 3D printed 1/24 Lenco tranny. It is way smaller than the kit tranny. I am wondering if the kit transmission might be a bit on the larger side, or if it is pretty accurate? I'm worried the parts I bought might be too small and look funny. I don't want to chop up the kit pieces until I can confirm.

The Lenco tranny is definitely not the same size as the Lencos you find in the Revell kits. Too short when assembled, which is something that could easily be dealt with, but the diameter of the sections are very small compared to the kit parts. about 6 months ago I bought the 1/24 Weber set with the manifold and everything and that is VERY small. I am going to use the 1/20 for my 1/24 Cobra build. They are a tiny tad on the large size, but much more accurate than the 1/24 set. I think the TDR 1/24 Weber carb and manifold kit is probably for a 289 FIA Cobra.

i use Tamiya primer and Scale Finishes. The only time I have experienced this texture, including Zero paint, Scale Finishes and a couple others, is when the paint was drying too fast, before it hit the model. I am by no means someone who should be giving paint advice, but I have been through quite a bit with airbrush painting to get where I am today. To fix this problem when I had it, I adjusted the PSI by sound/feel instead of looking at the gauge, opened up the paint flow a bit more and held the airbrush closer to the model. I was spraying too far away, my PSI and paint flow weren't in the right ratio, so I was getting a sandy texture because the paint was too dry when it hit the model. This will not allow the paint to flow into the cracks and crevices like I see in your model. Scale Finishes base coats dry very quickly, so you need to adjust accordingly. Also, another thing' If you paint too soon after the Tamiya has time to set, so it can go through and craze the plastic. I have experienced this with Zero paint lacquers, but not Scale Finishes.