Plastheniker

Great paintwork & attractive colour!

A classic! Very clean build, great interior.

Very clean and great colour choice!

Super clean and great interior!

Thanks for the recent comments! Sorry, that I overlooked the question at the end of your post. Yes, it is BMF on the side vents. Their mouldings are very delicate. Therefore I suppose that I applied BMF here before painting and that I removed the paint on the raised areas cautiously.

Thanks for all replies! As Richard said Corvette green metallics changed annually: 1969 Code 983 Fathom Green 1970 Code 982 Donnybrooke Green 1971 Code 983 Brands Hatch Green 1972 Code 946 Elkhart Green BTW when spraying metallics I use almost exclusively Humbrol paints. I still remember that when mixing this particular green metallic a test spray looked much better after adding some gold.

A really ambitious project and beautifully executed!

F l a w l e s s !

Super clean, great colour choice and paintwork!

Very realistic! The model would deserve a vignette or small diorama.

One of my recommendations will probably be the GMC 9500 cab. If so, it will make more sense to post them all in my old GMC topic and not here in the Mack thread.

Hi, This is another old build from the depth of my display cabinet. My old instruction with the AMT/Ertl logo says "Rev.7-91" so I suppose that my model is approximately 25 years old. I can't say much about the assembly, but this makes me suppose that there were no major issues. Anyway even by today's standards the finished kit made a rather convincing replica of one of the most attractive Corvettes ever.

Flawless work!

Flawless & beautiful!

Outstanding result all the more as today's Revell kit is the old and mediocre (to say the least) Protar kit.

Very unusual and very clean!

P e r f e c t !

To me such language restrictions don't make any sense, the more as even most Europeans don't speak German. Such restrictions only keep particularly committed foreign modelers from posting and make any forum less interesting. IMO, however, these restrictions in German forums are no nationalistic attempt to promote the German language. As long as East Germany was part of the Eastern bloc all pupils and students were forced to learn Russian. Only very few East Germans who left school/university before 1990 (i. e. before the German reunification) speak or understand English very well. I think German forums simply don't want to neglect such members. Thomas, I have 9 AITM cabs still in the stash. Regarding required skills there are obvious differences between them. After a surface impression 2 or 3 might be suitable as a first project. Since pictures tell more than words I am possibly going to add some pictures, so it might take some time.

This is really amazing! I left the Wettringer Forum after only 2 or 3 months early in 2013 because some of the moderators didn't do their jobs. Are you just watching the German content or are you even posting? I can't remember any member posting not in German though the Wettringer Forum seemed to be already the largest European modeling forum.

Peter, thanks a lot! I am always happy when an outstanding modeler like you appreciates one of my models. Thomas, I found my description in a German forum (Post # 14). http://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=44309 If anything is not understandable please let me know. I don't want to interfere in your decision but before tackling the F cab as your very first resin attempt you should be aware of the large and curved windscreens. Even if you accept the blemishes of the white glue method glazing them is rather difficult by comparison. Moreover for any Mack cab you would need a pricey AMT/MPC Mack donor kit.

Thomas, there is no PE necessary. I am sure that some years ago I explained how I made the grille but I don't remember where and when. Give me some time to search my old activities.

Thomas, I am sorry, I never start WIP threads. As mentioned in earlier topics I find taking pictures and making notes while building very disruptive - this was the reason why I stopped writing magazine articles many years ago. Generally I prefer How-to articles and tutorials because IMO they mean less expenditure of time for the author and more benefit for the reader.

Thanks for the replies! Making dashboard switches is simple, fast and inexpensive. pull-switches (as on the W-71 dashboard): Use easily available metal head pins with standard shaft diameters (mostly 0.6 to 0.7mm). Insert a pin into a rotary tool. Insert a cutting wheel (no matter if emery or diamond) into a second rotary tool. When both are running reduce the diameter of the pin head to a cylindical shape. Then cut off the pointed end of the pin to get a handy length. As described above when making chrome bezels use bright wire to make rings with an inside diameter slightly bigger than the shaft diameter of the pin. Such a ring simulates the visible nut that fixes the 1:1 switch onto the dashboard. Slip a ring onto the finished pin, drill a hole into the dasboard, insert the unit and fix it with super glue. toggle switches (as on the F dashboard): Use a piece of bright wire of an appropriate diameter (for 1/25 usually 0.4mm should work). With a plier with smooth jaws press one end flat. Cut both ends to the desired length. As described above when making chrome bezels use bright wire to make rings with an inside diameter slightly bigger than the diameter of the piece of wire. Slip a ring onto the finished piece of wire, drill a hole into the dasboard, insert the unit and fix it with super glue. Bend the rocker switch up or down.

Thanks for the replies! ... and (hopefully) sometimes mispurchases can be prevented.

Your pictures look very promising but unfortunately clicking the thumbnails opens only the same small thumbnails a second time. If you can't solve the problem on Fotki you could try Photobucket. I never had any problems there.