ChrisBcritter

Best schooling you can get is at kustomrama.com: http://www.kustomrama.com/index.php?title=Jack_Stewart%27s_1950_Oldsmobile Nice thing is you can see where the body cuts were made.

One notable difference between the '60 and '61 coupe kit bodies: the '61 has a trim molding that runs around the outer edge of the body cove from front to rear and around the taillights (interrupted only by the front wheel opening). It wasn't used to delineate a two-tone scheme on the real cars; the second color was still only on the roof. Other than that: '60: "Falcon" in script on front fenders and right side of the panel betwen the taillights '61: "Falcon" in script on front fenders plus a "winged" trim piece ahead of it; "FALCON" in block letters spread across taillight panel To be accurate, both should show a separation between the front fender and rocker panel plus a seam line running straight back from the bottom of the door to the rear wheel well:

Thank you Roger! It looks pretty straightforward to me. Somebody ambitious would be able to build the Polynesian from this combo (I'm shooting for street/strip circa 1960 with mine).

And with the two Michael's coupons, got the hose for the airbrush (which Hobby Lobby didn't have ) and some silicone rubber molding putty. Now I can make the clear backup light lenses for that '64 Chevelle; I'm going to try the Mod Podge Dimensional Magic for that and let you all know if it works.

Got an Iwata Neo siphon feed airbrush (chosen mainly for the larger nozzle) for Christmas, a '51 Chevy hardtop body to do the '50 Olds conversion, and two half-off Michael's coupons for today and tomorrow.

I'm pretty sure the double-to-single hood grilles were a running change on the '70. This was a one-owner original paint car when my boss got it; it had a build date of April 16, 1970: One scoop. The broken grille was in the trunk, along with a good small cowl grille off a blue car (owner bought it to replace the broken one but got the wrong part): I have more shots of this one if you need 'em. Don't worry about hood alignment too much; most of the real cars I've seen aren't lined up either. One other difference: '71s had a bigger ring in the center grille "bullseye" (although the '71 MPC kit grille was not corrected).

That time of year when kids are just thrilled to meet Santa! A very merry Christmas to every one of you from every one of me. :lol: :lol:

I've seen some excellent fastback conversions using 1/4 of a '51 Chevy and 3/4 of a '50 Olds, but I'd like to try a 2-door hardtop. Have any of you tried this conversion? I figure on cutting everything from the Chevy along the beltline from cowl to the edge of the trunk. What do you think?

Does Australia have a big enough hobby market to support a local model company producing injection-molded car kits? Like a version of Moebius or Galaxie International, and kits of Holdens and Oz market Fords/Chryslers?

Looking forward to this one - maybe I should go ahead and start cutting the hood out of my '64 Comet now?

Been looking for a similar story on the H.A.M.B. but couldn't find the post or the photo. in '66 or 67 some young kid bought a brand new 327/350 hp Nova SS at the dealer, stopped to pick up his friends, then went straight to the dragstrip where his friends watched him get out of control on his first pass and kill the car and himself with less than 50 miles on the clock.

Aha! Thanks for pointing me there: Somehow I keep thinking I saw wheels like these on some AMT kit in the late '60s - like some odd VW or show car or dune buggy kind of thing, but I just can't place it. I could definitely use these to make a baby Bellflower cruiser out of that '61 Comet I have stashed away...

Cool! (Do you still have the fenders?)

Cragar-style. Something like this: Like if I wanted to put mags on an early Corvair/Comet/Falcon/Skylark/F-85. Anyone remember a kit that had these?

Those are beautiful! Still want to do mine as a homebuilt speedster; anyone know of a kit that has some nice skinny wire wheels that would match the period?

Here you go - and it's safe too! No danger of fire!

Around $90-$100 for a clean builtup '57 Country Squire several years ago when I had the money for it.

R&R's '57 Buick Century. They only show up on eBay when I'm broke.

I've had many favorites, but number one is - of all things - the AMT '63 Chevy Nova wagon, with the AMT '57 Ford a close second. It's just something about the little wagon's nice clean lines and AMT's neat accurate job of recreating it in scale. I have two built Craftsman kits plus a six-banger from a regular kit, and I wouldn't mind having a couple more.

Congrats on the license, Tomo! At least you have a better VW to drive than I did when I was your age: New glasses for your girlfriend? Anyway, you make a cute couple!

Any parts I need, I check Modelhaus prices before I bid on eBay. For example, I'd like to change one of my '58 Ford convertibles to a hardtop. I know if I find a nice clean hardtop body it will go for more than $26 for a resin copy. But a crummy body with a usable roof might be a toss-up. After that last debacle bidding on '61 Pontiac parts and seeing a hood go for $33 I may be calling on Don and Carol more often!

As I was saying before things went pffft: It arrived a day early and since then it's been dismantled and thoroughly cleaned, flash removed from that right-hand taillight bezel, and I checked for fit of the glass from the '64 Comet to replace the windshield. The pins on the body are a bit wide but it will work. Off to look for a spare one and to order a Modelhaus windshield frame...

Man, that looks mean in primer and mags. Was yours originally molded in red? I've got one in progress; started with a bare body and basically gutted a Skyliner for everything else (fortunately as you know the parts fit very well) including the engine compartment and hood. Thinking about white and gold two-tone with chrome reverses and wide whites plus a '59 Meteor grille (made using a '59 Mercury grille).

If you need to repair a crack in a Cycolac plastic promo body, what glue works best? Does Tenax or Plastruct liquid cement adhere better than regular Testors? And for gluing a resin windshield frame to repair a promo body, which is better: cyanoacrylate, epoxy, or something else? Thanks!