VW93

Another from the same builder. This one was built much cleaner & has a very nice finish to the paint. I didn't need to repair anything on this Nova. I'll need to find replacement front tires as they are both kind of "crusty". The hood opens & closes easily with the original hood clip. Gauges & tape recorder on the dash, telephone on the console. My camera is not the best as I would like to have had a good picture of the rest of the interior to show. The interior detail is again very nice on this Nova. Silver chassis on this one also. I have one more kit from this builder,camera battery needs recharging.

I'll add a few that I've colleced over the years. This will remain as built except for some cleaning, replacing some tires & repairs. I have one mirror for it & may have another in some vintage parts I have. As most of you have stated, it's fun to think of what went through the builders mind as he was building over 50 years ago. This builder must have gotten a deal on silver bottle paint and spent his other hard earned money on spray paint. Windows need to be cleaned but all the accessories are glued down in the cargo area. I have the custom tail light spear & tail lights. As mentioned, he liked using silver bottle paint. Oh, and it is dry. It also came with the trailer & chrome Hemi. The trailer needs some TLC,the frame on it is also silver. I have the missing carbs for the Hemi.

I also meant to mention that Round2/AMT does a much better job on packing/protecting the contents of their kits. RC2/Learning Curve did an adequate job. I've found Ertl/AMT kits to have the most damaged pieces due to their extremely poor packaging. I just had to open a sealed '40 Ford Sedan from an ERTL issue from about 1987 for a rim I needed. The glass ,tires, and axles were all on the bottom of the box unbagged. Needless to say the glass is extremely scratched and has tire burn. I'll eventually have to open whatever I plan on building down the road and see how badly damaged those ERTL era kits are. Oh, and the ERTL kits were manufactured in the USA.

I would like them to find the tooling for the '61 Ford Starliner. Also the '67 through '69 Falcons. I know the Falcon was converted to a Modified Stocker but I would bet if they restored the tooling to pre MS they would sell quite a few of them

Thanks for all the great advice. I sanded & polished the rear inner fenders so the they were nice & smooth. Tested areas with both the 70 percent alcohol & the Windex with ammonia. Both removed the polish without harming the paint at all. I'm going to recoat it today. Thanks again for the help.

Round2 has been doing a pretty good job with bringing back some great kits from the past. I'm just a little curious as to where they are finding all the old tooling. Is it here in the States or in China? If it's here and they could run test shots in the States I would think that would be a no brainer. They could find out what needs to be corrected, fix it here, then send it over to be molded. If the tooling is in China I would figure it's a little harder to correct faults. I've bought quite quite a few of the re issues over the past few years (Double Dragster, 25 T, Super Bee ) and tire packs. I would have bought the '40 Ford Coupe if it had the all the parts & decals from the first Trophy Series issue. Same for the' 32 Ford Coupe fro a few years back. I would love to see the cycle fenders, cutaway hood and everything else from the first issue. They did include the original decals, but I have 5 issues from the 80's so to buy the last re issue just for the decals wasn't feasible. Again, they're are doing a great job so far. At least they are making an attempt to do the best with tooling that in some cases is over 50 years old..

Amazing detail. Your spark plug boots are the most realistic that I've seen used on a model.

Jesse Thanks for the offer on the pics. I'll let you know if the K Code isn't at the show. No, I don't resin cast. Contact Jeff Ballard at Motor City Resin http://www.motorcityresincasters.com/index2.htm (their Email is at the bottom of their homepage) If he is willing to cast one for you I'd send mine to him to cast it.

Still feeling the effects of this head cold so my '40 Ford is on hold for another day. I took the '65 Fairlane apart earlier. It actually almost come apart on its own. I pried the chassis from the rear mounting posts, removed the chassis and the interior dropped down on its own. Glass popped out next with slight pressure on the front and rear glass. The glass has some light scratches, I'll try to salvage it. I figured I might as well press my luck & try to get the seats and dash out. Rocked the seat assembly lightly & it came loose. Wiggled the dash & pulled it right out. The backing plates were pulled off the rusty axles after a bit of twisting & the engine fell out. I couldn't see where it may have been glued to the chassis. Next was tearing the engine down. The valve covers, carb and exhaust manifolds were off with minimal prying. The timing chain cover & belt come off with a little pressure from the X-Acto. The tail light bezels fought me until I cut the tips off the back of them. I scraped off whatever glue I could see from the back & then had to use some force to push them out. Only casualty was a small hole in the recess where the L/S bezel sits. Lucky that it won't be visible once the bezel is glued back in. Washed everyhing with Dawn detergent in some warm water, going in the "pond" tomorrow.

Ron, yes Jeff is great to deal with. I bought some resin T Jet bodies from him several years ago at the NNL East. I also did some mail orders with him, fast delivery & reliable. I'll try him as the Modelhaus doesn't appear to have it.

Jesse, yes the tub is an original and not in bad shape.I just got it apart awhile ago. I'll be posting a progress report with pics. There is a K Code Sports Coupe in the Mooresville, NC area. I may get a chance to see it at the All Ford car show at Mooresville Ford in May. I'm hoping it's there so I can get some good reference pics of it.

Rick,I've checked out the Modelhaus site and still need to make an inventory of what I'll need from them. I have a small bag of vintage bumpers that were given to me 25 years ago. I lucked out as there were a near mint F&R bumper set in the bag for the '65. I also found a useable '63 front bumper. These are going to be long term projects but the '65 will be the easist & cheapest one to do by using the Moified Stocker donor parts.

John, a roof graft at this point of my building skills (or lack of) would be a monumental task for me. I'm thrilled when I get visible parts glued without it looking like a glue bomb assembly!!! It will take awhile to get the parts needed for the '63, when my skills improve I may attempt it.

Thanks for the link to the glass Chris. I have a friend that is restoring an original AMT '64 Fairlane. I'll check his glass for fit in my '63 this week when I see him.

I came down with a severe head cold today and couldn't concentrate on my '40 Ford sedan build. I decided to go through some boxes of model parts that I've accumulated over the years. The '63 Fairlane was given to me about 25 years ago and the '65 I found at the Charlotte Auto Fair last year for $4.00. I checked the Modelhaus site & found I could get some of the parts needed for both cars. I'm going to use the '65 Fairlane Modified stocker that is missing the body as a donor for the '65, and kitbash the '63. The '63 is just a body and chassis, the '65 is missing F&R bumpers/grille, hood, firewall, radiator support and rims/tires. I found it interesting that the '63 has better underhood detail then the '65. The '65 will be built as a teenagers first car in the late '60's with either mags or chrome reversed rims. Most likely will stay with a 289 with a few speed parts on it. I'm not sure what direction the '63 will take, depends on what I can find for a replacement interior ,glass and engine for it. I'll work on getting the '65 apart this week & get them both in the "pond" and see what happens. The A pillar is cracked & the emblems & trim were sanded off here. Chassis has all the promo engraving touting the features of the '63 Fairlane. Looks like the trim is all there & nothing is broken on the '65. Afer it's stripped I'll have a better idea of what I'm up against.

Dave, PM me your address. I have spare headlights & vent windows if you want them.

I was given a small bag of vintage bumpers about 25 years ago. I've been able to ID the majority of them, but I need some help ID'ing these. Pictures are numbered with the back of the bumpers tagged with a "B". Hard to read but this is a 1962 bumoer.

After looking over all the areas where I sanded through the final coat I've decided not to touch it up. I'm going to strip the polish from it with some 70pct alcohol as was suggested when I requested help in the Q&A forum. I was happy with the glossy finish but couldn't live with the areas that needed attention. The drivers side door frame, side window frame, and where the body meets the fenders were pretty close to the primer. On the passenger side the panel behind the door had a small area that was down to the primer. R/F & L/R fenders also needed a touchup. I'll have to wait until Monday to reshoot it due to the rain here this weekend I stripped the rims from the first attempt at detailing, repainted & detailed them again. I'm satisfied with this attempt of detailing the hubs & lugnuts. Engine finished, I reworked the seams. Waiting for the cement to do its job before I install it. I hope to have it on 4 wheels tomorrow.

Thanks for all the advice. I have some 70 pct alcohol, will try that. Was also going to give it a light scuffing with some 1000 grit wet paper,wash in Dawn & then hit it with a tack cloth. Thanks again.

Ace-Garageguy,I didn't see your reply before I posted mine. I'll try the 70 percent alcohol on a spare hood I have. Thanks .

GeeBee, thanks for the advise. Is there any household product I could use ? 91 percent alcohol, Goo B Gone, or ? I'm house bound for awhile due to my back being out. I would like to use something I may have on hand.

My '40 Ford Sedan build is at a standstill due to some over sanding & polishing. After final sanding & polishing with some Mothers Plastic Polish, I found some areas that I went to far with the sanding process. I can still see primer where I sanded through. The only solution is to recoat the entire body and re sand & polish. I'm using Krylon Peekaboo Blue from a rattle can.It was also primed with Krylon white primer. What is the safest way way to remove the polish so I can recoat without any issues ? Thanks

Thanks Mark. I have several more I'll be posting tomorrow night.

I was given a small bag of vintage bumpers about 25 years ago. I've been able to ID the majority of them, but I need some help ID'ing these. Pictures are numbered with the back of the bumpers tagged with a "B". I have two more I need an ID on, I'll post them tomorrow Arrows are noting that this area is open front to back.