misterNNL

Glad to see you also to return to modeling.I took a 20 year hiatus myself and am having the time of my life being retired and building again.I an also relate to building while off work due to an injury.I was off several months with a broken pelvis and worked from a tv tray.Just goes to prove what one accomplish in a short time in a small space. That was 32 years ago and I cut up a model products co 1910-ish Ford roadster and made a high top coupe from it.I called it "the 2 week T"cause that's how long it till me to build it. Welcome back to the madness!

Let'step back from this build foe just a minute and wonder...........if these parts fit together so nicely.......Will the left over Nissan roof and the lower Chevy panels also fit together as well?I'm just sayin that parked together they would be interesting.

You're making all the right changes in all the right places.This model is already a great combination of design,attitude and styling.Following this build is real pleasure!

A one year delay.Well at least you can be sure the body putty is good and dry! Where are you getting your reference material?Just as a side note,I live about 30 miles from where the Miller-Meteor factory was located(Piqua,Ohio)and every summer there is a festival there that has a separate car(?)show for just Miller-Meteor built vehicles.There is always some really interesting stuff on display.A lot of "formal"cars were built in this area including Superior Coach in Lima,Oh where Cadillac flower cars were pretty much built by hand and Hess and Eisenhart in Wapakoneta,Oh that built limos.All of those are out of business now.

Maybe you could do a tutorial on the rusting technique you used.I'm sure that would be very well received.Great build so far!

Great build.I owned a real '66 Impala so this looks very familiar.The original big block cars were really powerful and impressive long before anyone used nitros or turbos .Just raw American pavement grinding horsepower!

Chopping that windshield was the right thing to do.You also maintained the curving sweptback look while do it.nice job.

Lookin neat.It has all three of my basic needs........low.....black.....and fast!!

That's how to get your "glass"down......kick something else up!Like the frame rails.Looking really good.Gonna be a traffic stopper.

I see someone else enjoys working outdoors as I do.After a particularly cold and brutal winter,being able to work outside for a little while is like a small victory over old man winter.

I love what you've done so far.working on a project like this one makes you want to move very cautiously doesn't't it?It's not like you start wacking away at these thinking that you can stop by your local hobby shop and pick up another kit and move on.You're Woking with surgical precision and doing it right the first time.I have a pair of these '58 Pontiacs that I look forward to rebuilding at some point In the future so I will enjoy watching this build progress.Be sure to check with The Modelhaus for that windshield that you need.

Welcome back to the hobby!I had a 20 year gap between builds.If there ever was a golden age of modeling this is it right now!!

This is really a build to be proud of.The odd angle of the chop is perfectly offset by the angle of the rake so it balances just right.headers set just right to compliment the lower body edge.Simply put,no matter which angle I see it from the design is right on the money.Great job!

Now you're talkin!The latest body mods are perfect.It's goodbye Broadway and hello Bonneville time!!This will be great build to follow.

Try aluminum welding rod for the headers.It's light weight,strong and can be polished to a chrome like shine with any type of metal polish.I use super glue to bond it to styrene.I got mine from a friend who does a lot of aluminum welding.Works great.

I am really enjoying watch this build evolve.I hope you will be able to maintain the stance shown in the initial set together.I might also offer an alternative material choice for the complicated plumbing you are creating.Try aluminum welding wire.The diameter is about right for what you are doing.I got mine from a friend here in town that does a lot of that type of work.It is very malleable,can be adjusted easily and polished to look like chrome with any polishing compound.I use super glue for attaching the stuff.Overall a great looking project that scores very high in the"gotcha factor"scale.Kind of grabs you by the eyeballs and won't let go!

Great shoebox model Paul.Welcome back to the madness that comes with our mutual addiction to all things styrene.I too came back to modeling after a 20 year absence not being sure if the old eyes and hands were still able to do what I wanted them to.I sincerely hope you enjoy building again.I know I'm having the time of my life!

Nice idea.You might want to check how square either the restroom outside wall is as there is a slight difference between that and the outside support girder for the garage door track.Just constructive critisism from a builder with a real problem with straightness.Having a photo op dio is a lot of fun !

If you decide to cast them sign me up!Someone creative could build the Mercury woodie kit as a mobile studio with speakers on the tailgate jamin out some Dick Dale sufin beach tunes.Any takers??

Thanks guys!I finally got in the high arched resin cast rear springs I ordered from Replicas and Miniatures Of Maryland so I am rebuilding the rear crossmember on the frame to accept it.I need to get this truck up on wheels so I can start the wooden bed and cab rails.Then on to the wrecker boom assembly.Stay tuned.

Great stuff! The salt spreader truck is my personal favorite.

You are most welcome.Actually building a second worm gear drive gave me a chance to do some things differently than the first time and I am more pleased with the second version than the first.

Frank,I added 16 new photos to the album today showing all of the steps needed to modify the AMT kit rear end into the TT worm drive.If any one has any questions please let me know.

I believe the part you're refering to is he quick change rear end rear end main housing.In the 1:1 hot rod world it allows the car owner to remove the gears inside and insert different ones with either more or fewer teeth.As we all know changing the gear ratios effects rates of vehicle acceleration and gas milage.In effect you can drive a hot rod as a commuter vehicle to work all week(wouldn't that be a terrible thing to have to do)with a gear set engineered for good mileage then change ratios on Friday night and go racing over the weekend. IMHO AMT included that part in that particular kit since they were giving us a kit we could a use to finally build a fenderless "highboy"hot rod in the Norm Garbowski "kooike's T" style and that genre of hot rods used that quick rear end as a widely used feature at that time.

I can do that.I will post something over the next few days showing the step by step modifications I made.I would really like to find a real TT so I can like my own photos and dimensions for a more accurate replica of that worm gear drive rear end.I have some photos taken of vintage literature showing engineering type cut away line drawings that I will also post at that time.