jbwelda

well things were going well which i should have taken as a sign. i sanded the base coat black only to have a section peel off, again. this is after re-prepping the car more than once. at that point i said to hell with it and threw it in alcohol to attempt a paint strip so i could start again. in the process i noticed something: the black i was using, tamiya, was PS-5. not TS-14, (gloss) black for plastic. "PS" paint is for polycarbonate material as it turns out. i assume that means clear RC bodies, to be painted on the inside and then not polished etc. i would bet thats why this ###### peels despite over-prepping the body. i knew there had to be something drastically wrong because ive never been confronted with paint peeling whether i prep a body or not. maybe its just me, but paint always seemed to bite into a surface whether i went out of the way to prep it or i didnt. thinking back i remember the lhs i patronize was out of gloss black so i went to the RC shop down the street to get some...obviously i was not paying enough attention. so...numerous travails later, the light bulb finally comes on. better late than never i suppose. so now i am going to have to wait for the alcohol to do its thing and strip the body, then go back and use the right paint for the base coat, repaint the interior section tan and then finally throw on the metallic black and clear coat. i am leaving for a week or more out in the desert saturday so i doubt i will get much more done on this car this month, maybe not even this year as i usually hang up model making for the summer anyhow. in fact i may just buy a new kit to get an unmolested body. this time i am going to do some more body work, remove the side chrome strips (i think those look dumb anyway, on a real KG as well as a model), probably strip off the front emblem and maybe the window drainrails along the sides of the roof. but i will have to see how i feel about it when i return because right now my patience is at a low ebb especially given the pain and suffering ive tolerated trying to get a decent paint job on the body. but its my fault for not watching the details. this model is on a short path to being stuck in a box and forgotten. it would be a shame with all the work ive put into it so far so that probably wont happen but i have to keep telling myself there are options.

yes capitol records has numerous plants they used for pressing records, but they all did so under direct supervision of the corporate office and did things the same way. i didnt really mean one physical plant, thanks for the correx. ps: if its the "beatles story" (edit: oops sorry, "the beatle years") radio program i am thinking of, look at the list of contributors. you might find the name "william just" in there.

good, i like lake front property. and i like real reggae music too.

not anymore, jairus! but one thing: i doubt there was a tower records in salem in 1963/64...tower records started in sacramento and didnt expand elsewhere until the late 60s at the earliest. i know because i started my record buying career at the 2nd to original tower records (only because the *original* tower "records" was in the Tower Drugs store where russ solomon's father let him start it, across the street (16th and Broadway) from its eventual "original" location. like i said i doubt there was a tower outside of sacramento until the late 60s and probably more like early 70s.

ps: if you want a *real* rare beatles album, find an original veejay label introducing the beatles. many bootleg ripoffs were issued in ensuing years but the original is worth a mint. literally, a mint. veejay was a little company with some success with the four seasons when they bid to represent the beatles in the USA. EMI eventually gave the contract to capitol records but meanwhile veejay released the beatles first record in the usa, and many of the songs either were not issued in the usa again or ended up reissued on capitol records compilations..."beatles" records in the usa were typically fictions made up by capitol records which included unauthorized overdubs, added reverb and effects, very poor master tapes and other atrocities. they never were much like "real" beatle records released in the UK up until oh post-revolver or so. anyway back to veejay, they got screwed and couldnt keep the contract and basically got sued into not issuing any more beatles stuff but meanwhile had reissued some really sketchy beatles material as "meeting" frank ilfield and other non-entities. pretty strange story. but the upshot is the original issue of their original beatles record (they werent famous until they hit with capitol in the usa, and the veejay effort largely molded on the shelf, despite it being a much more realistic representation of the beatles sound than the capitol "meet the beatles") never sold well and is consequently very rare these days. edit: i mixed up some of the details above and forgot to mention the REAL rare version is the first pressing, stereo, with only a couple thousand copies pressed ever. remember we are talking about records that routinely sold over a million copies just in the USA, so there are really very few truly "rare" beatle records. anyway full story here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Introducing..._The_Beatles

if you are referring to the butcher block cover here, im afraid you dont have a clue. if not, sorry for the intrusion: >My Aunt gave it to me after she tore off a corner thinking it MIGHT be one of the ones were the producer applied >a new face to the album jacket. Apparently there were three record producers and one simply glued a new paper >printed cover while another made a whole new sleeve and swapped the albums. Aunt Karen bought that album from >Tower Records here in Salem when it first came out. She had a good chance of getting the right one so I have no >hard feelings now owning a good copy with a damaged jacket. "record producer"??? the only record producer was george martin, he produced beatle records. if you mean "manufacturer" there was only one manufacturer of capitol records in the usa. and the story is it was released with the butcher block cover, they thought different of it after a few days and recalled the record to have a new cover pasted over the old, and then put them back on the market. later pressings had the new cover. a cover in original condition (eg: not pasted over) is called "first state", one pasted over but not removed or messed with, "second state" and one removed to reveal the original cover, "third state". you can tell a second state easily because you can see the image below in the white space of the pasted on cover. thats all from memory so maybe its a bit off but not far. a lot of "first state" records were sold before the recall, then a ton of "second state" (and inevitably third state as people removed the replacement cover) were available. there were hundreds of thousands of second state records available so they are not that rare, but turns out much rarer than third state ones because most everyone defiled the second state covers by peeling them (including yours truly more often than not) and i believe now second state copies bring quite a bit more than third state ones. if you were on about alice cooper than forgive me i know nothing about that clown...

>you don't happen to have an original Beatles "butcher cover" album, do you ive had three over the years, all found in thrift stores for cheap. sold them all. they are around in second state condition if you know what to look for, and the replacement cover typically comes off easily and well when processed properly. i actually had one i bought on original release but sold that back in 69 or 70 for a little college money. wasnt bringing big bucks back then but still enough for a couple tanks of gas for my porsche. i have japanese issues of rolling stones records that come with a tiny condom for the turntable spindle. kinda funny and it took me a decade to figure out what that dumb thing was supposed to be.

Q: what did the deadhead say when the drugs ran out? A: what the heck is this crappy music we are listening to?

i think that rack did come with the land rover i built. thats real sweet looking, ready to charge off to the outback eh? bright yellow makes them easy to spot from the air!

that paint is unbelievable! but whats with the water drop effect there? thats not a decal, right, you airbrushed it? i am in awe, seriously. the snake pattern is captured so well and those water drops just look right! amazing!

its funny though, as expensive as large scale can be, even Pocher large scale, it usually aint nothing compared to the cost and backache associated with that 1:1 out in the driveway or in the shed out back. seriously. plus you dont get your fingers mashed or greasy.

before throwing it into the stripper, i would try to polish out those overspray areas. its worth a try and unless im not seeing real problem spots, they look simple enough to have at least half a chance. looks great if you ask me. really nice work on the rest too, excellent job on those distributors! i didnt know these cars had dual ignition systems (not that up on mopar honestly), but that will make for a great nest of snakes on top of the motor!

totally awesome and all the more for being a replica! do you have any more photos of the original?

aw shoot i was going to suggest masking off half the body, or a cutaway section, and detailing under it like you were seeing through a real car.

ok heres is maybe or not a unique request: can someone who actually ordered some of this sell me half? its sure to be more than youll use in your natural lifetime (esp if its as toxic as it sounds, to me anyway...i dont like the "metallic" and powder part but what the hey), and i will be willing to pay for a good chunk of the total price for you, making your half very inexpensive. inbox me please if youre interested or email at jbwelda at gmail dot com. many thanks as always!

super porsche!!! >Add up the cost of a few bi-scale kits, paint for them, any aftermarket detailing items, and you have $90.00 to >buy a 1/8 Revell Big Tub ah but you forgot to follow that to its logical conclusion: buy the big tub and then you STILL have to buy all the other stuff, or more because the size calls for the extra detail. then you have 250$ in it!

thanks zuki, the paint actually is only a first coat and you can see in the back how it pulled off the body, again, when i removed masking. i dont know what the deal is here, i reprepped the body before painting the exterior, that means i sanded everything, washed it all very well, more than once, in warm water and dish soap, pretty much did everything but westleys bleach-white. hopefully that little patch was all there was to it. final finish will be tamiya metallic black with a few coats of clear over the top, should look much better, but right now im working on getting the wheels on and inside the wheel wells. thanks all for looking and as usual any questions comments criticisms cheerfully deflected!

ok time for an update, have reprepped the body (to mixed result, see below) and shot a base coat of tamiya gloss black. more significantly have completed assembling the interior, frame and front bulkhead areas, and have started seriously considering stance situation. once i had test fitted the chassis to the body it became obvious that big old muffler was gonna stick out way more than i had imagined, so i had to file a big section out of the rear of the body. having done that though, everything appears to fit alright back there now even if it is a bit off center (that whole motor is off center when you really start looking at it). i didnt like relieving that area as i liked the detail of the pipes exiting under the rounded areas on the rear lower pan, but such is life. so at least it presents a fairly clean appearance and in the final fitting it wont be cock-eyed like in the fitting photos that follow. now i am going to have to consider how to use the rear bumper...i would like to use it and the overriders as per stock but i might have to crop them off into bumperettes (would be ok) or even make some aluminum nerf bars (more "kustom" than i want really). another problem might be the hood to motor clearance...the observant reader might note i mentioned earlier in this thread that i was going to leave the air cleaners off for now so if i needed to use velocity stacks for clearance, i could. unfortunately things and time saw me glue them down permanently so again impatience rules the place around here. actually it looks like the air cleaners will clear the hood fine, it might be that coil assembly i placed atop the fan shroud that comes to cause the grief so we will see. i might offset hinge the hood to create a "scoop" effect like a lot of cars around cali do/did, but hopefully i can relieve the inside of the hood if necessary. so about the stance, as has been noted time and again, stance is 100% of appeal oftentimes, and i think thats certainly true with this specimen. here are some photos of a mocked up height, the rear tire is just about lined up with where the axle is, maybe 1/32 off so pretty right. the front however needs some serious dremel therapy as the wheels stick way too far out and dont even clear the outer fenders. as mentioned above by one who evidently knows, some narrowing of the front axle beam might have been a good idea. ahem. maybe next time then (seriously, im thinking of doing this whole project over with numerous improvements ive visioned during this build). but i think i can get the front wheels tucked down in the wells convincingly. will post more photos to show progress. one thing for sure: im glad i dropped that front axle because it would have sat way too high in the front otherwise. also some photos of the interior, the porsche dash looks great but does require some further dremel therapy on its outer edge. that will allow the interior (and the chassis) to sit up better inside the body and take care of some of the "cock-eyed" look of what i got here. heres some pics, first just some stance shots: no, it wont have this much camber! heres one showing the rear surgery required to fit that big old muffler up clear from the body. i would have liked it, and actually the whole motor, to sit further forward, but the transaxle bracing detail mentioned earlier prevented that. another note for next time. meanwhile next time i build this motor i HAVE to do something about that seam. it bothers me more everytime i see it. finally a couple interior shots. its looking pretty good but could use a coat of dullcoat and some more weathering. nice porsche seats, shift lever, dashboard though...

was that 30 ford touring a later reissue of the red chariot? i have one in similar condition that i have in the queue for rebuilding so it would be great to find a source for some replacement parts! im sure you will have fun with the restoration, i always do!

sheeyt, thats nothing a toyota land cruiser with a 12,000 lb rated winch couldnt get you out of. in like 3 minutes. wave a 100$ bill around and one will show up.

i really cant justify spending a whole lot of time building travelling cases for my big scale cars, so you guys are way ahead of me on that aspect. also i dont generally build (well ive only built two big scale in my recent life to tell the truth, but im working on two currently) cars that fit well into cases like a streamlined porsches. mine tend to have a lot of semi-permanent stuff hanging off them. however bedding them down in a plastic container with a pillow under them might work. i think i will try that tomorrow in fact at okie als spring NNL. i would like to see more of that porsche too!

thats looking nice and great job on the gradient masking!

i could add one more thing: the pain it is to transport a large scale model (i mean 1/8 scale here) to a show not to mention multiple 1/8 scale cars. its not like you can just put it in a small box with some tissue around it. ive had to build stands and glue them to glass sheet to even sort of safely transport big scale cars to shows and even then its pretty sketchy getting back and forth from the car to the tables. my big tub got half destroyed last time i took it to the NNL west by a gust of wind coming up and nearly causing me to drop it. i caught it in time but knocked off the windshield and busted the front axle. it came back better than before but it was still a pain to redo it. another problem is the definition itself "big scale". what does that mean exactly? to me it means 1/8th scale but then to others it means 1/12, even 1/20. that to me is the problem with "big scale" modeling in general: the model companies never really chose a scale and stuck to it. just think if all the 1/12, 1/18 were 1/8 instead...we would have parts for days to swap in and out of our big scale cars. i also agree that the mindset isnt pro-big scale at contests and they are often an afterthought, shoved over to the side and largely ignored. TDR is gonna change that though from what ive seen with introducing a whole new spectrum of parts and possiblilites to 1/8th that wont be easily ignored.

oh i see, makes sense. what i really love are the spoked front wheels on the fiat, strip the chrome, paint magnesium and then dullcote. im so glad they reissued these cars and esp with the extra parts.