jbwelda

that mag looks a little too much like real life to me. on the other hand maybe i could get a car featured in there.

oh was zeb "henry"? i guess i missed that connection. >got to the point I would not read his posts well to me thats the beauty of the situation: if you dont want to read em you dont read em. from the other side that means if you say something no one responds. so it ends up in your best interest to speak/write legibly so as to, well you know, communicate.

im still waiting for the release of the "clear view" spray paint. that should be something...especially the more expensive kind where you spray an empty engine block and you can see the pistons and valves and crank and stuff i hear they are working on that right now, due for a july release.

thanks for the reply; evidently ive never seen the revell kit because i didnt know it came with a motor...is it very realistic? i made some comments on your car on the other thread, about 1:1 rides...esp those headlamps. aint nothing chick car about a miata or at least not when you get into one and go into corners...will leave most steroid cars in the dust in my experience.

>they could bend some piano wire and insert it in the cavity before >pouring the resin. yes that is sort of along the lines of what i was hoping was available. however i have been looking for something like this without much luck so i guess im down to the other option (or, more likely, the option of just leaving it like it is and calling it better than it was when it got to me which was in a bunch of pieces). thanks anyhow

i say forget ferraris; give us coopers, loti and brms

i hate to break it to you but zeb wasnt banned, he left. and the day "writing style" dictates whether someone is banned is the day i post no more. not that you asked or anything.

is it april 1st already? watch out for the plastic eating mites. i hear they are back and feasting on your kit stash as i type

is that a ferrari badge there on your miata? cause i have a miata and they aint no ferrari thats for sure. and whats with those headlamps? they look better than the stock wind breakers...do they retract or are they up all the time? pretty sharp looking all in all... one love jah bill

i too am building a replica of my 1:1 miata but using the tamiya kit. i am currently stalled from trying to stuff too large wheels and tires under the fenders...it was much easier on the real thing. what are you going to do for a motor for this one? modify a lotus twin cam? they are close enough it wouldnt be that big a chore to do so...check out oh i forget who made them...white metal lotus twin cam motor...maybe it was replicas and miniatures of maryland? i put one in a thames truck that i modified to be a lotus parts deliver truck and it looks sweet...probably just sanding off the "lotus" from the valve covers would make it close to the miata twin cam. this motor originated in the gunze sangyo lotus elan with motor but it would be easier and cheaper to just buy the white metal repop

my current stable includes: 1996 nissan 240 sx bought new in 1996, lowered and suspension tuned but otherwise stock 1991 british racing green miata, lowered, suspension tuned etc 1985 toyota land cruiser fj60, chevy 350 with efi and non-usa 5 speed, lifted, rear locker, lots of other mods, used for desert exploration mostly (death valley, utah, arizona) in a never ending quest for petroglyph/pictographs/ruins from vanished civilization, and occasional runs to mainland mexico and central america for jungle exploration 1958 lotus seven type 1, long term restoration and road race car. recently sold: 1975 VW Thing with two litre 914 motor and running gear among other mods 1954 MGTF that i had owned since 1965, my first car.

city styles club is in sacramento and we meet every last tuesday of the month (this month that would be tomorrow, april 24) at the round table pizza on folsom blvd near 51st street...approx 6pm - 8pm. come out if you get the chance otherwise you can call me at 916 442-8744 for details of what we are doing. we would love to see you come to our meetings...we have people who build all varieties of vehicles, from novelty vehicles, to drag cars, to all sorts of race cars, low riders, tuners, hot rods etc. in short something for everyone.

so as ive mentioned elsewhere im in the middle of a big tub rebuild. one of the things i notice is that its pretty much impossible to make the dropped front axle look decent seeing as how it has this big seam running lengthwise due to the axle being two parts. so the question is: does anyone know where to get a (presumably resin) one piece front dropped axle for the big t/tub/rod/drag etc? (actually i believe the big drag used a different axle so it may not apply here). it would really be nice to avoid having to dechrome/take apart/put back together/de-seam/re-chrome the kit axle even though i realize i would still have to deal with refinishing a resin axle. anyone?

thank you. i dont build much of any of this sort of stuff but those certainly look like usable castings there to me. kind of makes me wonder what the original problem was or maybe it was just a freebee like the guy said.

>glue a piece of plastic to the short side and get on with life. oh if only things were so simple. what about if thats like that for a reason? a reason thats not obvious now but will become obvious along about the time you, oh, try mounting the body with all the stuff on it to the chassis with all the stuff on it? see, i have to believe that occasionally even model manufacturers get it right. and if you second guess them you end up on the receiving end of a "gotcha". maybe its just me, but i think the original poster has a valid question

>then, we can move into the public service sector and explain >that 'howyadoin?' and 'y'allset?' are not synonimous with "may i help >you?" and "no problem" is not synonymous with "you're welcome".

wow i just went to that layitlow site...man that place makes war here look like peace! they are right about the donks though.

i still am, jairus! jes don ckek ma spalin

ive only experience with scaletrix (sp) track but quite a bit with that. i did notice that silicone tires tended to leave a bit of a trail but we could clean our track with some junk every couple of weeks and it didnt seem to build up. also obviously the track im using is mottled in texture and that may be a difference between it and a smooth track. but for sure silicone tires made the cars stick a lot better; that was more pronounced with magnet cars but seemed to apply even with non-mag ones. but note: with non-mag cars i often put a lot of weight on them, as low as possible, and that seems to minimize the amount of wheel spin i get from non-silicone tires. note everything i say relates to 1/32 scale "realistic" cars, not 1/24 scale "gofast blob" cars so maybe youre just running a lot more HP than i typically do in this situation. but to directly answer your question: ive not experienced anything of the severity you mention where non-silicone tires wont even grip no matter what. i think maybe its the paint you put down for the track surface...maybe too slick for rubber tires.

i used to have problems with yellow but two things have seemingly cured that: a) i spray a base of gold over primer but under the yellow. seems to make it look a lot more opaque with less paint and tamiya yellow rocks.

what the hell??? no way.

could you show us the bodies as they come straight from you please? you know, without a million hours work put into them? note: i dont know either way but with a tude like that i figure theres gotta be a trick involved. and a john.

i think i like that second photo there...

test it and let us know but i wouldnt try it on anything i care about

>Yes thats my real name, and No Im not with the Rolling Stones. sorry for the off topic interjection, but i couldnt resist: dont worry the other ronny wood isnt either. at least not that you could tell anyway. one love jah bill