Straightliner59

I'd guess here: https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/forum/9-model-car-racing/

Thank you kindly, Pierre! I will give it my best effort, you've my word. Eh, these little challenges keep things interesting, no?

Thank you, Dennis! While I am still working on the inner door panels, I wanted to look ahead to the body. Earlier in the thread, I mentioned that I had cut the rear "cap" into two sections. I had to shim under the taillights, to raise the upper section, and just generally make the fit in that area better. I tacky-glued the upper section in/on, to provide a look at how the lower area would now fit. That fit is much better! Especially where it meets the bottom of the QP. It will fit a bit tighter, in the bumper area, but, the bumper covers that gap, anyway. I've sanded off a bunch of the raised strip above the rear bumper. I plan to replace it with something thinner. I saw a photo of one using the treatment I am hoping to achieve. I'll need to thin the trunk lid, at least along the sides. With these modifications, I will be able to permanently mount the nose, and the upper tail area to the body, prior to paint. That will leave only the bumpers, and the lower section of the tail, which is a separate piece on the real car, to attach. I'm planning to add a racing type external fuel filler to the front hood. As always, questions, comments and critiques are welcomed. Thanks for looking!

I found them at Dollar Tree. They're not terribly expensive at Walmart, either.

I recently used one to make this fire bottle.

I got one of the new releases of the Revell Model A pickup. It's one of those kits you can't have too many of, if you like vintage speed! Also, I wanted one of the Harleys. I had one about 40 years ago, and was able to make a mold of the engine, so I could do a drag bike, but, it's not great, so another chance at it will be nice. Also got a scalpel handle and 100 #15 blades for $10, shipped!

I finally got all the gaps covered, in the rear section of the car. I got the new inner door panels cut and mounted, and made some cones for the speakers. Once those are done, It'll be time to finish the body work and paint prep. It's getting there. Thanks for looking!

For small parts, aluminum knitting needles from the dollar store are cheap, and they machine, nicely.

Thank you, my friend! 2022 was when I initially started playing with the sail panels. I had zero plans of building it, I just wanted to see if I could make those look better. Turns out, I could! They still need a bit of refinement, but they're already better than what Revell did. Anyway, once the computer thing happened, and Steve said it was his favorite car, it ended up on the bench. I'm a tad envious of all my friends who are currently building drag projects! The 914 definitely isn't my favorite Porsche, by a long shot, but, it's been interesting to learn a little something about them. And, scratchbuilt parts are still fun to work on, no matter the subject! I have already told him that I want to compete with it, once or twice, first! I am quite happy with the work I've done, so far! I'm currently working on the inner door panels. I whacked the armrests off, and made aluminum panels. All the doors will get will be window cranks, door handles and a pull strap, to close the door. I should have some updated photos, in the next day, or so. Thank you, again for your kind words, Francis. They always mean a lot, to me.

Can't wait to see their '57 Chevy! Maybe they'll give us a Maverick! Yeah, uh, no. Great kits, to be sure, but...

Glad you got the frog installed. It looks like it's where it's supposed to be, too! Excellent!

A few things that have arrived over the last couple of weeks (except the Revell 240Zs). I've wanted one of the Tamiya 240Zs since I first saw one, and was finally able to afford one. I never planned to start collecting Datsun 240Zs, but, here we are! The mesh is radiator mesh from CTM. I haven't had any mold putty, for quite a while, yet I use it fairly regularly for making quick molds of simple parts. Glad to have that back on hand. I got the FSM/SA Contest Annual, and an assortment of thirty 1"X30" belts for my bench sander.

Look, ma! No gaping holes! Now, I just have to make a filler, for the step, between the inner walls and the outer. It's pretty satisfying to look at the wheelwells from the side, and not see light! I've shifted my thinking, re: the hold-downs for the engine compartment and trunk lids. I ordered some 1/32"x1/16" magnets. I can then just cover the holes with photoetched Dzus fasteners. That should make everything easier to deal with. I think that's about it, for now. Thanks for looking!

They all start out, that way! I've driven a few new trucks, over the years. For a few days, everything looks clean and shiny. I can imagine a plow would start showing wear almost immediately, but, they do look good, when they're still spiffy! This is a real beauty, my friend.

I was about to say the same thing, pretty much! That plow looks like a real one, sitting on a warehouse floor. Beautiful!

Thanks, guys! These really are fun to build! I'm going to have to pick up one of the Stuarts!

Those are my favorites! You still have to get everything right, as far as equipment and any graphics go, time-wise. You, too build replicas of imaginary race cars.

Mike, I was looking at my Surfers' chassis, before work, today. Gotta get the Porsche done! I need a "spoker" in my life!

If I see "Brass" and "FED" in the same subject heading, you know I'll be there!

That's exactly correct! Pactra Notox comes to mind. Smelled like lemons, stuck like...well, it didn't!

That's exactly what I did. I used Weld-On 4 to dissolve it. It's the same stuff I use for cement. I'm not sure what it is. I don't think it's MEK, though.

Thanks, Rusty! I have a lot of experience, working with small things!😂

Yes, I certainly did!😂 Thank you, Mark. I used to have a commander for the Sherman. He was mounted to a separate base, and drinking a cup of coffee. I was dabbling with figures a fair amount, at the time. I have always figured that building a variety of subjects from different areas can only improve our abilities. I was also experimenting with weathering, even practicing on N scale train cars. At some point, probably 1987, I recall seeing Russ Schwenkler's Sauber Mercedes at Dallas, and noticing that his interior finishes looked beautiful, and employed techniques from figure painting. I've played around with some of those, for cars, but, haven't quite had the confidence to really go for it. It was kinda fun to beat those guys at their own game. I knew them, so it was all good-natured! Thanks again, for your kind words! Thanks, Joe! They're a fun diversion, for sure! I have a couple of 1/144th aircraft, I've been thinking about. I have a Warthog, and some cockpit parts, for it. I also have an AC-47, which might be kinda cool!

I built these sometime between 35 and 40 years ago. Nothing too fancy. A few tarps, mostly, and a tow cable on the tank. I built the Sherman, on a whim, in a day. It won the small scale armor class at the IPMS regionals, that year! They were grousing that I only spent a day, on it! I gave it a good bath, last night. I had it out to replace the barrel, which had broken off. While it was out, I used a colored pencil to apply some highlights to the tarps, and a soft drawing pencil to give it some wear, in certain areas. Finally, I hit some areas with Tamiya black panel wash. I still need to replace the antenna. I haven't done anything to the Humber--yet. It needs the barrel for the cannon replaced. These were quick and easy detours, just to do something different. I am thinking about building one of the Stuart tanks. "Tanks" for looking! (Sorry)

Thanks, Mike. I appreciate that! Somehow, I'd ground off the point above the taillight, on the left side of the car. I've avoided using sprue goo for filling, because I don't trust it not to shrink, over large areas. However, I decided it would be the perfect medium to repair the damaged point with, as it would more readily become a part of the body than attaching a piece would. I made a fairly heavy batch, and applied it to the damaged area with a toothpick. I let it set for a couple of hours, then dabbed on another bit. It worked like a charm! The high viscosity allowed me to pull the toothpick away and form the point. A bit of light sanding later, and here we are. Thanks for looking!