Straightliner59

I bought six or seven small cans, about eight years ago. There's one chain of local paint stores that still carry it. When I first bought any, about 40 years ago, it contained lead. I haven't looked at the newer ones, to see if it's gone, or not.

I first bought it for lettering models, but discovered that it's great to shoot.

That's what I painted my Badman with. I mixed a purple from red and blue,cut it with lacquer thinner and shot away! It flows out, so nicely.

Here you go! I found 'em.

Detail Master has nice ones. They're right for the era. If you find the thread for my Junior Fuel dragster, you can see them.

I'm a little surprised someone hasn't done them, yet. That would definitely be the way to go.

And yes, I enjoy scratch building K valves. Does anyone know if there is a resin one available? You do a great job, with them! They are tedious to build, but they're a detail worth doing correctly. I have a mold Don Fahrni and I made forty years ago, or so. It's still viable, but even using nail resin, it sometimes takes a couple of tries to get a good one. It's such a small, detailed cavity, it's difficult to get resin in all the places it needs to be.

I think that '92 is the best vintage Hemi around. Still. Congratulations on attempting an entire engine! I have yet to attempt that. Nice work!

If I need to. Usually, if applied soon enough, the slightly tacky paint will fix it. I should add that I also use the pencil to pick out/highlight some of the bolts, and other raised details.

Glad you're sticking with the "W" Head! Looks way cool!

When I want to replicate old steel, I generally start with a semi-gloss/satin black base. I use Krylon paint, because it dries quickly. About 15-20 minutes after I shoot it, I use a flat-tipped brush to work in a mixture of powdered pastels, usually a mix of tans, greys, pale yellows, and browns/brown-reds. I also hit the edges and corners with a soft drawing pencil. Finally, I lightly apply some pencil, using the side of the point, and rub it in, with a Q-Tip or soft cloth. I like the understated look.

I,ve found that it's easier to fit the foil through the slots, before drinking the wine!😅

Nothing wrong with that!

Yessir! I use it, almost exclusively, for straps.

I like to use wine bottle foil for belt material. I like that I can pose it to look more natural, than the ribbon, or paper that is usually supplied.

I finished up the polishing, and added the bumpers, grill surround, grille bar and headlight assemblies. Looks to be getting close! Thanks for looking!

I will be looking forward to what you will do with one of these , my friend!

The body's polished out, excepting the left front corner--basically, the left side of the hood is all that's left. Then, I'll look for little missed spots, and fix those. I also have added .080" half-round, to the top and bottom interior of the windshield. Those'll get bare-metaled. I am close to installing the interior and chassis, into the body! From there, about all that will be left to install will be the bumpers and lights. Thanks for looking!

I agree with Bill. Bare-Metal is going to be your best bet!

What Andy said! You're off to a good start!

I am going to use that technique with the tape! Great call!

I have been using Parafilm for masking, the last few years. Use the warmth of your fingers, as you apply it, to seal the edges. It's low-tack and residue-free. It can pretty much be applied, as soon as paint is dry to the touch.

Yep! That's the original release. I picked up one of the cabovers, a few years ago--before AMT announced the re-release.😅 It has a great deal of sentimental value, to me, anyway.

I use Krylon satin, or semi-gloss black.

I use a lot of Krylon. I would recoat it. Most Krylon can be overcoated at any time, according to the can. I've found it to be true! I've completed paintjobs in a day, using Krylon.