Straightliner59

Thanks, Brian. I was surprised at how easily the wire went through! The wire I used bound a little, right as the loops were closing, but, I was able to get them tight enough, that they look okay, I think. But, feeding it through the eyes was easy as throwing a hotdog down a hallway!😃

Thanks, Scott! I appreciate that! I'm glad you're finding new stuff, each time, you look. I've always enjoyed people's models that are that way. I have always found that "interesting" for lack of a better word. Thanks again! Thank you, my friend! It's definitely important to at least attempt to keep things as close to scale, as possible. When they aren't, things can look cluttered, I think. Funnily, enough, the balls are bright yellow. They were quilting pins that I turned down. I debated leaving them as they were, because the finish looks very similar to a scale tennis ball--dull, and almost fuzzy-looking. Ultimately, I decided that they wouldn't stay bright yellow, for very long, hanging around pit areas, so I rubbed some pastels on them. And, you are correct, I am beginning the bodywork! I've re-scribed the door lines, and started getting the mold lines cleaned up. I need to do some research on the mouldings for the windshield and backlight, because they are very faint, on the model. Thank you for your kind words, my friend, and thanks for following along! Thank you, my friend! I'm pretty excited! I'm really looking forward to seeing it in paint!

Tethered!

I pick up so many machining tips through your threads, Francis! It's been a big help in my inspiration, and in the progression of my skills. Thank you, my friend.

The plug wire chronicles: I wanted to use orange plug wires on this car. The first wire I had planned to use was a fair amount smaller than the wire that's on the model. Unfortunately, it was highly glossy, and glue wouldn't stick to it. No problem, I have some old MSC orange plug wire, which I installed into the spark plug holes, using grey wire insulation as boots. So far, so good. Once I installed the mag, and was ready to start making the boots, I discovered that the insulation on this orange wire makes it a couple of thousandths thicker than MSC's other plug wire material. That small added thickness made my normal method of making boots unusable. I remembered a friend of mine who used built up paint to create 90-degree boots for a Monogram Cobra. I always thought it looked pretty good, so, in place of built up layers of paint, I applied small "dablets" of UV-activated glue to 90-degree bends in the wire. Once they were built up, I painted them with Humbrol British Equipment Grey. I applied the boots as I installed each plug wire. It's not what I was planning on, and it's not quite as nice, but it looks okay, and the mag's not out in the open, anyway. These wires were very stiff, and difficult to work with, too. I wish they were better, but, they're not as bad as they might have been. 🙄 Once the plug wires were connected to their correct terminals, it was time to add a little color to the fun! I installed my whimsically-colored injector stacks, with their protective plugs. I have some time to consider whether or not I'm finished with the chassis and engine assembly while I get some work done to the body. I think it may have a slight twist up, at the front left. It's not a lot, and the body-to-chassis mounting is about as sturdy as it could get, so that may be enough to pull it out. I'm looking forward to getting paint, and my decals on this thing! I'm getting excited! Comments, questions and critiques are always welcomed. Thanks for looking! P.S. I've since added the tether cord to the tennis balls.

I thank you, my friend! I think you just might know a thing or two about determination, yourself!

Testors 1146 has never been out of the line.

Those wheels look much better! I have some parts from a Johan kit lying around here, someplace.

I have punches in many sizes. I just find the right size, and make some clear plastic discs to fit. That said, I most frequently just build my gauges, so I am able to use/make stuff that fits together (proper sized "glass" for the opening).

I think I probably bent my first one up in the mid-'70s, or so. It's been around for longer than I, I suspect.

That's what I strive for. Most of the guys in modeling I have "hung out" with (some are online friends) espouse that philosophy. The guy who first got me interested in this stuff told me that, too. He probably hasn't touched a model in 50 years, but his advice stuck with me. Without scratchbuilding, I think I would be bored with modeling. I mostly started scratchbuilding, because I simply found it more enjoyable than scraping and sanding mold lines, etc. Your kind words are always appreciated, my friend! I am very happy with the way this mag turned out!

Coming along, nicely, Ian! Body is looking great!

I had hoped to get a little farther along with this, but, we had some arguments, along the way. I have four cylinders hooked up. Once these are finished (I see a bit of touchup I need to do, on the cap), I am pretty sure I can install the stacks! I got the tennis balls inserted into the stacks. I used Alene's tacky glue, for easy cleanup, in case. I'm about to doze off, so I'll try to remember to elaborate on the boots, after work. Thanks for looking!

From where we were, this morning, we've come to this! It's easily the most detailed mag I've ever built. The cast-appearing body and the sorta shiny cap were both shot from the same can of paint--Krylon Satin Black. It's a nice contrast of textures, I think. I made the Cirello tags a few years ago, for my Junior Fueler. I already had them applied to aluminum duct tape, so all I had to do was cut one out, and stick it in place. The cap hold downs are just folded tooling aluminum. It's not cemented into place yet, but will be, as soon as I figure out where I want to mount the ground wire. The red wire will exit through the firewall. I couldn't find a schematic that showed specific colors for the wiring, so I went standard red/black. The coil wire isn't cemented in, yet, either, as it will be easier to wire the plugs, first. Next will be making 90-degree wire boots. They're labor-intensive and can often be frustrating. They're worth it!😃 Actually, those will probably be second on the list. First, since I've already dirtied my balls, I will probably install them. Yes, there will be pictures!😂 As always, questions, critiques, and comments (even smart-alecky ones) are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

I've used one that's very similar, that I put together years ago, however--that silicone tubing is pure genius! Next time I see some...thanks for the tip!

Thanks, Brian! I just love making this stuff! I'll start doing something, and forget to eat for hours. I might be a little nuts, but, it's fun!😅 Thank you, kindly, Pierre! Hey! I gotta' keep up with that Mercedes!😃

Here are the castings, and, finally, I think, better photos of the mag.

The turbos look awesome, and this is a great reference for building some. I agree with Greg--hope the guy's okay.

Stopped in at the best shop in town, last evening and picked up a few unexciting items: The latest contest issue from the remains of the other magazine, a package of 1/16", and one of 3/32" K&S aluminum rod, and a smaller bottle of Mr. Color Levelling Thinner, because I've heard good things about it. I may try it in the One-Shot purple I mixed for the Badman project I'm working on.

Thank you, sir! I'm in the process of making new mag caps--well, I'm to the point of cleaning them up. They're cast from nail resin, with lugs/teats of old Bell phone wire insulation. Here's a link to a tutorial I did on making them. It's cheap and easier than drilling holes in a 1/25 mag/distributor cap! Here are a couple of photos of what I have going on, now. One thing I will say for these--they're durable! I've never had one of the bits of insulation come free, even with rough handling. I was hoping for better photos of the mag, as well. Also, I've included a photo of what I'm going for a reasonable facsimile of. Anyhoo...Thanks for looking!

You could also stack plastic discs (or rubber). Then drill through for the rack. That would be a drawback for the rubber. Maybe tiny O-rings, stacked?

AMT was using some pretty funky plastic, around that time. It was almost rubbery. It was difficult to keep mods and sanded-off details from reappearing after primer.

I've had good results with contact cement. Lately, I have been using GS Hypo cement, and it seems to be working, so far. Flashing is very easy to use, for flat panels--especially where rigidity is needed. For compound curves, it has to be annealed, first. The body for my Nostalgia Top Fuel dragster is flashing, except for the nose and tail sections, which are tin. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I have a fair amount of experience!🙂

Also, for aluminum, I like Maid-O-Metal tooling aluminum and aluminum flashing from the hardware store. I use a lot of aluminum!