magicmustang

Had a problem with a set if Slixx decals. The decals were shattering when I tried to remove them after soaking in warm water. Notified Becky at Slixx. She agreed they had a problem with the red decals in that run. Said she would send a new replacement set out to me today. In today's business world where customer service is dying, it is refreshing to see that there are still some who take care of their customers. Thank you, Becky and Slixx decals. I highly recommend their products and their service. MM

I had pulled down from the shelf of doom a USA-1 '74 Vega Pro Stock that I had traded for years ago. It had been built fair, but the decals were shot, so into the purple pond it went. Got the engine done, added a Lenco trans, wheels repaired, simple chassis repainted and interior with scratch built shifter repaired, Then I lost interest, so back on the shelf of doom it went, were it sat for years. Having finished the Bob Glidden '75 Mustang II pro stock, I decided it needed a worthy competitor. So, I pulled the '74 Vega pro stock back down. Got it painted (Testors rattlecan Classic White with Testors Red stripes). I had a set of Grumpy's Toy Vega decals for many years. They worked out just fine. One more to go (Grumpy's Toy '76 Monza pro stock) Comments welcome.

Thank you, sir. The wheels were in my wheel parts stash. I had to widen the rear ones by cutting off the outer rims off the narrow one and adding a wider rim from a different one.

Here's a kit I've had on my stash for years. Was an MPC Fire Fighter Mustang II Pro Stock kit that was missing some parts. Acquired another one that was also incomplete. Between the two I could almost build one. Found a set of Bob Glidden Mustang II Pro Stock decals on Ebay. Got a set of the missing taillights from a forum member (thanks to Duane Garner) so decided to give it a go. Made a few changes in the kit, replaced the kit engine heads and valve covers with a more accurate set, added a resin Lenco trans, scratch built the shifter (round headed straight pins from the wife's sewing stash), reversed the oil pan to move the engine back 6 scale inches, now also had to move the air scoop back in the hood and into the body, then had to move the firewall back against the interior box front. Found a set of proper wheels but all were front ones, so I had to scratch build a rear set using two front ones cut off and added a set of wider rims. Rear spoilers were cut from the kit one and a parachute is from the parts box. Paint is Testors rattlecan Classic White over silver primer. The decals were a chore, they were very thick and did not want to lay down over curves, took a lot of Future Acrylic gloss to settle them down. Comments welcomed.

PM sent.

Have these from a Revell 1/25 VW kit. Their yours if want them.

Under the search option: I think "all of my search term words" should be first before "any of my search term words". Right now, you may get 1,000 results before you narrow it down to what you are looking for.

Good start. I built a version with a removable top.

And they (Pro Modeler kits) had two engines, 426 Hemi and 440 Magnum.

The instruction sheet shown on Scalemates for the Revell Pro Modeler 1969 Charger Daytona 2 in 1 released in 2018, has stock parts and some NASCAR parts although the roll cage is sparce. The other non Pro Modeler kits have only stock parts.

AMT Double Dragster kit.

Outstanding. Did a similar project years ago from accumulated parts. Original box.

Ah, the "Shelf of Doom". Projects that are started, some almost completed, and then put back in the box to wait their turn again. I seem to do the chassis, engine, wheels and tires, the interior and then stop when it's time for painting and decals. I have this phobia about masking and painting more than one color. Some have been waiting for decades.

Been waiting for the Scorpion Drag Coupe. Butchered Astro 1 body on a Piranha rear engine chassis. Must have. Here's what one member of the forum (Scott Colmer) did years ago.

Thanks, Carl.

Great build. I think all of us have modeling skills that have definitely improved in 53 years. Really like the stance.

Always wanted to do this to an Aluma Coupe kit. Had some fiddly issues with the build. Paint is Testors rattle can Daytona Yellow Lacquer. Comments welcome.

Great work, Bill. Bud's last name is Faubel not Faubles. Your decal on the door is correct.

There are parts to make one in the AMT 1970 Coronet Super Bee Pro Street kit.

Always felt the AMT flip nose body looked somewhat '40 Fordish, and the nose was too large. Have built many of each but favor the later Revell issue.

Outstanding scratch work. I have a Cox Cheetah slot car kit new in box. Wish I had the nerve to attempt something like this Have been following, looking forward to the under-glass completion.

Thanks, Carl.

After watching what transpired in Iran. I pulled out my half built 1/200th B2 bomber and my almost completed 1/72nd Horten HO229 German Flying Wing from my shelf of doom. Finished the Horten HO229 first. Will now turn to painting the B2. Hard to believe the Horten was ready to fly in 1945. Comments welcome.

Why, with todays technology has no one come out with a 1/25th 3D printed Mantaray show car body? I have sourced an engine (IMC Weber carbed 289 Ford), a chassis, suspension, wheels and tires from an AMT Indy Watson Roadster. Just waiting for a Mantaray body.

Why, with todays technology has someone not come out with a 1/25th 3D printed Mantaray body? I have sourced an engine (IMC weber carbed 289 Ford), frame, suspension, wheels and tires from the Amt Indy Watson roadster from the parts box. Just waiting.