Jon Haigwood

Your right on of my favorites . The fifth wheel seemed to be the only part missing so I could use one. I do have the decals if anyone needs them

Jacob one of m Grandsons age 12 has ADD and a form of Autism. He recently has shown interest in building a model. We went on a camping trip so I brought along this kit my wife found at the Goodwill. I pre-painted the body and fender orange and the frame silver and dull coated the tires. I used a set of DOH decals from one of my parts kits. Then I gave it a coat of Future to give it some protection from fumbling hands. We had no instructions so we had to do some guessing. Yes it is a Snap-tite kit and we had to do some use some glue. We built it on a picnic bench . It may not be the best built truck but my Grandson had some time to concentrate on something that wasn't electronic for awhile and I got spend some Grampa time with him.

Very nice, but this Old Guy is somewhat confused: A car originally a Mopar built as a GM with a Ford sign in the background. Must be American diversity. (although I will be building a Chevy Semi truck sporting the Generals colors this coming weekend with my Grandson)

Thanks for all the info and tips. I repainted then let it dry fully. I didn't burnish it until after I cut the edges and removed the excess. Then I burnished it down with this fine tipped painting pencil I found at Michels (pack of 5 for $5). I know it is not perfect but it's a lot better than my previous results. Now I have to dull coat it and figure out how to do the door and window handles. Thanks Again You folks are the Greatest Jon

I read on another forum that there seems some confusion with cars classed as Gassers They were saying that some of them were/are actually A/FX class cars. I am still trying to find out what determines which class is which I plan building a 64 Plymouth with a straight axle, blown Hemi and wide slicks and was trying to figure out what class it would be.

I have been using some rattle can Rust-oleum semi-gloss on my interior. It has worked well over the red paint but seemed to come out a bit on the heavy side so I decided to decant it and shoot thru my air brush. The problem is that unless I put it on extremely heavy it gets a white frosty finish. Seems like maybe it may be drying before it get to the surface. I have tried different air pressures but the results are the same. Rust-oleum says it is an enamel and to use mineral spirits to clean up but it seemed clog the air brush and when I used alcohol it did much better Any suggestions Thanks Jon

You might look at the the Super charged V6 in the 90-92 T Bird Super Coupe kits they are a bit newer but you could change them up a bit. I did this one for a 32 I am doing. Changed the intake and removed the inter cooler.

All good info Folks. I knew I asked at the right place Thanks

That could be a big part of it also. I used a regular fuzzy type Q tip that probably burnished outside of the area I wanted to foil.

I think my my problem is tat the paint is not as dried as I thought it was and the foil is sticking to well to it. The paint didn't lift it was damaged by me trying to remove the sticky foil. I have another set of panels and will start fro scratch .

This is Dupicolor acrylic lacquer. Decanted and applied with an airbrush seems to have a fast drying time.

Yeah I tried that but the ripped and left no edge to pull on

no

MY EYES, MY EYES how can I ever un-see this

I tried that the toothpick and even the edgeof my fingernail chipped the paint

A crime against humanity I tell you

I was thinking I might try this. I have some narrow fine line tape that would work for that.

I think the problem was that I was damaging the paint trying to remove the foil more than the foil lifting the paint. The foil stuck so well I have a hard time removing it.

First time using BMF. I am working on a door panel for a 64 Belvadere and I want to put BMF along a section. The problem I am having is that when trying to remove the foil from the area that I don't want it to be it sticks so well that it damages the paint. The door panels were primed then painted with red. On my second attempt I put down a light coat of Future to give it a protective layer but that did not help. I thought about putting a light coat of wax along the outside edges so the foil would not stick but I plan putting a coat of semi-gloss clear to cut the shine put I am not sure how the clear would work on the waxed areas. If I put the semi-gloss down first I think the area I wax will then be to shiny for the look I want. I did try doing some touch up with a small brush but the paint did not work well with the Future. Looking for helpful advice from experienced BMFers

I am using a V6 from a 90 T Bird Super coupe in a 32

Ok 3 days. Must be normal for them. Most folks I deal with ship next business day

Not sure if it is Japan or not. The we site doesn't seem to say. If it is that could be the reason for the slow start. I have ordered stuff from China and it can take from a week to months to get (sometimes never). Todays update status says it was received by USPS and gave a tracking number.

I ordered some parts from Hobby Link on 6/3 and according to my email confirmation hey won't get shipped until 6/8. Is it normal for them to sit on an order for 5 days before they ship ?

My first thought was they would be the same also until I checked them. As it turns out the Petty kit (one of those "kit-in-a-bag" you get at swap meets) is missing the spindles. I do have another Petty kit but I have plans for that one. So I am forced to scratch build some.

Probably may just scratch build some Just thought I would check and see if there may be a better way.