Jon Haigwood

On the Petty the stub axles are in the center spindles. In the Color Me Gone and the Ramchargers Dodge kits the stub axles are offset and can be switched. I could always rob them out of a Dodge kit but I am trying to avoid that so I will have something to use when I build them.

I am working on a Lindberg Petty 64 Plymouth. I would like to raise the front about 2" or 3". What is the best way to raise the front end ? The only way I can see is to scratch build some front spindles. Thanks

Yes indeed list are boring. Since I have been liking cars since the 50's I will keep it down to the top three

I would have to say Scallops , they have more of a traditional look.

Thanks to gardnerpag44 for getting me what I needed I am OK for now. I will still be dabbling in resin casting exhaust systems and making aluminum mufflers. Thanks for all the replies

Thanks for the replies. Since most of the damaged surfaces were flat I was able to sand and re-primer then re-paint that side. All is well. Now that I know the cause I can avoid it in the future

deja vu ?

better?

Maybe it's a UK version

A few similarity's to the possible 2017 Chevelle I am not to keen on the Chevy Retro cars but I guess it is an alternative to all the other new cars that the front strangely reminds me of Darth Vader.

Looks like there maybe another retro in the works. Not sure how I feel about this one.

I never had the vents open on my 65

How is that much different than the kits to replace your louvers with windows ? These have probably been available since the Shelby cars came out

The paint was cheap of name brand and I think Kit Basher maybe right with the first coats not being fully dried I normally paint with acrylics and heat cure between coats.

this

I rattle can sprayed some enamel orange paint on a body yesterday (about 3 coats). Today I noticed that one side needed another coat and sprayed another coat of the same paint on the side. Just checked it and it crazed What would make the same paint craze applying another coat ?

Can't forget that. I have a T shirt I bought at Hot August Nights in Reno in 1998 (year of the riots) with that on it and Ed signed it for me.

The three in the picture was using aluminium tubing gently tapped down until I achieved a desired shape. Went thru 3 different sizes of tube until I achieved the desired size and shape. Top two I used smaller tubing for the end pipes and filled them with a super glue baby powder mix and filed/sanded to get a flat end. These did not have the ribbed end I wanted so on the bottom one I used pieces of an old credit card.The only styrene I had was .040" thick. I think if I can get something about .020" it should look better.

The mufflers are the parts I am most trying to duplicate. I have had some success with making glass packs but the factory mufflers have been a bit more challenging. As for pipes I have used aluminum tubing some I like the look of the end of the tail pipe being open and more realistic. I have considered solder but have not tried it yet. Evergreen rod has also been considered. I like the idea of Plaststruct tubing with brass rod inside Do heat it some or bend it cold ?

May but most likely not. I was only 6 at the time.

I can remember my Dad having these on the lower front fender of his Plymouth around 1956

Received and Returned Thank You Jon

Indeed The Flying Eyeball is as iconic to Hot Rodding as the "8 Ball Girl"

That happened to me, I just let it site under a light and it and it cleared up.

I have a few 64 Mopars that need some exhaust systems made up. I have been trying to make some mufflers up from aluminum tubing and have had fair success at best. My next thought that maybe I could duplicate the muffler set from the Revell 68 Charger. If I can duplicate it from the front to the back of the mufflers I can make it work on most my current builds. My question is what would would be the best way to make molds of the front pipes to the back of the mufflers resin casting ? Keep in mind I have never tried any resin casting.