StevenGuthmiller

Thanks a bunch guys! I'm well underway with the assembly of the interior. I'll post pics when it's finished. Actually, the battery is exactly as it came from the AMT '62 Catalina kit. Terminals, hold down and cables were all molded onto the part. All that I did was shave off the cable detail, drill holes in the terminals, add my own cables and paint it. Steve

That's beautiful David! The color is perfect for it!! Steve

I agree. An after market wheel, is an after market wheel. If you want to put a 22" wheel on a '55 Chevy, you had better plan on making modifications. Even using a wheel from a different kit is likely going to require some mods. It's all just part of what we do. Steve

That's the problem. The last post in that thread was in March of 2019. Nearly a year and a half ago. Not really relevant any more. Steve

Thanks guys! I appreciate your interest. It took a little piddling around, but other than what I've missed, I believe that the chassis and engine bay are basically finished. (tail pipes to be added later) Got the engine in place, added battery and cables, steering box, (with hydraulic lines) master cylinder and heater hoses. That should pretty much fill up the engine compartment. Also got the radiator and bulkhead in place. On to the interior. Steve

Not to mention an expensive one! If I recall correctly, the entire ball of wax was offered in the 7 figure range. Steve

Well, The most relevant question, (as always with these new innovations) will be, how durable will the finish be after curing. If it's not any tougher than Alclad, or at least a little more durable than Molotow, (which won't take much) it's not going to be worth the $37.00. I'll let someone with more disposable income be the guinea pig and report back to us. Steve

They don't get any better than that Paul!! Steve

Thank you Nigel! The assembly of this project has finally commenced. There is still a long way to go, but progress is being made and the chassis is nearly complete. As you can imagine, it takes a considerable amount of tweaking and fitting to get all of these mismatched parts to come together as envisioned even with the substantial preliminary engineering that took place, but I believe that it's beginning to fall into place. The next step will be to install the engine and then begin adding the rest of the engine bay details, followed by finally reassembling the interior. On it goes! Steve

You're right. Any old discussions would have focused on the time period around when Modelhaus was closing it's doors. A search won't help you at all. I'm sure that if there was any new developments and a member of the forum had access to that information, they would have posted in a new thread. No new news on the Modelhaus front that I am aware of. Steve

The Revell-o-gram '56 has them. The old Revell '56 sedan had them as well. Steve

The name of the company is Pioneer Plastics. The link. www.piomeerplastics.com/product-category/display-case/diecast-display-case/ The item pictured above is, "1/24th Scale Diecast Case-094C". Most small, midsize and large 1/25th models will fit, with the exception of some really large cars, like some Caddys, Lincolns or Imperials. The only one that I have to date that wouldn't fit is an SMP 1960 Chrysler Imperial. Steve

Just received a fresh case of clear model cases for 1/25, 1/24 scale model cars. In case anyone is interested, you can get a case, (12) of these for just under $85.00 with free shipping if you order directly from the manufacturer. That comes to a few pennies over $7.00 each. Much cheaper than the usual $12.00 to $15.00 each that one usually pays for a case this size, not to mention any added shipping costs. Steve

Personally, I would give it several light coats of a good automotive primer, but I have quite a few years worth of experience working with automotive lacquers. If you're not 100% familiar with the use of automotive lacquers, you might want to investigate Tamiya primers and paints. I don't use them myself, but they are a safe alternative. You should be able to find a relatively close match to the color that you are looking for through Tamiya if you're not looking for complete accuracy. Steve

That's a pretty "extreme" response to a pretty benign statement, don't you think Dale? All that I was saying is that I don't take the time to actually physically warm the solution. I didn't say that it was not a completely viable concept or that it was not a good idea, I just personally don't go to that level. That's what I meant by not going to a certain extreme. It's a pretty common phrase. You might want to relax a bit. Steve

Welcome back Kendall! As far as painting of a kit this size goes, I would say that a lot depends on the color that you will be painting it. If you will be using a readily available color that can be found in a spray can, I would paint it with a rattle can. It would likely be much easier due to the heavier coverage afforded with a spray can. My I suggest a color from Duplicolor, available in their touch up paint line. The stuff will spray like a dream with their fan spray nozzle on a model this large. Just be certain that you get advice on how to deal with automotive lacquers used in conjunction with styrene plastic before you begin. You wouldn't want to ruin an expensive body like this. Steve

I'll agree with that. Although I don't go to the extreme of actually warming the solution, it is better to keep it in a warm area for sure. Steve

I keep a container full of Super Clean in case I need to strip something. Just one of those cheap, store brand "Glad" type containers. I've had the same container full of SC for probably at least a couple of years now. So far, no issues..........fingers crossed! Steve

Well, that might all be valid, but in any case, if you order paint from MCW or Scale Finishes and you live in the continental US, you will receive it, whether it's flammable or not. I would assume that Tamiya lacquers are also flammable, (as well as under pressure) which I would guess would be even worse to ship. Either way, the post office would be delivering my paint. I have no options, and I'll just let the distributor and the postal service hash out the semantics. I've been ordering MCW paints for decades. Apparently, they have a system that works for all involved. Steve

I agree wholeheartedly! Super Clean is a far superior product to the other "degreasing cleaners" such as Purple Power or Simple Green. That said, there are some paints that are resistant to many of the strippers that we use for modeling. If Super Clean doesn't do the trick, you might give isopropyl alcohol a try, or I have heard that some have good luck with products such as Testors "ELO", if it's still available. Steve

I have been making pretty considerable progress on this project over the past week, but it's been mostly chassis work and not particularly exciting. I did however finish up the radiator with it's scratch made cap that some of you might like to see, and I added springs to the hood hinges. Hopefully there will be more substantial progress to share in the near future. Steve

All valid points I suppose. It's just a question that starts rolling around in my head whenever I hear people talking abut decanting paint. I do have to point out that you apparently have made a mistake in your quantity calculation. 500 ml is equivalent to a little over 16 fluid ounces. I'm pretty sure that Tamiya doesn't make 16 ounce spray cans. I also want to address your concern about flammability of lacquers sent in the mail. I order from Scale Finishes, MCW and Alclad quite frequently and have yet to have a package burst into flames. I would worry more about breakage or spillage than flammability, and I have yet to have any of those issues in many years of ordering lacquers through the mail. The vendors of these products are all very conscientious and package their wares extremely well. In my case, as I'm sure is the case with many others, Tamiya products are a mail order experience as well. In over 30 years of living in two different cities, I have never seen a can of Tamiya paint in either a hobby shop, or any other store, with the exception of the occasional can of primer. Unless I want to use Testors, (which I don't care to) ordering by mail is a must. Steve

Makes perfect sense Bill. I can absolutely understand wanting to use up what you have. I guess my question wasn't necessarily directed only at you, but just as a general inquiry for anyone who does a lot of decanting. I've never quite understood why someone would buy a can of spray paint just so that they could drain it out to spray it through another device when there are clearly so many much easier alternatives. It just seems like such a messy and unnecessary undertaking considering all of the options available. Maybe it's just me. Steve

I can guarantee you without any ambiguity whatsoever, that if a device such as this "EVER" existed, it would have reached the market at some point. I think it's pretty safe to say that it's a unicorn Steve

I heard almost the exact same story from an uncle who worked as a plant manager for decades at the Ford plant in Minneapolis Minnesota. About the only difference was that it was apparently a Ford pickup and it supposedly took place at some point in the '70s. According to the tale, the truck was supposedly getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 70 MPG. It's an entertaining story, and when I was 15 years old, it seemed feasible, but as I've become older and wiser, I've come to realize that it was likely just that.........an entertaining story. Steve