StevenGuthmiller

Personally, I would give it several light coats of a good automotive primer, but I have quite a few years worth of experience working with automotive lacquers. If you're not 100% familiar with the use of automotive lacquers, you might want to investigate Tamiya primers and paints. I don't use them myself, but they are a safe alternative. You should be able to find a relatively close match to the color that you are looking for through Tamiya if you're not looking for complete accuracy. Steve

That's a pretty "extreme" response to a pretty benign statement, don't you think Dale? All that I was saying is that I don't take the time to actually physically warm the solution. I didn't say that it was not a completely viable concept or that it was not a good idea, I just personally don't go to that level. That's what I meant by not going to a certain extreme. It's a pretty common phrase. You might want to relax a bit. Steve

Welcome back Kendall! As far as painting of a kit this size goes, I would say that a lot depends on the color that you will be painting it. If you will be using a readily available color that can be found in a spray can, I would paint it with a rattle can. It would likely be much easier due to the heavier coverage afforded with a spray can. My I suggest a color from Duplicolor, available in their touch up paint line. The stuff will spray like a dream with their fan spray nozzle on a model this large. Just be certain that you get advice on how to deal with automotive lacquers used in conjunction with styrene plastic before you begin. You wouldn't want to ruin an expensive body like this. Steve

I'll agree with that. Although I don't go to the extreme of actually warming the solution, it is better to keep it in a warm area for sure. Steve

I keep a container full of Super Clean in case I need to strip something. Just one of those cheap, store brand "Glad" type containers. I've had the same container full of SC for probably at least a couple of years now. So far, no issues..........fingers crossed! Steve

Well, that might all be valid, but in any case, if you order paint from MCW or Scale Finishes and you live in the continental US, you will receive it, whether it's flammable or not. I would assume that Tamiya lacquers are also flammable, (as well as under pressure) which I would guess would be even worse to ship. Either way, the post office would be delivering my paint. I have no options, and I'll just let the distributor and the postal service hash out the semantics. I've been ordering MCW paints for decades. Apparently, they have a system that works for all involved. Steve

I agree wholeheartedly! Super Clean is a far superior product to the other "degreasing cleaners" such as Purple Power or Simple Green. That said, there are some paints that are resistant to many of the strippers that we use for modeling. If Super Clean doesn't do the trick, you might give isopropyl alcohol a try, or I have heard that some have good luck with products such as Testors "ELO", if it's still available. Steve

I have been making pretty considerable progress on this project over the past week, but it's been mostly chassis work and not particularly exciting. I did however finish up the radiator with it's scratch made cap that some of you might like to see, and I added springs to the hood hinges. Hopefully there will be more substantial progress to share in the near future. Steve

All valid points I suppose. It's just a question that starts rolling around in my head whenever I hear people talking abut decanting paint. I do have to point out that you apparently have made a mistake in your quantity calculation. 500 ml is equivalent to a little over 16 fluid ounces. I'm pretty sure that Tamiya doesn't make 16 ounce spray cans. I also want to address your concern about flammability of lacquers sent in the mail. I order from Scale Finishes, MCW and Alclad quite frequently and have yet to have a package burst into flames. I would worry more about breakage or spillage than flammability, and I have yet to have any of those issues in many years of ordering lacquers through the mail. The vendors of these products are all very conscientious and package their wares extremely well. In my case, as I'm sure is the case with many others, Tamiya products are a mail order experience as well. In over 30 years of living in two different cities, I have never seen a can of Tamiya paint in either a hobby shop, or any other store, with the exception of the occasional can of primer. Unless I want to use Testors, (which I don't care to) ordering by mail is a must. Steve

Makes perfect sense Bill. I can absolutely understand wanting to use up what you have. I guess my question wasn't necessarily directed only at you, but just as a general inquiry for anyone who does a lot of decanting. I've never quite understood why someone would buy a can of spray paint just so that they could drain it out to spray it through another device when there are clearly so many much easier alternatives. It just seems like such a messy and unnecessary undertaking considering all of the options available. Maybe it's just me. Steve

I can guarantee you without any ambiguity whatsoever, that if a device such as this "EVER" existed, it would have reached the market at some point. I think it's pretty safe to say that it's a unicorn Steve

I heard almost the exact same story from an uncle who worked as a plant manager for decades at the Ford plant in Minneapolis Minnesota. About the only difference was that it was apparently a Ford pickup and it supposedly took place at some point in the '70s. According to the tale, the truck was supposedly getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 70 MPG. It's an entertaining story, and when I was 15 years old, it seemed feasible, but as I've become older and wiser, I've come to realize that it was likely just that.........an entertaining story. Steve

Yeah, right? The only way you're getting 200 miles a gallon out of a Toronado is to throw it on a trailer! Steve

I don't want to make too many waves here, but I have a hard time understanding why people would want to spend so much money, time and effort decanting paints that cost just as much as aftermarket, ready to spray air brush paints. Outfits like Scale Finishes, MCW, and others carry a variety of colors that companies like Testors or Tamiya couldn't match or imagine in their wildest wet dream, and all you have to do is screw on a jar, or dump it in the cup and you're in business. I'm not trying to make trouble, I'm just genuinely curious and bewildered. Steve

Yes sir. Not exactly the best paint or spray nozzle that you will ever work with, but it will give you a super shiny finish. Steve

I just checked a sheet of oil filter decals that I have. Tons of Fram, Motorcraft, etc, but sadly, no AC. Steve

The kits that I posted are not from my stash. I don't believe that I even have a '32 or '34 Ford among my stuff. These were pics taken directly from ebay. They are available and not expensive at all, with the possible exception of the older "street rods" '32. The '32 Vicky and '34 sedan I see routinely in the $20.00-$25.00 range. Steve

I built one of the Moebius '55 Chryslers some time ago and I agree completely. An absolutely fabulously engineered kit!! Everything fit together like a fine watch! Steve

On a side note, I just wanted to add that the cheap Rustoleum glass black paint that you can find in most home improvement stores, among other places, makes an excellent base for Alclad chrome paint. It dries so absolutely glossy that your chrome will turn out beautifully! My most recent evidence of this is this radiator cap. Steve

It's impossible to have too many options when it comes to the tools and materials that are available to us. Steve

That's really the only reason that I became engaged in this discussion. I just want people to be aware that there is always more than one way to skin a cat. As with every other aspect of this hobby, there are as many techniques used for a particular task as there are hobbyists. You should experiment for yourself and not take any suggestion as gospel. I believe that the only avenue to becoming a skilled modeler is to develop those skills yourself. Granted, we "all" will learn from others, but unless there is curiosity in your approach, it will be difficult to make advancements. Steve

Never saw such a collection of misfits and losers in my entire life! I don't believe that there was a single individual featured in that entire series that had any redeeming qualities whatsoever. Probably why it was such a success. It was a complete train wreck from start to finish. Steve

I don't know if the Revell '68 Charger meets the aforementioned criteria of a "modern kit", but here is my little experiment. Four light coats of Duplicolor "primer sealer" (which is what I normally use) shot over less than a half of an hour's time. Almost no time to gas out, nothing underneath but bare plastic, no sanding between coats and a finish that a baby's butt would envy. No crazing or any other issues of any kind. I didn't even clean it before spraying. Normally, I would shoot a coat of Testors as a base before the Duplicolor, but for illustrative purposes, I sprayed this bare. Works for me. And for half the price per once as a can of Tamiya, I'll take it. Steve

If Duplicolor goes away, I can switch to Tamiya. What will your strategy be in the event that the fortunes are reversed? Steve

By the way, absolutely no special skills were required whatsoever with painting those chassis parts. just point and shoot, same as you would with any other "crappy hardware store paint in a can". Steve