StevenGuthmiller

I agree Tom. I usually fiddle around with fabricating a part that has to be replicated many times until I get it the way I want it, and then I start making the individual components and start the assembly line. My problem is that sometimes during the fabricating stage, I can't stop myself from changing the part numerous times before I'm satisfied, making the part more difficult to mass produce. I've already added another small detail to the base and knob by drilling a small shallow hole in each to add some more depth to the part. Somebody stop me! Steve

Thanks guys! The base of the crank and knob are just thin slices of styrene rod. The center "arm" are just two pieces of thinly stretched sprue cemented to the base. The knob is just positioned at this time, but cementing it will improve the strength of the part. I'm going to continue to refine these ideas and decide which route to take. Steve

Or, I could do them this way. More fragile to work with, but actually easier to make and closer to how they should look. What do you guys think? I'll begin to "mass produce" them once I make a decision. Steve

Thanks so much guys! I was getting ready to start casting some window cranks for the interior, but I was curious as to how difficult it would be to scratch build some. Surprisingly, they're quite easy to fabricate using some styrene rod and strips. They won't be exactly the same as the '64 Pontiac cranks would be, but they should give a crisper look than the cast cranks that I usually make. I might use a slightly smaller rod for the knobs. I'll keep you posted on how they go. Steve

Agreed. It brings to mind a comment that I hear often about interior work on a hard top. "Too bad it's not a convertible so that everyone can see the detail that you added". I understand the sentiment, but I don't do it because I "need" everyone else to see every detail that I've added. I do it because I enjoy detailing interiors, and I know what I've done. I figure that anyone viewing one of my models that is interested, and knows anything about the particular model I've built, will ask, and I can fill them in then. If their not truly curious, I'm not particularly interested in trying to educate them anyway. Steve

I was thinking the same thing. The bronzes go well together! Steve

I don't believe there is any difference externally. I used the 390 from the AMT '67 Mercury Cyclone kit to represent a 427 R-code in my '67 Galaxie. If I recall correctly from that project, they are basically the same. Steve

Here you go. Steve

Congrats Jay! I have to confess, I don't remember seeing this one. Nice work! Steve

I agree wholeheartedly with all of this. I have, and still do build simplified, curbside builds when it's warranted in my view, but I do often look back on some of my simpler models and think that I would like to do them over again. When I look at my more highly detailed projects, I'm proud of them and wouldn't change a thing. I would rather have a dozen of the latter, than 100 of the former. But, with that said, I find myself over the years wandering back and forth with how much detail I choose to add to a project, and that's still okay with me. I greatly prefer to detail them, but they don't all have to be that way. Steve

I was honored to have been able to participate in the first ever Desert Scale Classic virtual model car show and contest. Unlike most of the shows scheduled during this COVID crisis that were either canceled or postponed, the guys in Arizona decided that the show must go on. I decided that it was a perfect opportunity to participate in at least one show this year, and I didn't even have to get out of my Lazy Boy to do so. I was extremely honored and very happy to have been awarded a 1st place in the factory stock category, as well as a "Master Award" for best interior for my '68 Olds 442 W-30. I also received a 2nd place plaque in the Street Machine category for my '65 Plymouth Fury. The plaques arrived today. Thank you to the judges at the DSC V16!! Steve

Thanks everyone!! As Dirty Harry so eloquently stated, "A man's got to know his limitations". They are Best Model Car Parts decals. Lucky for all of us, Michael offers some great gauge decals for a few vintage annual kits. Steve

Be sure to add the 1961-1963 Thunderbird annuals to your request in the wanted section. There were a ton of these models and promos produced during that 3 year period. There's a good possibility someone might have a spare that they can offer. Steve

Just finished up a dash board using Best Model Car Parts gauge set for the '64 Pontiac Grand Prix. Terrific stuff! Steve

Proudly, I've finished the dashboard and steering wheel for my '64 Pontiac Grand Prix project. Steve

Well, the dash and steering wheel are complete. I'm happy with them. Here is a re-cap of the modifications made. Dash: Defroster vents added. Original gauge pods, dash knobs, steering column collar and ignition switch removed and replaced. Trim around wood area, parking brake release and Best Model Car Parts gauge decals added. Steering wheel: Center cap and badge, spoke pieces and horn ring all scratch built. Steve

I'll remember that. Maybe I can goad him into producing a few more sets for some of the old annuals that I need gauges for that he doesn't already offer. Steve

Best part is that he offers gauge sets for some long gone annuals that never came with gauge decals from the beginning. I have a set from Best Model Car Parts that were made for the AMT '64 Pontiac Grand Prix that I will be using on my most recent project. Steve

It is. Very simple and quick to use with no drying or curing time. Steve

I didn't say that I knew anything about the '63 T-Bird glass, and I don't. I was merely providing an option if in fact it didn't have compound curves. And as we all know, parts provided in model kits do not necessarily mimic the real thing. The only way to know for certain whether it will work or not, is to try it. Steve

You do some exceptionally nice work Gary!! Very cleanly done with top notch paint work! Excellent!! Steve

A little more progress on the dash, console and steering wheel parts. The dash still needs knobs, gauge pods, gauge faces and a few other small items to be finished. The foiling is done and the shifter and tach is all that is required to finish the console. The addition to the steering wheel center cap might get a few laughs from some of you, but it was something that just popped into my head, and literally took 10 minutes to complete, so I thought, "what the hell". The red in the Pontiac "crest" is not correct for a '64 Grand Prix, but being as the factory faint crest and "Grand Prix" lettering on a clear lens would be imperceptible and impossible to do, I decided to dress it up a bit. I started by cutting a small V shaped piece of styrene strip, filed a small notch at the top and then painted it red and added a small dab of silver for the "star". Then I filled the bottom of the hollow with Laser Bond, positioned the crest and hit it with the UV light. Then I filled the hollow completely with Laser Bond to give the impression that the crest is floating in the center of the button. Not something that will be easily seen, but it was fun to try and took no time at all. Steve

Glass yellowing on these old annuals is actually pretty common. I've acquired several built models over the years with yellowed glass. If the Hydrogen peroxide trick doesn't work, You could try the tinting avenue. Yellow and blue makes green, so you could try a very pale blue tint in the hopes that it will result in a pale green tint, which is what most cars of this vintage had in the first place. Another option is to replace the glass with thin clear sheet plastic. It will give you a clearer and more in scale appearance than the thick original glass provides anyway. As long as the windshield doesn't have any compound curves in it, (which I don't believe the '63 T-Bird should have) it won't be difficult to do. Steve

Wow! That's nice! Great paint work! Steve

I use the Ceramcoat stuff as well, but just about exclusively for washes for things like grilles and panel lines. The stuff is not very durable, so I don't use it for much else. Steve