StevenGuthmiller

I use JB Weld "Clear Weld". Steve

Looking terrific Geoff!! Steve

There's no doubt that model cement will create a good bond. That's not in question. The question is whether the pros of using it out way the cons. If you like it, and it's what you're used to, knock yourself out. My only argument is that there are other products on the market today that are just as good, or better than the old tube cement. Granted, models are not designed to be taken apart, but inevitably, many will be, especially as the hobby declines and companies are producing fewer and fewer kits I have basically made a career out of restoring old vintage kits, and I have to tell you, if you have never seen horrible "glue rash", "sink marks" or just generally parts that no longer resemble what they originally looked like, you have not seen this side of the hobby. I have kits in my possession with warped body panels and roofs from heavy glue use, body trim that is no longer repairable, and glass that can never be removed without shredding the body. These are all very common issues with old built kits, all attributable to model cement. Glues such as 2 part epoxy will give you a very strong bond that in the end might also be difficult to remove should the necessity arise, but at least it will not melt the plastic. I too have kits that are decades old in my collection that have been moved around often, most assembled using CA glue, and they are still in one piece. The particular glue that you use is not the silver bullet to longevity. How the model is handled will determine that, no matter what glue you use. Steve

When someone proves to me that there is a "durable" alternative to BMF that is as easy to work with and looks this good, then I'll convert. In my nearly 50 years of building, there has yet to be anything else that even comes close. It still baffles me why people continue to search for alternatives for a material that works as well as this tried and true product. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Steve

2 part epoxy will give you just as strong of a bond, (or better) than plastic cement without the hassle of scraping parts. Steve

All you need to do is look at a large portion of old built kits built years ago with tube cement. I can't count how many times I've encountered parts and bodies that have been completely destroyed due to the use of solvent cements. If you have ever rebuilt a vintage kit that has had glass glued in with tube cement too heavily, you'll understand exactly why I don't use it. Steve

I never remove paint or chrome from areas of parts to be cemented together. If you're using the old model "tube" cement, or a liquid cement to join parts during final assemblies, I suppose you should, but there are a lot of better glues available today that don't require it. If your parts are properly primed and painted to ensure good paint adhesion, there's really no reason to remove paint from joints if you're using a glue such as CA or epoxy for assembly. I haven't used tube cement for models since the 80s. Never liked the stuff anyway. It takes too long to set, parts slide around, the stuff gets on everything except where it's intended, and I never liked the idea of a glue that bonds by melting the plastic, especially on exposed parts. I paint every part independently, (except parts where seam filling is required) and glue everything together as needed with various types of glues that don't dissolve plastic. Steve

And as usual, as with many of these new kits, they muffed it. Just another example in my opinion, of how the old annuals, with all of their faults, are still usually better proportioned than most of the new kits. This is probably an instance of where using the AMT body, with the Revell guts and tail lights, would yield the best results. I've heard people hacking on the AMT kit for years. From the look of it, it's probably no worse than this one. Steve

It's tough Carl, but sometimes I have to remember what I heard once many years ago. "Life is terminal. None of us get out of it alive." I know there is nothing that can be said to ease the pain of losing a loved one, especially when you have to watch it unfold, but I just have to tell myself that death is just another part of life, and something that we all must go through, very likely numerous times throughout our lives. I lost my father at the age of 57 back in 1995. He was diabetic and was dying of kidney failure at home in a bed placed in the dining room of his home while we all stood by and waited for the inevitable to happen. I was there when the end came with my mother, my wife and 2 very young children. It was not an easy thing to endure, but I am glad that I was there. His legacy is that I find myself thinking about him very often, so in my mind, he lives on. Hang in there my friend. What will be, will be. Unfortunately, there is nothing else that we can do. Steve

No. Picked them up on ebay. Steve

Another embossing powder set. Steve

Wow Ludwig!! That's beautiful! I really thought the first photo was a shot of a real car! Steve

I concur. If they stopped making BMF, there's a good chance that I would stop building. Nothing else compares. Steve

I hear ya! Been a long time since I've been in a car with vent windows at all. Steve

Thanks so much Steve and Jim! I appreciate it! Now that I've returned from a week of vacation, I'm anxious to get back to this project! So far, I've managed to find enough time at the bench to finish up the console and the door panels. (except for the door lock buttons to be added at the time of final assembly) Steve

Nice work Roger!! Super clean job! Steve

They have the bronze paint as well. www.oldparts.com/product/engine-paint-all-400-engines/ Steve

According to what I have been able to find, gold was the color for Olds small blocks from 1964 to 1976. (not sure if all of them were this color) Bronze, (or copper) was applied to 400 engines from 1965-1969. Blue for the 1970-'76 455. Most 425's as well as some early 455's were red. Here is a link that I found. www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/products.asp?dept=345 Steve

Welcome Kyle! As far as I know, there is no expiration date on model kits! As a matter of fact, the vast majority of my builds are kits 50 plus years old. Steve

Welcome Brian! If it works for you, it doesn't matter at all what is common practice. Steve

The exact color that I used was MCW "Turbine Bronze". I believe the Testors "Dark Bronze" is probably a darker color. A good alternative might be Testors "One Coat" "Fiery Orange" lacquer. If the OP is looking for a true representation of Oldsmobile Copper engine paint, and is able to acquire it, Scale Finishes carries the color in one ounce jars of enamel air brush paint. Oldsmobile also used a gold paint from 1964-1972, in conjunction with the copper, (1965-1969) Scale Finishes carries that option as well. This is the engine done with MCW "Turbine Bronze". Steve

They look like they might work okay for long straight pieces of body trim, but how often do you get something that straight. Otherwise, it seems to me that they would likely be much more hassle than just using foil. Just my observation at this point. Steve

Hey! I like that stuff! Steve

I recently watched a Netflix movie called "1922". It's about a farmer in Nebraska who's wife recently inherited 100 acres to add to the 80 that they already had. She wants to sell and move to the city, but he wants to keep the land and farm it. Rather than move, the farmer hatches a plan to conspire with his teenage son to kill his wife in order to stay on the farm. It's a bit strange, but it keeps you guessing. The movies is an adaptation of a Stephen King short story. Steve

I have to agree. After all, a dryer sheet is supposed to be a fabric softener. If it helps, these are the ingredients of a standard Bounce dryer sheet. Dipalmethyl Hydroxyethylammoinum Methosulfate. (say that 5 times fast!) Fatty Acid Polyester Substrate Clay Fragrance Steve