StevenGuthmiller

Very nice! The color is very reminiscent of factory correct 1961 Pontiac "Dawnfire Mist". Not available on the Buicks, but it wouldn't surprise me if it could have been a special order color. Steve

If it were mine, I would get a set of Pegasus Dodge 4 bar spinners and white walls, but then again to be honest, I would do my best to find a set of close to stock wheels like Christopher's '64 El Camino suggestion. Just my opinion, but I think the black wheels in the first pic are hideous and do nothing to enhance the body style. Steve

Here are a few other sets that I scrounged up. I can tell you which kits these came from, but does anybody want to make a game of it and guess? Steve

It is a Johan set. Same set as 1961 This set is from the Johan 1961 Plymouth Fury. First $20.00 can have it! Steve

Thanks David. I appreciate that, but I now know that I would continually kick myself from now until who knows when if I didn't correct it. I'm sure that you know how it is. When you know that there is a flaw on one of your projects, no matter how small, or whether or not anyone else would notice it, it's the first thing you yourself notice every time you look at the model. I just decided that it wasn't worth that. It's already coming along pretty well. I checked the body this afternoon and there are already big blisters all over in the paint. I'll leave it for another 24 hours and see how it looks. The longer I leave it in the soup, the easier the paint will come off. Barring any major prep issues, with luck it will be ready for more color very soon, possibly by this weekend. Steve

I didn't use gray primer on this one, I used white. I think next time around, I might give it a shot of one of the Duplicolor darker reds before the Sunfire Red to darken it up a bit. Steve

Unfortunately, I never use just one coat of clear for anything. Steve

Okay guys, I appreciate all of your help. My wife reminded me, as some of you have, that if I don't strip and repaint, all that I will do for the next 2 years is piss and moan about how I should have re-painted it! So I ordered another bottle of paint from "Scale Finishes", (just to be safe) and into the pond it went! No turning back now! I guess at this point, if I have nothing else, I do have time. With any luck, the Super Clean won't destroy all of my body work. '64 Grand Prix paint job part 2 coming up. Steve

I appreciate your vote of confidence Gene! My only issue is that I would probably have been taking this build to a couple of shows within the next year or so, and as always, was hoping for perfection. But, I guess that I should know better. There really is no such thing as perfection, at least not with my projects. Steve

Thanks Keith. The foil work is the very least of my worries. I've done that so often that I can do it in my sleep! It is possible to shoot color over the clear, but by the time I shot another coat of color over the clear and then added sufficient clear coats over it again, there would be no definition of detail left whatsoever. I thought about just repainting the hood and masking off for repainting the top and trunk lid only, but decided that the likelihood of a color match would be virtually zero. And as you said, there's really no guarantee that something similar wouldn't happen on the second go around, although I am extremely confident that if I had used the PS-290 air brush, this would not have happened in the first place. As I said, I will not make the same mistake again. I should have known better! The only real options are to leave it as is, or to admit defeat and do a complete strip and repaint. Steve

Thanks Scott! I finished up the clear coats today. I have to say that I'm not entirely happy with the paint job. I used my smaller Badger airbrush for the final color coat because I wanted to open it up to get a wetter coat. My PS-290 does a marvelous job of covering a wide area, but it goes on in lighter coats. Unfortunately, I wound up with some color variation if you look squarely down at the roof, trunk lid and hood, due to the overlap of the passes. This was not evident at all in the color coats until the clear started to go on. I should have given the body another light coat with the PS-290, but I didn't see any issue until clear began to go on. I will not make this mistake again. Anyway, it's not a major problem, but you know how little things like this can bug a guy. The issue is almost completely imperceptible in full sunlight, but if you are looking for it, you can see it in unnatural light. Now the question is, leave it, or completely strip it and start over? I hate to think of starting over. These photos illustrate what I'm talking about. What do you guys think? Bad enough to do over, or good enough to leave alone? Steve

I can understand that. Just giving you a little razzing! Steve

Yes sir. But apparently Asmir agrees with me. His model. Steve

I hadn't noticed that. He's right Asmir. Steve

Thanks everyone! Spent a little time doing some interior stuff this afternoon and will hopefully get one more clear coat on the body tonight. I shoot it right out of the can. The fan spray nozzle on Duplicolor cans spray so well that I really don't believe that I could do a better job with an airbrush. Steve

What he said. Metallic colors are a different matter. Steve

Thanks Sonny! Last night I applied the first coat of Duplicolor clear. Today I foiled and detailed the G/P badges on the front quarters as well as the hood badge, followed by another coat of clear. Over the next 36 hours, I will apply another 2 or 3 coats of clear and then it should be ready to polish and foil. Steve

Very nice!! I especially like that fact that you used some "old school" chrome reverse wheels on it instead of some hokey giant chrome low rider wheels which seems to be the standard these days. Looks like a '55 Chevy instead of some "donk"! Nice work! Steve

As long as you don't have to handle them too much or clean them very often, the Alclad and maybe Molotow, (nobody really knows at this point) will probably hold up okay. But I think it's obvious to all of us that neither of them possess the durability of foil. Alclad has it's place. I use it myself. But it's paint, and not a particularly tough one, so you're always taking a risk with longevity when using it. I don't know about anyone else, but when moving a model around, which is inevitable at some point, I will generally pick them up by the sides of the roof. Personally, I would never use Molotow or Alclad on the drip rail trim of a model for that reason. I suppose it could just be me, but I really shy away from using materials on a project that I won't feel comfortable touching down the road. Just my opinion. Steve

Thank you Carl! Steve

Steve

Fair enough Jesse. I can understand all of that. Steve

Agreed. But it's really no more difficult to learn to use BMF than it is to do all of that masking. Plus the fact that paints like Alclad and especially a product like Molotow are quite fragile and prone to deterioration with time and handling. Who among us does not have, or remember models with painted trim where the trim paint was half wore off after a few years? Alclad and Molotow are very unlikely to fare much better. Steve

Thanks so much fellas! It is a technique that is definitely worth learning Joe. Give it a try sometime. Steve

He's discussing what he might have available for trades. I haven't seen anything even resembling a trade to this point. What's the issue? Steve