StevenGuthmiller

They are referring to "Low Volume, Low Pressure" touch up guns, such as this. Steve

I was making an educated guess based on the box art. I realize that models of this vintage were rarely accurately depicted on the box, but the maroon and white car on the box screams '55 Dodge and I know that there have been resin recreations of that car. I thought that this might have been where the molds for those resin copies may have come from. Steve

Thanks guys! Haven't had much time to spend in the shop lately, but I have managed to carve out a few minutes here and there to get a little work done on the interior door handles and cranks. Just one door handle and a couple of rear window cranks left to do. Also managed to throw together an automatic shift lever. Steve

I'm thinking the missing model would have been a '55 Dodge. Steve

Absolutely! Contact the seller. If it didn't look like that when yo bought it, he should want to make it right. He might try to blame the shipper, but if it would have been packaged defensively, as any rare model should be, it wouldn't have happened. Steve

Bought some more on Amazon a couple of days ago. Steve

Now comes the fun part! The vent windows!! Very nice work to this point! Steve

You're right, sorry. It is a PS-290. I was reminded again of the usefulness of the wide fan spray pattern that the 290 produces on my current project. For some reason, I decided to revert back to my old Badger brush for the first "failed" paint attempt. I wound up with a blotchy, streaky look because of the narrow pattern. Some paints seem to go on fine with the old Badger, but all too often, certain metallic paints can be very unforgiving with the overlapped areas creating un-eveness in the finish. I stripped the first attempt and did it over with the Creos brush, and it turned out perfect. While the brush does spray in a nice, wide pattern with the fan nozzle, it does not lay down the paint as heavily as some other air brushes, so be aware of that. But that can be a plus because there are less opportunities for all sorts of paint issues that can arise from the coats going on too heavily. Steve

You can kind of kill 2 birds with one stone by purchasing one of the "trigger air brushes" like the Creos PS-390 that I purchased some time back. It operates like somewhat of a hybrid between an airbrush and a spray gun. It functions much like most airbrushes, but with the ease of a trigger like a spray gun. No button to try to get used to air/paint feed, and with the "fan spray" tip, you can get a nice wide pattern for painting bodies with minimal overlap. Steve

I've never used a dehydrator to cure paint. I don't think that option was really on the radar 30 years ago when I was using enamel. I use exclusively acrylic lacquer for bodies now. No need for a dehydrator with that. Steve

Testors enamel gloss is great stuff........as long as you're using it over very dark colors. Don't even try to use it over a lighter color! It yellows almost instantly. For example, if used over a nice pale blue, it will quickly become pale green! And if you do want to use it, just make sure that you have a month or two to let it cure. Steve

For the past few years, I've been drilling them out and replacing them, but before that, I usually mixed some clear gloss with a tiny dab of white and used that, I still do the same for parking lights. You can even cast your own lenses from one of the UV setting glues like Laser Bond if you choose to replace them. I used Laser Bond for the lenses in my '63 Bonneville. Steve

It doesn't come out of the can that shiny guys. That is the result after polishing. But it's tough as nails and looks great when finished. Steve

I have used Duplicolor black with Duplicolor clear on several occasions with good results. It does require polishing, but it will give you a good shine and a durable finish. Steve

Welcome Gareth. As you will soon discover, every level of skill is represented on this board, from the beginner to the advanced. Don't be afraid to post your work. From what I can see of the models posted above, you do very nice work! Steve

Thank you so much folks! The body is now completely polished, cleaned and ready for foil. Steve

I personally would go with Ray's suggestion, (cobraman). Or I should say that I would order a jar of Matador Red from Scale Finishes, but if I had to use a rattle can, the Chevrolet engine red would be a good choice. It looks to be very close, plus you would have plenty left to paint a boat load of Chevy engines. Steve

Very well could be. The "Jalapena Red" on the chip chart doesn't appear to have any orange in it at all, but the example of the color provided by "paintref.com" is definitely orange. Almost too orange to even be called red. Steve

Maybe, but it still looks a little too "red" to me. Steve

The hue of the Chevy engine red looks very close to me, although I will agree that straight from the can it would be intense. But the '57 Nomad pictured has some patina that might tone it down. I agree completely with the Matador Red option. That is probably the color that is supposed to be represented on that car. Another good option might be 1957 Chrysler "Gauguin Red" which is also a orange-red color. They are both very attractive colors in my opinion, but unfortunately, for the OP's purposes, these colors are available from MCW or Scale Finishes in air brush form, but not readily available in a rattle can. You can obtain these colors in a spray can from one of the custom mix paint providers, but it's going to cost you $25.00 to put it in a spray can. '57 Chevy "Matador Red": 1957 Chrysler "Gauguin Red": Steve

Thank you guys!! For the time being, I've decided that I need to move on to the polishing of the body. Why do I polish? Well, in short, it's because I'm not a good enough painter to get a perfect paint job straight from the can or air brush. But these photos will illustrate that you do not need to have expert painting skills to achieve a great finish. All that is required is some elbow grease and some time. I often get asked how I get my paint jobs so uniform and shiny? There is no secret. Just a little extra effort. Before: After: Steve

Ray's suggestion looks very close. Testors Italian Red is too red, and Competition Orange is too orange. Steve

Shut the dryer off. Who needs dry clothes when there's modeling to do! Steve

I've heard of that issue as well. Don't know anything specific, but I have never used it. Masking paper and tape have always worked well for me. Steve

Yeah, that is pretty horrendous, isn't it. Hmmm, too short and doesn't fit the contours of the rear quarter panel or trunk lid. Looks great! Throw it on! Steve