StevenGuthmiller

Not really a priority Richard. I just thought if you're going to toss it anyway, it might be worth trying first. Steve

Both. They were doing throat and nasal swabs Monday and Tuesday. Yesterday they were doing blood tests for antibodies. Tomorrow, I believe it will be mostly diagnostic swabs. Steve

My wife has started her temporary job testing mostly residents and employees in long term care facilities all over the state of North Dakota, along with some mass testing. Her and her colleagues tested just over 300 residents and employees at a care facility in Mayville ND on Monday where 20 positive tests were reported. She will be testing over 1,000 residents and employees at a facility in Fargo tomorrow. Steve

I use a combination of the gray and black metallic powders that I have for the insulation. By the way, another nice feature of embossing powder is the ability to mix it to achieve certain colors to some degree. You can't mix red and yellow to get orange, but you can mix like colors to some degree to change the hue. Both of the turquoise/green examples above were achieved by mixing blue and green to varying degrees. My set has no turquoise included, so I tried mixing them and was quite happy. Steve

I tried flocking a couple of times many years ago and never had acceptable results with it. Within the past decade, I saw someone recommend embossing powder and thought that it might be worth a try. Got perfect results on the first attempt and never looked back. If you have any gray or black, I would take it off of your hands just to try the hood insulation idea. Steve

Just a couple of pictures of the results with the metallic powder that I like to use over paint & Elmer's glue. It also makes a pretty good hood insulation, although this is one of those instances where the more fibrous appearance of flocking might look better. Steve

Agreed. Either paint the surface a color close to the powder prior to applying, or paint over the powder the desired color after the powder is thoroughly dry. I have heard that people have success using paint as their adhesive. The only thing that I would ad is to be certain that the paint you use is a slow drying paint. I tried this once with a faster drying flat paint and wound up with a mess. Absolutely not necessary for embossing powder. You will get a perfectly even carpet just dumping it on and shaking it around as long as your adhesive is even. Steve

With my technique, not much of a write up is required. Mask the areas that you don't want covered, brush the glue on the areas that you do, then pour the embossing powder onto the surface. Shake it around to cover the area, and then pour off the excess. Work over a piece of newspaper or the like so that you can save the excess for a later project. Unmask any masked areas before the glue dries to avoid pulling up the glue and powder on the desired finished area. do not handle the parts until the glue has cured completely, and even after, avoid too much handling. Not really much to it. It's one of the fastest and easiest parts of the build process. Steve

I use Elmer's white glue, thinned very slightly with water. Steve

I have not. I've only used the metallic embossing powder. Steve

Thanks folks! This morning I got some color on the floor, rear package shelf, lower door panels and dash pad. It appears that a did a little bit too good of a job of mixing this custom color. I was shooting for a slight contrast between the dash pad and the rest of the dash, but it turned out a bit "slighter" than I was looking for. If you look closely, you can see that the dash pad and the area around the defroster vents and the speaker grille are slightly different. That's how close I managed to mix the custom mixed enamel! There is still some contrast, but it's more in finish than color. The dash pad is dead flat and the rest of the dash is more of a matte finish. Oh well. It'll work. Steve

As a rule, I agree with Alan. A good number of kit radiators look just fine as they are. My suggestions would be to sand off the parting lines, (and don't forget to file in between the ribs. There are mold lines there as well). Add an overflow tube, an aftermarket or scratch made radiator cap, and nix the kit hoses and get some black wire that is the right size for the hoses. I usually will paint the tank a semi gloss black, and sometimes I'll do the core flat black. Other than that, there's really no reason to go much further if you are going for the look of a factory style radiator. Steve

I usually use between 30 or 40 psi with my PS-290. I have not tried it with pressures as low as 20 psi, but my understanding is that a larger volume air supply works better for this higher volume air brush. Steve

Bonneville hardtops and convertibles were produced in 1962. No Grand Prix. Steve

Exactly the same technique as with the wheel arches. Using blue painters tape as a guide. Once you get used to this technique, you'll get perfectly straight edges every time, even if the trim edges are not very defined. Steve

There are really no set times with any of these chemicals. Just check on it every so often to see how it is progressing. When it starts coming off, take it out and scrub it. Re-soak as necessary. Might take an hour, might take a week. Steve

By the way, if you were to order this color from MCW, this is the color that you will get according to their color chips. Much closer to the OP's original photo than the chip sheet. Steve

True, but for the lack of any other green available in '69 that was close, I'm guessing that the OP's photo is "supposed" to be Frost Green. I never expect that these chips are accurate representations of the color in question. They should be used as nothing more than a reference as to what was available. As has been mentioned often on this type of thread, if you google a particular car color, you're going to get 30 different representations. The best that you can do to replicate a color is to use one of the "paint match" services, or an aftermarket model paint provider who will mix the paint from the factory formulas. Even in that situation, if you get examples of this color from MCW and Scale Finishes, you will still very likely get 2 different shades of paint. And even then, a lot of how the color turns out depends a great deal on how the paint is applied. It's nearly impossible to ever get an exact match to a vintage color when nobody is even certain of what it was in the first place. Steve

The only thing that really makes me cringe is when someone butchers the body of a perfectly good vintage kit. Once you have chopped and channeled a body, there is no return. In my opinion, these old kits cry out for us to preserve them in some sense of the word for a possible future restoration from the next generation of modelers. That being said, I don't see any problem with modernizing what is there to start with. I'm a factory stock nut, along with a vintage kit freak, and nothing brings me more pleasure than taking a rare old kit and updating it with modern kit parts to today's standards. The way that I see it, as long as the body and necessary parts to build a stock model are retained, everything else is gravy. A chassis or engine can be changed in the future. A chopped top cannot be un-chopped. There are few rarer examples of a vintage kit than the Johan 1968 Olds 442, yet I had no compunction with completely rebuilding the interior and doing a complete swap of the chassis and engine. I feel that the kit has benefited from the modifications rather than suffered. Steve

Just so you're aware, some primers can be quite resistant to Super Clean. It's great stuff, but it doesn't work for everything. If it doesn't do well with the primer that you used, some 91% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol can work well with primer. Most of all, if buying Super Clean, do yourself a big fat favor and get the real deal. Products like Purple Power and Simple Green are poor substitutes. Steve

Pork chops with blue cheese and smoked almonds with honey roasted carrots. Steve

I'm pretty sure it is Frost Green. If you google "Frost Green" 1969 Chevy you get lots of pictures like this. Not all look exactly the same, but most are very close. Steve

That would be 1969 Chevrolet "Frost Green". Steve

Thanks guys! Sometimes they can be a little too much, but I kind of like "salt and pepper" affect that they produce. Many times, some of these old cars had carpets with some variation in color rather than a monotone look. The metallic embossing powder can help add some of that variation and texture. If the carpet is all one color, it can often be difficult to tell that it has even been done. I suppose it's not exactly correct, but I like the affect. Steve

Thanks fellas!! I've finally started throwing around a little paint. The off white upholstery is Duplicolor "Dover White" and the dash and steering wheel are the body color, "Sunfire Red". The dash pad, rear package shelf, floor and lower door panel will get a custom mix that slightly contrasts the Sunfire Red and then the floor and lower door panels will get some embossing powder that I have that just happens to be perfect for this color scheme. The white upholstery will most likely get a light dusting of pearl as well. Steve