StevenGuthmiller

I've built a few. All with Duplicolor "Universal Black" and Duplicolor clear lacquer. 1960 Mercury Parklane Convertible 1962 Ford Sunliner Convertible 1963 Pontiac Bonneville Hardtop Steve

Thanks guys! The modifications are finished. I think it works better than I had imagined! Steve

Yup, back again! Steve

And that's that. Steve

Just in case anyone was wondering, yes, this configuration is more than strong enough to do the job that it is intended to do. If one hinge will hold the hood in place, 2 will be more than enough strength. Steve

Thanks Carl! Started getting my weird hood hinge configuration worked out today. I started by utilizing the static hinges from the AMT '62 Catalina kit. A plate with pins was installed on the hood itself. The hinges then had a slotted plate added that will quickly slip over the pins and secure the hinges to the hood. Micro magnets were added to the back of the hinge and the firewall making it possible to display the hood in the open position if desired without a prop, or closed by simple removing the hinges. It's a bit of a strange configuration and will require that the hinges be kept loose with the model when the hood is closed, but it will allow me to display it how I would like without making actual working hinges, or cutting slots in the firewall for hinges to fold back into. Just as screw posts under the hood have become something that I can't abide, large hinge slots cut into the firewall have become unsightly features that I really can't get past anymore. Steve

Very cool looking car, and extremely well done! Steve

Just a few "necessities". A new stock pile of paint storage/mixing cups, and enough epoxy to last me a while. Steve

No new posts here since December, so maybe it needs a little bump. I assume that we are all eating at home a bit more now than in months past? Last week I made Coconut Shrimp and Thai Curry Rice one night. Last Sunday night, my wife asked me to make a couple of her favorites. Caesar salad with homemade Caesar dressing, and Pasta Puttanesca. For someone who doesn't like anchovies, she loves these two dishes more than anything! It took a full can of anchovies to prepare them. Steve

You can pin nearly anything if you're tenacious enough. I pinned the Fireball Modelworks door handles on my '68 Olds, and they don't get a lot more minuscule than that. Pinning not only helps make an item stronger, it helps a great deal with attaching the part! It's immensely easier to locate and glue the part without glue slop or the part sliding around on you while you wait for the glue to set. The part can also be inserted and glued from the inside of the body if preferred eliminating any potential glue mess whatsoever. Steve

According to "PaintRef.com" the code for "Tiger Gold" is "O". GM code "WA3770". The closest color from the Plymouth line up in '68 would have been "J" code "Ember Gold". Steve

Oh I don't know about that. Some mirrors from the 50s and 60s were pretty stylish for their time. I could make the same argument about most modern mirrors. Just because their integrated into the body doesn't necessarily add anything style wise to the design. Most are just painted oval blobs. Steve

If we're talking about the best show I ever saw, it was without a doubt the Roger Waters "Wall" tour in 2010! Went to see it again in 2012. Amazing! And actually, the first band I probably ever saw was The Beach Boys at the Minnesota State Fair some time in the 80s. Steve

I'll take whatever you don't want. Steve

I assumed that you were aware, but I thought that just in case, I should bring it to your attention to help soften any "aaaw sh*t" reaction that might be forthcoming. Steve

I usually just shoot straight Alclad "Polished Aluminum" and "Dark Aluminum" on the exhaust systems of my builds, but I usually don't spend a lot of time on the underside of my projects anyway. I do however like to add a little more detail to the exhaust manifolds of my models. I usually do this by spraying a coat of Alclad "Dark Aluminum" over the entire part, followed by a little airbrush shadowing with some Alclad "Exhaust Manifold" around the areas where the manifold attaches to the head and the exhaust pipe. Then I give it a very light dusting from a long distance with a little red oxide primer. Steve

Absolutely Scott! I really have no issues with how anyone prefers to finish their builds. I guess that I just felt that I needed to say something because I just don't feel that the possibility that something might get broken off of a build 10 years from now is much of an excuse not to add it. There may be many other good reasons not to do it, but I don't think that's one of them. Steve

There's a pirate on ebay right now that will sell you and NOS hood for only $39.99 + $4.99 shipping! $45.00 isn't too much to pay for a hood, is it? I've seen this guy's offerings on ebay for some time now. I wouldn't buy a glass of water from him if I was on fire! Perfect example of a total profiteer! Steve

I like the color! Roof color? Steve

First concert that I ever went to was "The Eagles, Hell Freezes Over" tour in 1994. Steve

You do realize that's a '64, correct? Steve

If we are gauging whether or not a mirror should be added to a build or not by the possibility of it getting knocked off at some point, then what's the point of adding hood ornaments, exhaust tips, or wheels for that matter? It's just as easy to knock off a tail light bezel or a fender ornament. It's the nature of the beast that a model is a very fragile thing that must be handled with the utmost care. Radio antennas are another item that are much more easily knocked off than a mirror, but if the model has a radio in the dash, it should have an antenna in my view. I realize that not everyone may be as anal about details as others, but I feel like there are certain things that are necessary to bring a level of realism to the model. Not every tiny detail is necessary or even practical in many cases, but there are the basics that I feel need to be represented. This kind of detail attention is on par with a radiator with no hoses or an engine equipped with an automatic transmission with a stick shift and a clutch pedal in the interior. Things that I feel need addressing. I always add at least one mirror, and in most cases a radio antenna, to every build, even if I have to make my own. Pinning is a relatively easy way to ensure that these items will not be easily knocked off of the model. Granted, it's more work, but it's well worth the effort in my opinion. Likewise, proper storage in some form of protective case and careful handling are a requirement if your finished models are going to remain in top shape for many years to come. This is just my opinion on the matter. Steve

It will. I used the chassis from the '70 Super Bee kit, which is the same as the AMT '68/'69 Plymouth kits, under my MPC '69 Dodge Coronet. Fits very well. Steve

I've always wanted to do a '58 Edsel in "Sunset Coral" and "Charcoal Brown", or "Jonquil Yellow" and "Charcoal Brown". Both are 1957 Ford color combinations, but all colors were available on the '58 Edsel. MCW carries Charcoal Brown in their line-up under the '57 Ford color name, "Silver Mocha". I guess I'll just have to do a '57 Fairlane in one of these combos some day. Steve

That's very common with older kits. There are plenty of newer kits that contain no outside mirrors as well. Just off of the top of my head, the new tool AMT '67 Impala and the AMT '62 Catalina are both without mirrors. I'm certain there are many more that have been produced in the past 25 or 30 years. Steve