StevenGuthmiller

I didn't use gray primer on this one, I used white. I think next time around, I might give it a shot of one of the Duplicolor darker reds before the Sunfire Red to darken it up a bit. Steve

Unfortunately, I never use just one coat of clear for anything. Steve

Okay guys, I appreciate all of your help. My wife reminded me, as some of you have, that if I don't strip and repaint, all that I will do for the next 2 years is piss and moan about how I should have re-painted it! So I ordered another bottle of paint from "Scale Finishes", (just to be safe) and into the pond it went! No turning back now! I guess at this point, if I have nothing else, I do have time. With any luck, the Super Clean won't destroy all of my body work. '64 Grand Prix paint job part 2 coming up. Steve

I appreciate your vote of confidence Gene! My only issue is that I would probably have been taking this build to a couple of shows within the next year or so, and as always, was hoping for perfection. But, I guess that I should know better. There really is no such thing as perfection, at least not with my projects. Steve

Thanks Keith. The foil work is the very least of my worries. I've done that so often that I can do it in my sleep! It is possible to shoot color over the clear, but by the time I shot another coat of color over the clear and then added sufficient clear coats over it again, there would be no definition of detail left whatsoever. I thought about just repainting the hood and masking off for repainting the top and trunk lid only, but decided that the likelihood of a color match would be virtually zero. And as you said, there's really no guarantee that something similar wouldn't happen on the second go around, although I am extremely confident that if I had used the PS-290 air brush, this would not have happened in the first place. As I said, I will not make the same mistake again. I should have known better! The only real options are to leave it as is, or to admit defeat and do a complete strip and repaint. Steve

Thanks Scott! I finished up the clear coats today. I have to say that I'm not entirely happy with the paint job. I used my smaller Badger airbrush for the final color coat because I wanted to open it up to get a wetter coat. My PS-290 does a marvelous job of covering a wide area, but it goes on in lighter coats. Unfortunately, I wound up with some color variation if you look squarely down at the roof, trunk lid and hood, due to the overlap of the passes. This was not evident at all in the color coats until the clear started to go on. I should have given the body another light coat with the PS-290, but I didn't see any issue until clear began to go on. I will not make this mistake again. Anyway, it's not a major problem, but you know how little things like this can bug a guy. The issue is almost completely imperceptible in full sunlight, but if you are looking for it, you can see it in unnatural light. Now the question is, leave it, or completely strip it and start over? I hate to think of starting over. These photos illustrate what I'm talking about. What do you guys think? Bad enough to do over, or good enough to leave alone? Steve

I can understand that. Just giving you a little razzing! Steve

Yes sir. But apparently Asmir agrees with me. His model. Steve

I hadn't noticed that. He's right Asmir. Steve

Thanks everyone! Spent a little time doing some interior stuff this afternoon and will hopefully get one more clear coat on the body tonight. I shoot it right out of the can. The fan spray nozzle on Duplicolor cans spray so well that I really don't believe that I could do a better job with an airbrush. Steve

What he said. Metallic colors are a different matter. Steve

Thanks Sonny! Last night I applied the first coat of Duplicolor clear. Today I foiled and detailed the G/P badges on the front quarters as well as the hood badge, followed by another coat of clear. Over the next 36 hours, I will apply another 2 or 3 coats of clear and then it should be ready to polish and foil. Steve

Very nice!! I especially like that fact that you used some "old school" chrome reverse wheels on it instead of some hokey giant chrome low rider wheels which seems to be the standard these days. Looks like a '55 Chevy instead of some "donk"! Nice work! Steve

As long as you don't have to handle them too much or clean them very often, the Alclad and maybe Molotow, (nobody really knows at this point) will probably hold up okay. But I think it's obvious to all of us that neither of them possess the durability of foil. Alclad has it's place. I use it myself. But it's paint, and not a particularly tough one, so you're always taking a risk with longevity when using it. I don't know about anyone else, but when moving a model around, which is inevitable at some point, I will generally pick them up by the sides of the roof. Personally, I would never use Molotow or Alclad on the drip rail trim of a model for that reason. I suppose it could just be me, but I really shy away from using materials on a project that I won't feel comfortable touching down the road. Just my opinion. Steve

Thank you Carl! Steve

Steve

Fair enough Jesse. I can understand all of that. Steve

Agreed. But it's really no more difficult to learn to use BMF than it is to do all of that masking. Plus the fact that paints like Alclad and especially a product like Molotow are quite fragile and prone to deterioration with time and handling. Who among us does not have, or remember models with painted trim where the trim paint was half wore off after a few years? Alclad and Molotow are very unlikely to fare much better. Steve

Thanks so much fellas! It is a technique that is definitely worth learning Joe. Give it a try sometime. Steve

He's discussing what he might have available for trades. I haven't seen anything even resembling a trade to this point. What's the issue? Steve

I question the validity of the subject altogether. Does entering a model in a show serve no purpose other than just to take home a medal? I surely hope that we as modelers are not that shallow. Likewise, just because the man has written articles in multiple automotive magazines doesn't mean that he knows squat about models or the people that build them. Steve

That's my thought. If you have no interest in using the "best" materials available for your projects, you have pretty much limited yourself to silver paint or Sharpie markers. If you want it to actually look like chrome, foil is the only answer in my opinion. There are a couple of other even more difficult options than foil if you want to go that route. You can use silver leaf, which is much more difficult to work with than foil, or you can mask off all of your trim and spray it with one of any number of "chrome" spray paints, none of which really look like chrome. Either way, you can save yourself a whole bunch of headaches by just learning to work with foil. Steve

Let me know what sort of things you're looking for. Maybe we can work something out. Steve

HA!!!!! Looks like you got most of the good ones! Seriously though, the '65 Plymouth, '60 Ford truck, '65 Olds 88, '60 Buick hard top are all worth more than the price of admission! If you ever decide to shed the '65 Olds, give me a holler! Steve

Bingo! Steve